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astroboy

WAMAS Member
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    322
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About astroboy

  • Rank
    Reefer
  • Birthday 11/29/1955

Custom Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vienna, VA
  • Interests
    My hobbies are those of John Cleese of Monty Python:
    Sloth and Gluttony.

Recent Profile Visitors

385 profile views
  1. I was going to buy shrimp today for my fish/corals but I'll get clams instead!
  2. I bought four hydor koralia evolution 1500 powerbeads for my 90 gallon reef tank and while I've been pleased with the improvement, over 4 maxi jet 1200s, some of my LPS are not as open as they used to be. I had to move the contents of the tank recently when my old 90 sprung a leak, I had the corals and fish in a 75 where I fed everything very very sparingly for two months. As a result, a lot of the corals (elegance, hammer, frogspawn) lost a good deal of their mass. I realize it will take them a while to bounce back. However, I suspect the current is too much since the LPS in the corners have opened up a good deal more than the ones more exposed to flow. None of the powerbeads is aimed directly at the corals..... I have a Red Sea Wavemaster randomizing the flow. Does anyone have any insights in the difference between reef vs. fish only settings, and/or the gentle/rolling/turbulent settings? I've read the blurb the manufacturer puts out a few times but it's a bit vague. The hydor powerbeads are rated at 1500 gph, assuming they're off half the time for a 90 gallon tank that's 30X turnover per hour, ignoring the return pump from the sump which I estimate at 300 gph. Is that too much for LPS? I realize this is sort of a unanswerable question, in the end, all that matter is how the corals look, but as I said, I'm not sure of the difference between marine and reef modes and I was wondering if anyone has any insights. Thanks, Mark
  3. Thank Scott, this is just what I needed! Mark
  4. My experience with expired test kits in general, including Salifert, is that they give a *much* lower NO3 reading than what the reality, like 25-50% less, I suspect depending on how long past the expiration date you're using it. Not really sure about other measurements....
  5. After Bob Fenner's good talk last week I decided to dig up my old UV sterilizer and use it again on my 90 gallon setup. I was wondering, what is a reasonable flow thru a UV sterilizer? Mine is 24 inches long with a 24 watt blub. Anyone have a ballpark figure on a good GPH rate? Thanks!
  6. HI Tom, From the drip tube I'm getting 3ppm; I seem to dimly recall that when I first got the RODI system it was 1... Anyway, I'll monitor it and if it starts to increase I'll know it's time to replace the filters and media, Thanks, Mark
  7. I'm getting a reading of 9 ppm TDS for my RODI water. Just wondering, is this reasonable for Fairfax county water or is it time to switch out the media? Thanks!
  8. I should have said I used bleach, not beach. It did some good, I'm wondering if there might be a better way...
  9. I bought a couple of 58 gallon barrels on ebay for mixing and storing water. They're food grade and the insides are spotless. However, they contained yellow Greek peppers, whatever those are, and the smell is pretty strong. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations on how to get the smell out? I filled them with water and put in a gallon of beach, waited for a week, and that helped but I wonder if there's a better way. Thanks, Mark
  10. Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'll have to break down eventually and get a new lighting system. I don't have the space to put in a strip of LED lights outside the fixture and inside is obviously too hot.
  11. I don't have picks,but it's an old style fixture: the MH bulbs are in an a sheet metal housing, the bottom is clear plastic. I'd like to put the LED strips on the reflective surface on the top interior, but it gets pretty hot there, even with fans.
  12. Does anyone have any experience in putting LED (actinic) strip lights into an MH fixture. I got a flexible LED strip and ended up attaching to a wood panel which I fastened to the top of the MH fixture. The wood started to char in pretty short order so that's one idea that doesn't work. The main question I have, does anyone know of an LED fixture that will stand the heat within an MH fixture? Thanks, Mark
  13. Perhaps I should be more specific. I'm going to buy strip of LED lights and wrap them around a BRS charcoal canister; inside I'll have the cheato or calaupera. I think about 300 gallons per hour will flow through the canister. I said calaupera, but perhaps cheat would be better? Any advice would be appreciated greatly.
  14. I'm setting up a new tank. The live rock from the old one has been in a holding tank for a couple of months and is covered with all sorts of algae. I can move the fish and corals to another temporary tank. I'd like to get rid of as much as the algae as possible and I'm not sure scrubbing will do the job. Does anyone know of an algicide that would work well? I'll be moving the rocks to a new tank with brand new water... Thanks, Mark
  15. Does anyone have a handful or two of calaupera they'd be willing to part with? I live in Vienna, Thanks, Mark
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