BtmDweller

It was brand new. Initial calibration worked, calibrating in solution. I think it just needs constant calibration. The instructions say monthy or when high accuracy is needed.

Also I'm assuming that they all are off a little bit. I dont mind a slight variation or salinity swing within reason. This was just not even close.

Good points, one thing I do know is when I'm using the plastic hydrometer and not so recetly calibrated refratometer I'm getting the same numbers (for years) and corals are happy. But that defeats the purpose to have an easy dip and test. I have cleaned the Hanna well with fresh water after each use. Just hoped it would hold calibration longer. Awhile back did away with a Hanna Ca tester as well, and stick with salifert test kits.

Hey peoples, just wanted to share a recent issue I faced. For starters I have used one of the cheap $10 Instant Ocean hydrometers for years (20+). I have no idea how these can be near accurate, but it's worked for me. I've been pleased to know it's cheap, easy, and has been reliable. Reliable for me is any fluctuation within 1.021-1.024. I have an apex, but could never get the salinity probe to calibrate, and have a hard time trusting it (calibrated several times with no success). Maybe it's my tank, who knows. Anyways, I started using a Hanna battery operated hydrometer just cause. I've checked salinity for about two months following calibration, and during calibration checked against the instant ocean cheap $10 "dump in the tank plastic awesomeness" as well as a "hey I want to be a scientist" refractometer. For the past couple months, the Hanna tester gave the same reading 30ppt/1.022-23 which was cool, until it wasn't. Yes I could have calibrated it more often (I'm a lazy reefer, plus full time Master's student/work/housing projects). For the past few weeks I noticed some corals fade, including a 3 year old colony. Initial thought ca/alk was off, checked more closely and adjusted slightly. A little better, but still not great, so pull out the $10 hydrometer and my salinity was sitting at 1.016. Again I'm not anal with salinity, but crap! So now what? Add a bunch of salt, but then the para swing a bit more (a lot more!) than I anticipated. So what next? Stop dosing, until it settles and hope for the best. So far damage control minimal, lost a harder to keep acro mini colony, and a chalice isn't looking its best (not bad for 150+ frags and corals). Maybe there's something in my tank throwing off calibration to the apex probe and Hanna, likely. Just wanted to share the experience in the event it's helpful.

The large box traps seem to work its easier to get them in. If they don't eat more a challenge, but if they stay with other fish may follow them in. Im pretty far from you.

Do you need to borrow a fish trap? Not sure of location, but I have a large one.

I've heard others put them on it's on rock if you have a sandbed. They don't like to travel through the sand, although they can.

Fish traps work well. Just make sure to enough fishing line and you can sit back and wait. Also, tricky fish may take a couple days or more until they go in.

Also they don't have a long lifespan. Usually six months maybe 12 max.

I use a file to remove remnants of coral encrusted to rocks when I've removed a colony to allow other corals to grow. You could file down the encrusted part. With them so close together it will be needed to be done pretty frequently. Also, i usually need to chip off some of the rock and could lose some rock if you did it often.

I think Capital has them. Not sure if their naughty behavior has been bred out of them. But at least they would be used to a confined environment and agreesion within a closed system. Still have an issue of transitioning from a large group of divided agression to just a few.

I lost two other females when a third started transitioning over as well. Hopefully the captive bred ones coming out now will be more docile over time.

If they finish off the aiptasia its a good idea to feed permint shrimp at night preventing them from starving/dying off.

Depending on fish types. Most fish swim in relation to the reef. Sticking closer to the rock for food/protection. Other larger fish such as tangs pick at the rocks and swim in large schools a little above the reef. Many anthias will be found in the water column feeding. They are sensitive to lights so certain ones have more difficulties in aquariums. So you may see them hiding. The lyretails that are becoming tank bred are a good option for looking for a fish that will be off the rockwork. So long answer, but its more so relation to how close they are to the rockwork versus the water column. In your case closing it down to inches they would likely stay closer to the rock/corals if only a couple inches to the surface. Depending on fish type though. For example chromis and other fearless fish would move up the column closer to the surface.

Sweet!

I use a power head in each chamber to blow out detritus. They’re attached to a power strip and turned on a few times a week. You may need to beef up your skimmer if you’re getting protein buildup on the water surface. Also use of a filter sock can help.

Well if you’re doing a mixed reef start with the easier corals and gradually add. If you’ve kept duncans and hammers see how the do a little bit after cycling. The worst thing to do is rush and add everything. Maintaining long term stability is necessary. As mentioned for sps and a lot of lps water conditions become more important. Ca/Alk maintenance is key, quality rodi and water changes are also. It could be okay day one, but months later everything could crash. Also low bio loads makes things easier. If you are new to certain corals recommend to be environmentally responsible and find corals that are aquaculture versus taken from the wild. The ones mentioned are commonly aquacultured which you’ll see other members selling cheap or LFS carrying from companies like ORA and biota. What we do does have an impact on the ocean.

Good starter sps is stylophora, birds nest, branching Monti digitata. For lps duncans, acans, and hammers. All common, pretty, and inexpensive.

Gotta find out what’s causing it. Usually water quality, over feeding, need for more water changes, detritus build up. Emerald crabs are a short term solution if you can drive down nutrients it’ll go away also.

Actually misread that. Stuck on. That’s not good. I’m also worried about temp probes. Haven’t had any issues, but thinking long term.

I also know someone who lost half of his sps using a separated temp controller that got stuck on. The failures on the apex I wonder if it were to tripping the breaker? Too much plugged into the power bar. I’ve done that when not paying attention. Especially when some of the equipment may be off and turn on together at certain points. Or was it a different situation? I have trouble trusting technology as well. But I’m running a chiller and two heaters. Chiller covers issue of over heating. If apex shuts down both heaters, I don’t think the temp change will be that drastic and I could catch in time.

Just wondering what heaters everyone is using and recommendations. I have two 500 watt finnex one primary and one backup connected to an apex. However, now my tank has been approaching 3 years replacing some equipment just in case. Total system volume is approximately 350 gallons.

I use a mag pump and the last one did leak, I put it under pressure though. Gravity feed up to 150 gallons for long term periods. This new mag pump has been holding for over a year. Also, don't remember which part, but I had to use pipe dope to get it to seal. I could maybe have avoided that.

I’ve been running two WAVs for over two years. Haven’t touched them. No noise, tiny bit of humming at high levels. If a snail touches the pump it vibrates loudly. Other than that no issue. I’ve seen the reviews. Picked mine up used. Hopefully you can send them back.

Haha yeah. Yup rotting olives and all!! Sounds like you cleaned yours well and riser the heck out of them. Mine had no issues at all, but yeah I think a faint smell. But very very faint.