Steve175

I agree with above: return to 2 separate high flow sections of sump (e.g. calcium right next to return and alkalinity within te waterfall into the las sump section.

As per our recent speaker (Matt Wandell), the blue spot is less tolerant to higher tank temps: if you tank runs 7& or less annual then go it, if not get another Pearly.

As a doc, I feel compelled to call BS for the last 2 replys. True, perhaps, if you drank RODI water and NOTHING else. Otherwise, no.

I do believe in variability in fish personalities. I had a blue, a purple, and a yellow in a 250 to which I added an Achilles. The blue was (and has always been) a model citizen. The purple was relentless on the Achilles until I caught the purple and put him in time out in the sump for a month. Without interval aquascaping (but with the addition of several corals), all were good when I added him back. Tangs are pretty easy to catch with a rod, a barbless hook, and some krill IME (unlike the lemon angel that is terrorizing my SPS in my other tank).

I would push it up rather than pull it up. You can simply run an extension cord from your EB8 (assuming you have a free socket) to the basement for a lot less $$$ "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

I also would maximize the sump size (biggest you can fit) and think a Mag 5 in-sump would serve you well. Have a sump chamber followed by baffles and then a return chamber (where the pump sits) as depicted on Melev's site. If you have a big enough sump, you can add a small chamber for a refugium between the sump chamber (where water drains into from tank) and the baffles (which block micro bubbles). You probably should invest in a better skimmer: it is the heart of the system. Look at the Avast skimmers (a sponsor here who makes reasonably priced, great skimmers) and size your skimmer section around the footprint. I would buy a skimmer rated for a minimum of 100G (if you can afford it and fit it, buy an even bigger skimmer as I suspect we'll see a thread from you in ~ a year looking for a larger tank [as we all have done] and it will be nice to not have to also upgrade skimmers.

Am thinking of rigging one to the back of my scuba gear.

Plumbing it to main system will both add to the stability of your main system and will also decrease significantly on maintenance (2 sets of water changes, 2 sets of calcium/alk monitoring/replacement, etc., etc., etc).

This is why I keep the Hanna meters: if I get a random Salifert or Red Seas reading (rare), I repeat and confirm repeat with Hanna. Tom: I am not sure why I've had issues with reproducibility with the Hanna meters either. I have a biochemistry background/am pretty comfortable with chemical testing; have always been neurotic with cleaning and wiping the vials as well as rinsing with RO only. With any new test, I routinely do 3 tests in a row acutely, and have always found unacceptable (response relevant) variability w/ the Hanna meters.

Very, very, very cool.

I own the Hanna meter for Alk and calcium but never use them: PIA and not very reproducible IME. I have gone back to Salifert for both and couldn't be happier. A reefing buddy uses Red Seas for Alk/Ca (they have a reefing package that includes Mg as well) and loves it. I suspect it is just as good as their test for phophate and nitratre (both more sensitive for lower range) are my go-to (I also have Hanna meters for low range phosphate and phosphorous gathering dust).

I agree: looks like Ich. I would not treat that, but instead focus on getting him to eat. You will find local live brine which is irritable. Mysis is better nutrition (even more irresistable and can be ordered via live aquaria from Florida [Any local vendors with a source?]) I have had fish develop Ich over the years and with good nutrition and low stress, it will pass. IMO, in-tank treatment is vodoo as, if the fish lives, it will recover from the acute infectious phase regardless (to those research types out there, the lack of a control arm makes the [potentially harmful] placebo seem effective as our wonderful speaker pointed out). "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

Two algae clips each with a half sheet can help make sure he continues to eat. I would be ready with an in-tank acclimator (ideally for the PBT) if it get nasty. As above, likely will settle out within a week or so. I've got a PBT, Achilles, Yellow, and a Purple in a 250: thought the PBT (biggest) was going to need a time out the first few days after I added the Achilles, but they worker out their differences after about a week. "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

Crazy! (Absolutely love the smile pic) "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

I would consider using a couple of pieces of rock rubble and some epoxy to create a little trough in front of it both to keep it from falling and make it happier (has always worked well for my clams). I would not force the foot loose. "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

Rob: I am not tracking you here either. (Unless he wants to do you the favor of taking it off your hands.)

I would look also at the dart gold. I have found bothing resembling the reliability of reeflo external pumps.

(We all would love to see you upgrade. Rumors of your corals was one of the reasons I originally sought out and joined WAMAS.)

I agree: another great meeting. Thanks to the powers that be. "How did 1500G of saltwater cost THAT much?"

Air pump in an ATS?

Haven't I seen this thread before about downdraft vs needlewheel. twice? twrice? Better take my aspirin in case its me.

There is a great thread on ATS stickied to the top of the "Advanced" forum at RC (took me ~4h to get through the whole thing). I considered setting one up (mostly because I like the challenge of builiding stuff like this) but haven't needed it: with GFO, RDSB, reasonable feeding, and an oversized skimmer, my phosphate is 0.0 and no algae. I would not hesitate to set one up if I needed more export.

Matt: Echotech has a pretty good website: click on support and fill out the repair form. You then print that form and enclose in a box and write the RMA number from the form on the outside of the box and ship it to them. They will call you usually within 24h of receipt and, even if not under warranty or was caused by water damage, can fix it for much cheaper even than a used replacement. They are in PA so shipping to/from is pretty fast. Even if you do get a used replacemebt one, repair your old one and sell it for a proft even after the repair costs.

The corralline and the residual aragonite sand will dissolve with the muriatic. Will then require simply a wipe rather than any scrubbing. Can buy it by the gallon in the paint section at Lowe's

I'd be interested as well in joining a group buy if you are able to work something out.