Steve175

Pretty sure I saw that on a Twilight zone episode. . . not sure what it is, but it would be gone from my tank. . . Agree with a dip ASAP. . .

+1 for T5/LED combo. I run T5 Actinics with MH and absolutely love them. Run LED on Frag tank with great growth. The combo would be awesome.

Like Tom, I have multiple checkers and chemical tests. I only routinely test for Alk and much prefer Salifert for ease of use, reproducibility, and speed/reliability over Hanna. Having said that, I have not used ITS's Exact Dip [gonna check it out/Thanks Tom]

Agree with above: would have taken out the aggressor. Don't put the beat up one back in without removing the bully. Unless it is a big tank, it might be best to regime one of them.

Wow! Lovin’ the story. Keep it comin’. . .

Definite nope

(. . . Waiting to see that guy posted as a mobile 100 polyp colony in the FS forum. . .)

Also would assume risk of chipping/cracking would be higher without water. I have always used water. Have never had a problem other than with super cheap/thin glass tanks.

Benign. Does not look like hair algae to me. Leave it, let your tank mature, and have a beer.

+2

I have a similarly large filtration room: make sure you can both control the temp in the room and that it is well ventilated. Best IMO to vent in from house and vent out to outside. Floor drain if you can swing it. Sink. Enough dedicated circuits. $0.02

I wouldn't replace LR: I would get chemistry under control. Your po4 and nitrate are low only because the bryopsis. Agree with carbon and gfo reactors and elevating Mg with Kent Tech M. Frequent water exchange. Feed less food. Spend $$$ you would have spent on LR on upgrading the skimmer. $0.02

+1 for PMing NAGA: he has built 5 high quality tanks for me in the past

That sucks, man. Very sorry. A controller is a nice protection for this: not only will it monitor and alert temp, but will not activate the socket unless the temp is low. I use 2 sockets with 6 heaters in a big system. A temp spike would require both the controller and the heater to simultaneously fail and each heater is too small to raise the system temp much. And I would get and email and text. And the heater socket is programs to default to off. If you are moving soon, it might be a blessing. Moving a healthy tank is stressful both to you and the fish/coral - and also sometimes on a relationship when you should be doing other things for the move besides obsessing on the tank. If it were me, I would clean everything up and just use the time to cycle the rock so you are ready to hit the ground running after you move. Once you are up and running and stable, hit some of us up for some frags (I got hooked up when I had a salinity crash and would like to pay it forward). If you love the hobby, don't let a crash chase you out: we have all had them. . . well, except for Oragami

Not sure about adding more food/fish if the algae is bothering you. Cyano is typically a flow issue IME: I'd add a powerhead. You lost 2 of the most sensitive SPS: not a particularly good barometer of tank health/succes. I have killed a lot of SPS over the years with cold or mismatched water: would match temp and salinity carefully, add to sump, and avoid single large exchanges. I have my mixup tank rigged into my system and fed off a manifold with the return pump (then drains back into my sump). I can take this offline, dump to drain, refill and mix, and then open the manifold only partway so the new SW mixes into the system relatively slowly. Also have exactly match emergency water always available for the inevitable F up when I need to add water urgently into the system. $0.02

I nuke Mojanos and Aptaisia and pull out the occasional bubble algae. The rest I simple enjoy as a season in my reef. Random invert flares are one of the best part IMO/IME.

LMAO I too have always dumped in a frozen shrimp and enjoyed watching it rot. A single piece of LR or a cup of live sand can help ensure the right bacterial mixture. Post your location and we'll see if anyone is close by to donate a cup of sand.

I read the thread and then went out and gave my reeflos a loving pat

Not sure I would add an ATS given already low po4 and no3: if that were in my tank, I would increase flow and get both a sand sifter and an urchin (latter can really clean and maintain rock IME). $0.02.

I have used salt that I first had to break with a hammer with no clear change in Alk, Ca, Mg

very cool Are the banded coral shrimp reef safe?

I have 2 50" (360 deep) display tanks and run 400W x 2 MH (radion) and T5 54 x4 on each tank and have always absolutely loved them. Coral growth and color are phenomenal. I run mostly actinics as T5s

PM sent

I'd love to see an update also. The schools of fish remind me of the reefs in Tahiti. awesome

PM Monkiboy at ERC. He may be able to help. . .