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  2. You don't want to add 2 part to your ATO, you'd want to use kalkwasser in your ATO. I've personally never gone that route, but I'm a firm believer of KISS. Keep It Simple (stupid), or the more PC version Keep It Stupidly Simple. I use ESV B-ionic 2 part because it counts for magnesium while it doses for alk/calk. So long as you use the correct ratio, there are a lots of ways to dose to keep things stable. There are a ton of different dosers out there that can help accomplish this, from the BRS ones all the way to, well, there's a lot of options. The big take away here is stability, and a doser can help you with that.
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  5. can’t dose 2 part in ato, you can with kalkwasser though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Fixed. I’m a dumb-dumb and fat fingered it. Also, would you recommend discontinuing the manual dosing and adding 2-part to my ATO? I’ve always been worried about it dosing too much or too little. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. No. That's great for you. You've probably been keeping things very stable and put a lot of time and care into doing so. Maybe you started with some really great cultured live rock. Maybe you've gotten SPS that has been continually fragged and passed around the club that can take a beating. Maybe you've just been lucky. When I first started in this hobby, everybody told me I couldn't keep a RBTA because my tank was only 3 months old. The first thing I did was go out and get 5 anemones. Then I propagated them, and they were fine. I was also keeping SPS fine, but had my fair share of losses after I thought "everything is doing fine." The hard and fast of it is, there is no hard and fast. Younger tanks are going to have more issues, there is no rush/cure/snake oil to mature a tank other than time. And I don't think anybody said the reason you can't grow SPS is because your tank is young. Your Alk has been going through some pretty wild swings. And you had a huge salinity spike. Get your alkalinity stable, the SPS will thank you.
  8. I had similar trouble with sps around the 8 month mark. I think the higher alk in a low nutrient newer system is very likely an issue. I’ve had much better luck at 7.5dkh. Also when you say dosing when needed, I assume you are dosing by hand? Find the daily required amount and dose on a daily schedule, not just “when needed”. Stability is key, and avoid alk swings. I’d also get rid of the phosban and other aggressive nutrient reduction. I’ve had nothing but trouble with uln in a newer system (dinos, pale corals, ect). I’d just stick with Skimmer and refugium. Let the tank mature and only add more nutrient reduction when you have nutrients to reduce. LFS water is also a potential unknown. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I was told that Alk on the higher end would help grow SPS but lower Alk would help coloration? Which is why I’ve kept it on the higher end up to this point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. - Just carbon, no GFO. - I’m usually testing twice a week - I just assumed it was flatworms from the symptoms the tank was showing, and not changing anything as far as water,temp,feeding,dosing is concerned. Although I did add more phosban to the recommended levels over time. This is really all I’ve been tracking on a constant basis. I’ve tried not to chase numbers, just make sure everything is in the within the recommended levels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Burned tips due to high alkalinity. Let it drop to 8 and keep it that way.
  12. And ditch the api test kits. They are horrible. Get you some salifert or red sea for the major things. And I dont think the test strips are doing you much good either
  13. Again my opinion. I'm a firm believer in keeping things as simple as possible. I think you have way to many things going on. Coral needs food to survive. Which includes po4 and no3 imo. Not just reef roids etc. Your running phosban, gfo etc which is typically used if your having an issue with something in your tank like high po4 as an example. I think you should very slowly lower your alk to say 8 if your going to run a uln system and maybe cut back a little on using so many different things unless you genuinely have a reason to be using all of it. The water your using from the lfs, is it fresh made by them? Maybe increase to two water changes a month.
  14. I don't care what you get, but can I book a session with you?????? My reef need some good photos.
  15. I was using Salifert for Phosphate but I’m out and haven’t tested in about a week but the readings were almost unnoticeable after running the phosphate reactor. I use API test strips for the rest of the other parameters (aside from what I stated in the OP) I was under the assumption that Acro and other SPS liked ULN systems, and like I said, everything else in the tanknis doing great. [emoji2371] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Just a comment, but can we please stop with the "your tank is too young for sps" for every issue that comes up? I literally put sps in my tank from month one and they are growing quite well. It COULD be a problem but not everyone has the same problem. Again, just want to make an observation from experience.
  17. No, I can’t see where this is going, which is why I’m here to learn... Everything in the tank was doing amazing, and still is minus the Acro (which was growing for a while). My other SPS is still growing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. What are you testing po4 and no3 with and what are the results?
  19. 7 months old Reef builder Reef advantage Acro power Phosban Gfo Carbon Reef roid Phyto feast Oyster feast One 20% percent water change a month with water from a lfs? Do you see where this is going? Just my opinion, this is insane. Entirely to much going on here to even begin to start the process of elimination. I definitely agree with the above statement if you have 0 po4 and no3 you could certainly be burning the tips.
  20. You think I should discontinue the reactor for now? Or go longer without water changes? at the moment I only have to clean the glass maybe every three days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Maxspect R420R 160W w/ upgraded lenses I haven’t changed the photoperiod that I can think of though. 1: 0800 W:0 B:1 2. 1000 W:30 B:70 3. 1100 W:60 B:80 4. 1600 W:70 B:90 5. 1900 W:40 B:100 6. 2100 W:0 B:1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Based on your description, you are most likely at low or ultra low nutrients. Alk may be too high for a low nutrient system.
  23. I’m guessing you have several issues going on. By the looks of it you have burnt tips from tips from high ALK and dying from the base which could be New tank syndrome, not enough flow, or a combination of both. What light are u running over the tank?
  24. And what was a JF Fox Flame :/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Don’t think I can get much better than that. Turned the blues all the way down and used AquariCam. Also turned off flow. I’ve removed the couple of Frags that already looked 100% dead but there wasn’t much to show there other then the white skeleton [emoji47] Whit I find interesting is how quickly Coralline too over that one with the yellow arrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. Sorry, I can't make heads or tails of that photo!
  27. Tips down. Best pic I could get. You and see Coralline has already encrusted almost the entire part of one Acropora Skeleton, in like two weeks, if that. (Red arrow) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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