BtmDweller

Hah I was just looking as well. Check out thatpetplace. $42 for 200 gallon IO purple box and not sure if the FREE75 applies for free shipping.

I’m assuming the Hamilton connections are the same. The price isn’t a big difference to order directly from the Hamilton website. I guess it saves a few bucks, but you’re looking to wire yourself? https://hamiltontechnology.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_108&product_id=177 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you need a free tank I have a basic tank sitting around. Think it’s 30 long if I remember correctly.

Talk to some of the LFS and online such as pacific East Aquaculture. Dr Mac is at many of the meetings and super helpful. If you’re looking for designer clowns, or other fish it’s worth a chat, and save you on shipping.

Have you considered a euro brace? I have a CAD lights tank. I like having the ledge, plus reinforces the tank. My lid fits on the inside of the brace so don’t see it. It’s a good clean look. One more thing recommended is a hood or something to block excess light. My lights hang from the ceiling. I’m going to make a black curtain that hangs down and flip up. I’ve tested it to block out excess lights and the tank looks totally different for the better.

Good luck on that! They’ll probably hold the ones they have, and over harvested like the Aussie gold torches.

One plus side is the advance of more captive bred species, such as the release of captive-bred yellow tangs. Hopefully this continues with more and more. On the conservation side of things we as hobbyists should purchase tank-raised fish and aqua-cultured corals as much as possible. I hope to see not just more tank-raised species but captive-bred. I’ve noticed with sps frags I have lost a few wild fragged corals, but haven’t lost a single frag of things passed around. Adaption to a tank environment does help.

I’ve doubled the sand in my 165 when adding in a diamond goby. Just put in a fee scoops each day until I had as much as I wanted. You could soak in used tank water and then put in if you’re adding a ton. You may want to think about what caused the stuff on the rock. Possibly nutrient reduction, increased water changes, less feeding, blowing out the sump or areas of detritus, etc. RODI quality. Pressure cleaning the rock may only be a temporary fix. If you do remove and get full of tap water, soak in water in a Rubbermaid of used tank water before putting back in.

Is an addiction as I’m sure many members can attest to. I’m over in Manassas and you’re welcome to swing by sometime.

Definitely worth it! Love my lid. They will work with you for whatever you need. Worth a chat if you want small gaps for power cords or anything.

Yellow tang, clowns, lyretail anthias Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The blue tang could have difficulty. Just don’t add a powder blue or powder brown and you’ll likely have no issues over time. I’ve fought off ich without treatment.

I’m a salifert fan. Only check ca and alk, mg once in awhile.

This may not work for you, but I use a diamond bit rotary blade on a dremel to remove encrusting corals and mushrooms. I’ll cut what I want off and the mother colony will heal. In your case it would be hard to get in crevices though.

Depends where you’re located. I have a bunch of large pieces of dry rock, in Manassas. Also slr had some rock under the for sake section you could dry out and use.

Cyano? Chemiclean works well and doesn’t harm anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If there’s any chance you can make it to Manassas or Dulles I have sine free 48” bulbs. Used under a year from another member. Last bulb switch for two systems 48” and 72” with T5/MH Hamilton was a little over the 1 year mark with ATI blue plus/actinic. Definitely a noticeable difference in light intensity when switching the T5bulbs. MH were off when comparing this.

Just wanted to share my experience with preparing my own frozen foods. I’ve been using Reef Frenzy which is excellent. But when feeding anthias a few feedings I’ve seen my nutrients go up. I used to strain the food with RODI water and clean some of the excess waste. Being lazy it got to the point I was just throwing it in. So now I’m using squid (cleaned/prepared calamari), clams (cleaned no stomach waste), and shrimp. Basically what I could find on sale in the frozen section. Cleaning all the full pieces thoroughly with RODI water and dicing into tiny pieces. The food looks much cleaner, the nutrients dropped within days, and the prep/cleanup is easy enough. I’ve heard other people blending etc, but figured it would be more messy.

Sound advice. Small tanks are difficult. Parameters can swing very easily and fast. SPS dont respond well to changes. I’ve personally had no issues with salinity swings as mine swings a lot and don’t track it much. However, ca and alk swings and levels are a critical component requiring dosing at some point. Also, you don’t need to feed your lps. They are photosynthetic. A lot of people spot feed, but this is not a requirement except dendros and a couple others. Also agreed salifert is the standard for a quality test kit.

Ca is a bit low. What’s the alk in dkh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s your alk and ca?

I’ve used b-ionic and now use BRS. It’s pretty easy to mix and use.

I have about 10 inch or so gap behind my tank. Enough to clean behind it. Salt splash has been minimal and easy to wipe. I love the blue/navy blue. The rest of my basement has white walls. It’s a nice accent wall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Call it a bounce hammer and charge 1k per head.

Maybe check the alk against a salifert test kit. Just in case. Also, assuming paras have been stable and no change to flow or light. That’s odd though, especially if you’ve had the coral awhile. If the birds nest is having trouble, likely other acros will as well. If you can convince to diffuse in another room maybe worth the experiment, good luck with that. Still likely not the cause.