BtmDweller

Good point razz. I used quantum reefs. Adam was an excellent service tech. However $100 hr for a single person, and even the smaller projects will take longer than expected. In the past spoke with Capital Aquariums to have work done, they never returned my inquiry. Also, in the past with Adam at Artfully Acrylic. Great work have my lid from them, but a hard time getting either to respond/come out. Not sure of WAMAS rules but maybe you can beg or bribe some people here to come out. If you need someone to move livestock certainly wouldn’t mind lending a free hand. Not good with heavy objects though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many of the major fish stores have something setup. However, they get booked up and usually don’t come out unless it’s a big job, making lots of money. To move the tank would require at a minimum of two very strong men (200+ lbs empty) assuming no stairs etc. If you are able to get a cheap pump and a 100 gallon Rubbermaid you could pump water and move your live stock. Then hire movers to move the tank. Tell them the weight and time required before they arrive and any obstacles. Otherwise speak with the local fish stores. Most are nerds like myself not very big guys and don’t like moving tanks. My opinion as a past employee of a fish store. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha missed the part about bleach. I used bleach and dawn detergent. Have you tried soaking them in vinegar? Or the baking soda idea sounds good. When our dogs got sprayed by a skunk had to use baking soda, dish washing soap and hydrogen peroxide. It’s worth a shot to remove the odor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried bleach? I have 55 gallon drums and originally cleaned with bleach, scrubbed, and rinsed thoroughly. Also, put my filter socks in the washing machine with bleach. Haven’t noticed any bad effects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a fire hazard. Got lucky the first time, any other options? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a fire hazard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been using any of the gel reef glue covering them. It seems to kill and smother them entirely to prevent from spreading. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chaeto would be more dense, less issues if spreading to other parts of tank, and caulerpa can absorb some calcium, from what I remember. also, using the led strip grow lights with mostly red would likely be your best bet. Amazon or ebay usually has a good selection.

For those of you using the flipper or other magnets how does it do around silicone edges? Are you using something different? I have a magnet using on my glass and then scrubbing glass tank edges with a separate pad. Been a pain with coralline. Wondering best way? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because you dosed chemipure and just did your water change you may want to do one smaller treatment to ensure it’s all gone and no mixing of different products in the water. Or after some time switch to a different product. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In response to the above. Here’s the blue BRS resin, turns blue to brown. Should be bright blue. If it’s exposed to air it will deplete as well. I only get the single refillable for that reason. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A pretty fish at that, but potential to eat a lot more corals than an emerald.

I’d leave him alone. you don’t have a ton of waste. Don’t overfeed, keep up on water changes. The fish is swimming and eating and you have hardy fish. Quarantining the fish and treatments usually add more stress. If you had a high waste tank, def be more concerned with the spread of disease. If he gets worse remove him. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve had two larger ones in a 150 clean up all my bubble algae. They also ate two cleaner shrimp. I have two smaller ones which haven’t moved around much compared to the large ones. Unfortunately nothing else is good at going after bubble algae. Please correct me if I’m wrong? I keep them in until the bubble algae is gone and usually able to grab them at night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After reading and all the chem lessons. Test the same time of day or night. Realize it will shift slightly through the day/night. Make small changes, try to get it close to what you desire, realize it won’t be perfect. Think of stability day to day at the same time of testing. Use a quality doser. — my opinions Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had one pick at a stylo. As long as the coral is healthy it shouldn’t harm it. The polyps will retract and the crab will move to something else. Keep an eye out. If for some reason he really likes that particular coral then remove the crab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where are you located? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using mixed bed DI? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Siphon as much as you can with a 50% water change and use chemipure. Stuff is a miracle cure!! LFS or petco should have. What’s your water like? RODI, how many stages and what’s in each stage, changing filters regularly, dosing anything different? What’s the water change frequency?

Great, thanks for the input and great chemistry lesson! Appreciate it. I've switched over to the refillable BRS final stage mixed bed. I'm going to see how it works changing out the silicate buster for two mixed beds

Spectrapure sells the silicate buster as a means to catch the more difficult ions. If I remember correctly silicate is -4 charged. If the resin can only pull a fixed amount, could it actually pull more of the lower charged particles? I wonder if its realistically undetectable change compared with another mixed bed? Thinking of doing two BRS mixed beds instead. I make 300+ when running 3-4 weeks almost 24/7. Rejection is high will need to test exactly. I’m assuming it’s not a membrane issue, and with the volume of water creating will eat up the resin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right when I say prefilter talking about the sediment filter. The .5 micron sediment takes a lot out and those are relatively cheap to replace. I’m thinking if they take a lot that’s a good thing saving the membrane and DI resins while initially stripping more solids out. BRS no longer sells .5 micron sediment filters, Specturepure still has them as the standard. Not sure how much a difference the .5 to 1 micron actually is though? It is a money factor, as for the silicate buster. I can go through one in 3-4 weeks while making water $25-$27 each on top of other filter changes. Also was looking at bulk prefilters sold in 1 micron. I was thinking of using a single bed anion instead of silicate buster and then BRS purple mixed bed. If I’m not mistaken that will focus on phosphate and silicate removal. Am I better using two mixed beds though? Usually single beds would have one each cation and anion followed by mixed bed. Something to think about later, adding an additional stage. Thanks for the input/discussion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a spectra-pure system I’ve been running for awhile. Running pre filter, carbon block, silicate buster, mixed bed DI resin. What’s the thoughts on running the silicate buster filter? What would run in its place? Also using a .5 micro pre-sediment filter, BRS sells 1 micro and 5 micron. Thoughts on difference from .5 to 1? I’ve been super happy with my water. I’m guessing I may not need to use the silicate buster? They don’t last me long and kinda pricey. Currently using BRS replacement pack your own mixed bed DI resin final stage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As far as the phosphates. You could bump up water changes (just a little in your case), use filter sock changed regularly, Check frequency of changing rodi filters, checking tds meter, remove anything that traps detritus. As acros and lps have different requirements. One acro and some lps likely will do okay in your case. However, if you start into more should think more about dosing. Otherwise you could have a tank crash. Conversely improper dosing could be worse. However valuable lessons if you stay in the hobby. Browning corals etc could be an indication of a light issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been using the BRS mix yourself. It has worked great in my SPS tank. Used to only use bionic. Not dosing Mg, or just so little no auto dosing? Just wondering since my Mg has been high, but my corals are mini colonies at this point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk