rioreef

Here is a good reference on Advanced Aquarist from Julian Sprung. Taking a look at the skeletons shown, the edges of the Indophyllia look more rounded over compared to the Scolymia. The Scolymia skeleton looks more funnel shaped with sharper edging. Also, it looks like the ridges on a Cynarina are more pronounce and farther apart too. I got a Scolymia vitiensis from F&F in the early spring and it has old exposed growth like yours, but the coral is flatter.

If the power were to go out, the sump is in a position to receive the water from all three tanks to the level of siphon breaks in each. Can it handle this?

I was going through the website in the previous post and they have some neat stuff. Here is multi-fan power port for up to six fans running off the same plug (in parallel). No splicing of wires as the 3 pin plugs from the case fans plug into it and get one of their AC/DC converters to handle your load. Great way to put in fans if you are not confortable doing your own wiring. I would make sure this device is away from moisture though.

From a Spectrapure manual: "The pressure gauge is used to monitor the condition of the Sediment and Carbon Pre-Filters (not the RO Membrane). When the filters are new, the gauge will indicate the actual available water pressure. As the filters collect particulates, the pressure will begin to drop. A 15-20% drop in pressure would indicate that the pre-filters are in need of replacement." This means, put the gauge between the sediment/carbon prefilters and the RO membrane. I have picked one up at Lowes before also.

No brainer. Run the AC and have a good trip so you do not have to worry about things.

What I like about bulk reef supply is they sell not only sodium bicarbonate, but soda ash. With the ash, you do not have to bake the stuff to drive off the CO2. Also, I can get everything at one place and not search everywhere for products at different locations. But, to each their own, right.

At a quick glance it looks like a shot of a nebula from the Hubble Telescope

If you reinstall that baffle at an angle it would help to eliminate the 'waterfall' effect and no bubbles. If not, since this will be the fuge section, putting macro algae in this area will help in diffusing the bubbles too.

When adding the additional water, do it when the power is off and put in the section where the pump is. Since you say the amount of flow into the sump when power is cut only affects this chamber (with the baffle in the current position and size). So if you add a few inches more of water at this time it should relate to an equal amount of water level height in this chamber when the pump is turned on. Seems logical you could do this when the pump is on, but if for some reason it does not, you wont have to worry about having added too much water. Place it safe.

The trick is to put the silicone in place first. 1. I dry fitted all the baffles in place and when they were positioned where I wanted them I used a dry erase marker and marked the outside of the sump for a reference. Also, the two baffles that lead into the section where the return pump are at an angle to help eliminate any 'waterfall' effect (to reduce noise and bubbles). 2. I then removed the baffles and turned the sump over to draw a line across the bottom connecting the side lines. 3. Now to secure: I did the middle one that is raised up first (with a temporary support and then held in place with tape till secure. 4. Move to an outer one. I put a bead of silicone on the bottom in place where it would sit and along the sides with a little extra on these beads. Use the dry erase lines as your placement guides. 5. Take one baffle and at an small angle place in on the bottom in the bead of silicone, now gently rotate the top of the baffle up into position. This will allow for the glass pane to slide through the silicone getting it between the baffle and the sump sides for better sealing. 6. Now add more silicone to the outside edges of the baffle and smoooth. 7. To finish and reach in the tight space between baffles, I took a wooden dowel to which I rounded the end and used this to slightly work the silicone bead to my liking (any device that can fit in there with a rounded edges can work). You can use this tool to put more silicone on the end of it to put in place if needed. 8. Tape in place to hold till dry. 9. Repeat until all baffles are complete. Make sure the silicone is completely smooth at the top and sides of the baffles that form the return pump section. If not, this could lead to disrupting the water flow along the edges resulting in bubbles in this section. Hope this helps.

There are two of these threads. I have posted in both. First you should know how much water will be coming down into the sump. Then use the heal loss calculator from reefcentral to calculate the info for a specific pump using your return plumbing info. Also, what I did is put a tee on the return and have a portion go into the fuge (the only feed for the fuge). This pipe going into the fuge has a valve on it that I can control the flow. I also have valves on the drain and the return above the sump, these are full unions. The one above the pump is always wide open and the drain and the fuge ones are used to control the balance between the drain/returns. This way I also reduce any backpressure on the pump. Pics from my initial tank setup and dry fittings as to show what I mean.. Drain and one of the returns. Mag 12 with full union (wide open always. used to close off water draining back down into sump when cleaning sump chambers.) Tee into refugium

First you should know how much water will be coming down into the sump. Then use the heal loss calculator from reefcentral to calculate the info for a specific pump using your return plumbing info. Also, what I did is put a tee on the return and have a portion go into the fuge (the only feed for the fuge). This pipe going into the fuge has a valve on it that I can control the flow. I also have valves on the drain and the return above the sump, these are full unions. The one above the pump is always wide open and the drain and the fuge ones are used to control the balance between the drain/returns. This way I also reduce any backpressure on the pump. Pics from my initial tank setup and dry fittings as to show what I mean.. Drain and one of the returns. Mag 12 with full union (wide open always. used to close off water draining back down into sump when cleaning sump chambers.) Tee into refugium

Insignificant to worry about. Hundreds of gallons per hour will be flowing through the baffles. It is not even a leak that you will not even be able to detect unless it is above the next level. I say secure them in place and finish the sump. I never worried about that nor did a water test after I put in my glass baffles. Hopefully, you had the bottom corners of the baffles that come in contact with the sump bottom cut back at a 45 degree angle about a 1/4 inch. This is an allowance for the silicone that is in place of the tank you are using as a sump. By doing this the baffle edge can sit all the way down on the bottom of the sump and goes to provide a better seal. Otherwise, the baffle will sit on the sumps silicone bead and will already be up off the bottom and will require more silicone and the chance for a 'leak'.

Off Broadlands Blvd, near St. Theresa's Church.

10 minutes...F&F is less than 2 minutes from my house

Do you have a check valve on that waste line? Since it is connected to the drain you do not want any backup into your ro lines.

That is hard to see. I have lost colonies all at one also, it is a tough pill to swallow. Hang in there.

www.reefgeek.com also carries all sizes of the T5's.

How about these from US Plastics...not arm length but will protect you If not they have many latex versions. Mailite™ Stainless Steel Mesh Gloves Constructed of high tensile strength, corrosion-resistant stainless steel rings. Each ring is individually welded for maximum strength and flexibility, providing the highest level of protection against cut, slash and laceration hazards in cutting operations. Tapered glove fingers, glove bodies contoured to the shape of the hand. Stainless steel rings resist process fats and oils and are easily cleaned. Straps are made from anti-microbial polypropylene fibers that inhibit the growth of a wide range of bacterial and fungal micro-organisms. Applications: meat processing, knife and blade sharpening and cleaning, animal control, law enforcement and rescue operations, fast food and restaurant operations, sheet metal work and tinsmithing, fishing trades. I have seen some folks talk about disposable veterinary gloves that are arm length. Think of the protection they want.

4641 SUDLEY RD, CATHARPIN VA 20143 Not far from Manassas Battlefield

Regarding the siphon hole. I put mine in the loc line that is connected to a 45 degree elbow and the exit of the loc line is several inches below the surface. This siphon hole is just below the normal water level and will cause a break after some water has gone back down the return lines into the sump. This way the break hole is below the water and during normal operations no sound comes from it. Just remember to keep it clean and make it parallel with the water surface. Otherwise if on the top side and it is close to the surface you will get a fountain.

There is a LPS identification forum on ReefCentral. Check it out and post a question with your pics.

Open a window if you have not near the tank. Getting outside air will help. Perform water changes. Topoff water will generally have a neutral pH unless you add something to increase the pH. Over time this could cause a slow drop off too.

Add two more bulbs and overdrive all with either Icecap 660 and 430 ballasts or just four with the 660. I do just four on my 90g and have not had a problem anywhere in the tank.

Happy Birthday. The proud parent showing off their baby pics. Nice tank.