Steve175

Gotta always beat Origami to a thread to add a comment because I will never be able to add anything once he has analyzed a reef problem Strong work! Would also adjust the flu all return towards the surface (I resuscitated mine and use it for surface agitation in my 220G fuge which has too little clearance above it to easily maintain power heads).

Just to add: the Damsal's are aggressive little son of a guns and you may later regret adding him: for that reason alone (in addition to allowing Ich parasites to die off), I would consider returning him if possible (even for free). It would be way easier to trap him out now that after having a tank full of corals

Did things settle out? BTW, I have never run a system free of Ich. But also, with a healthy system, the fish have never been affected. This is probably heretical speak, but if I were in your situation I would do nothing for a while. As reinterated above, slow way down and let things settle. Meaning don't add a single new thing for a month or so. . .

I'd suggest having a beer and not testing anymore until tank fully cycled. And then never specifically attempting to manipulate pH directly with buffers. There is very good article sticky at the top the new-to-hobby forum worth reading on normal range for parameters and how to respond if outside range.

I have been running 2 liter meters for 8 years. I replace the $9 tubing head every year or so.

For SPS goals I too would use 250MH x2 with T5 or LED just for actinics

I wouldn't particularly treat or remove it. Benign and slow growing IME

As above: increase flow - esp flow towards surface.

My sons want to add a CUC - for a bit of variety - to our tanks which I would prefer to order on line. I have used reeftopia, iPad, and garf in the past. Anywhere else folks can suggest?

If it was easy, it wouldn't be fun. . .

"What you do not know, is that I am not left handed. . ."

For the record, I ran 3 reeflo on my prior tank and 7 reeflo on my current tank and have only needed to replace 3 seals over the past 10 years. I lost tanks to both Mags and Eheims in the past. The nice thing about reeflo, unlike a Mag (of which I have owned 10-15 over the years) in which the impellor freezes, the reeflo develops of slow and progressive leak but continues to pump its heart out (and keep your tank alive). If you can plumb externally, use a reeflo - ideally in a small trough - and thank me later.

Go with the snapper and don't worry about the pump again for 5 years (or plan on cleaning the impellor on the Mag in 6 months) - your choice. If a bit too much flow, can always run a manifold off the return to feed reactors, etc.

I had 3 mantis hitchhike in on Tampa rock: big tank/couldn't remove rock. I was forced to harpoon with a chopstick (after losing multiple fish to the suckers, it wasn't a particularly sad event).

Spectrapure Liter meter: not cheap but reliably flawless reliability.

$40. Downtown DC.

The reef at the Museum of Natural History is worth a visit (and well tolerated by the non-reef junkies in the family as well)

A gentle sand on the pipe may help a bit. Purple primer followed by regular all purpose glue has always worked well for me with never a leak (26 bulkheads in current system).

Sorry man. Sucks. Yet another MP casualty (I have had several)

Would likely be expensive food. You may need to decide whether you want a reef (with inverts) or a FOWLR.

You will like the glass holes overflow: good call.

He's not gonna be able to clean the calcium carbonate build up: let him eat every 6 months then soak it overnight.

Not sure I agree with either statement: I have had a condy host a pair of maroons. Also, I have a condy with 4 separate RBTAs doing well. I agree that the Condy is cheap: why not wait it out. In a reasonable sized tank they'll be fine.

LMAO!!! The mullet send the pic over the top

Take it out and soak it overnight in either vinegar or dilute muriatic acid (latter in paint area at Lowe's)