BtmDweller

Just cautious a tank packed with rock and especially a sand bed will be a detritus collector raising nitrates and phosphates. I like the look of a sand bed in my display, but personally wouldn't do it on an attached tank. Even on a display it can be difficult to keep pretty.

Sounds similar to what I had done. I ran a 185 into a 100 gallon rubbermaid, and back into the sump. I also had a 80 gallon frag tank plumbed into the rubbermaid. My focus was on a low nutrient system overkill on water volume which looked great in it's prime. I originally planned to stack the rubbermaid with rock but used marine pure blocks instead because I could get more flow through them. I also have a strong powerhead in the 100 gallon rubbermaid, and powerheads in the sump. I had two collection points with filter socks. All of the flow was to prevent detritus buildup and push into socks. I did have to be cautious on flooding and tuning in the event of power outage.

They are nocturnal and will come out into the open at night. I've had luck using a flashlight and net, easily scooping them up.

I'm at the meeting if you need to grab something?

I'm over at the meeting with a setup tank and forgot my power supply for my Kessil A360 light. Anyone heading over to the meeting today that has one who wouldn't mind lending during the meeting? Happy to throw frags.

When you moved did you keep some of the cycled water? Years ago working at a LFS we always moved tanks with at least 50% of the water to keep paras stable. I mix my sand bed up every now and again, even to the point of cloud out. However, I keep super low nutrients. Sorry to hear!

It may have been my fault. I set the the DOS on a high setting so they were spinning really fast. The versas are pretty quiet and I run from 12am-6am at a continuous slow rate.

I just started using Versa pumps with AWC of about five gallons day. Pumps are actually becoming available again. I used DOS, had heads leaks and pop off on fast settings. One thing to consider is water from any issues, such as a leaky head. So three heads over four years. Also, keep in mind lines should be changed out, as they can get clogged. Additionally, Calibration isn't always 100% over time, especially over long runs. Water level and salinity should be checked routinely. It's easy to let things go with automation, until it becomes a problem which maybe difficult to reverse and $$$ in livestock.

Glad to see it worked out. They have good prices. I’ve had the same issue as above. Most fish arrived healthy and no issues. Just one time had an issue. Owner wasn’t pleasure to talk with.

Yup Adam is good people. Also saw a local news link that people were getting his business mixed up with another. So hopefully all that gets sorted out. I’m excited to see what he does with the store! https://www.nbcwashington.com/news/local/wrong-fish-store-reviews-for-virginia-business-tank-amid-controversy-mistaken-identity/2915701/?amp

Yeah cash or friends and family on PayPal. Otherwise they get a nice statement end of the year to add to taxes.

Really depends what you’re looking for. If you’re looking for super high end hard to find stuff you may want to hit early the first day. VIP passes allow access on Friday though, and many vendors sold at the Orlando show. Also, the common stuff should be there. As for myself I have a list of a few corals I’ve been tracking down in hoping to get a better deal on. If you buy three or more frags from a vendor you can ask for a package price (shoot for 20-30%) or even more likely pick another frag out and ask for it as a freebie. This usually works well. If you want equipment (especially tanks) vendors coming a long distance won’t want to lug equipment back. Usually people will make offers on displays and other equipment. Hitting the last day leftovers they will want to sell as much as possible. Good chance to pick up cheap hardware the vendors may have only purchased for the show. There’s a map of vendors on the RAP webpage. So worthwhile to plan who you want to see. Also worth checking the vendor webpages comparing prices etc. you can usually judge prices by comparing vendor to vendor on common corals. Some are higher then others and some have much harder to find frags.

We think our systems are sterile. But when adding corals and whatnot there's a ton of biodiversity. If you think on the microscopic level of what can actually be on frags, even after dipping. I used dry rock in my system and tank water from an old system for cycling. If you're worried about adding anything else you could get a couple cups of live sand stir it up and dump in the cloud of stuff keeping the sand out of the tank. You have plenty of rock and plenty of surface area for beneficial bacteria. Im anti-additives only cause I've seen them do more harm then good. I've also seen alot of people with concerns their tanks are too clean. Ive strived to keep my tank clean. The only issue I had is dealing with cyano. A few scoops of chemiclean and no issues. Some of the best tanks I've seen had small bioloads, and large water changes. I've never been concerned my tank was too clean, and had fantastic coloration on acros. Why enrich a food as the enriched powder will add unwanted nutrients? I think the better option is mysis. It's like dipping a snickers bar into protein powder vs eating a steak. I also feed raw shrimp. I rinse all food thoroughly and feed small portions at a time. Yeah correct alk varies in natural water. Sometimes I forget things ?But I've had good luck at 8.5

Stop putting anything in except alk and when you need ca. Use salifert test kits. Eliminate all factors. Could it be a salt higher in ca? I like conditions closer to natural 8.5 and 420 to keep a variety of corals. When I stray away from this I've noticed bleaching in more sensitive corals. Brought it back and no issues. Partly the swing, but some was over longer period. I try to be very very strict on not swinging. As much as I can be. I will swing to get it back on point though. I guess I'm a hypocrite. I bleach my socks and have three of the largest marine pure blocks for over three years. With that said every system is different. I run an extra rinse cycle and let them dry. I'd double up on the water changing. If possible the goal of 50% total volume a month through multiple changes. Get anal on nutrients. Don't feed brine shrimp unless teaching a fish to eat frozen. It has no nutritional value, it's candy. Mysis is great. Rinse the food with rodi. Only a few corals actually need to be fed. Probably not in your tank. Try preventing detritus build up in sump low flow areas in stacked rock. What's the rodi? I keep 0 TDS when making water. Change filters regularly including the membrane about 1.5 year mark. Many people forget the membrane. One major issue I did have was redoing flooring polyurethane seeped from upstairs into the system. Didnt think it would even happen. Got to the point could only see an inch into the tank. Got in the mixing station also. Major water changes and swings for months. Corals lived, lost some color and and a couple fish but bounced back. These are things I believe in. Others have luck doing things differently. If you take any recommendations find a tank you like and follow what they're doing. And scientists are pretty smart as well.

Drop the ca and raise alk. Using a doser is also key. Stop dosing everything except alk, ca as needed. Need close to perfect stable numbers on two paras. The nonsense mixes and additives will cause havoc with swings in your tank. Adding in many variables. Try limit phosphates through cleaner feeding. Rinsing frozen in rodi water etc.