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For the Tunze NanoStreams, only the 6055 is controllable. That is why there is such a big price jump from the 6045 to the 6055.

Several factors will determine how much of the tank will drain into the sump. The water from the overflow will drain to the sump until the drain intake becomes exposed to air and/or the siphon is broken (overflows have their water level lower than the tank, hence the name). On the returns, if they are below the water level during normal operations, the water will siphon back down until the return opening is exposed to air and the siphon is broken here. Since the drain/overflow will generally be the first to break the siphon you should not get as much as the returns and it may not even be noticeable. I get a rush of air down the drain pipe into the sump when it breaks the siphon. To minimize the returns siphon, drill a hole (say 1/8") in the return pipe below the normal level of the water. At an angle on the side to minimize any water exiting the hole and going above the water surface during normal operations. This hole will allow air in when the tank water level drops to this point and breaks the siphon, allowing less water to drain back down. You do not want this hole to close to the surface or may suck air and then you have a micro bubble issue. Keep the drilled hole clean of debris or algae to it works when you need it. This hole can prevent a lot of water from siphoning back into the sump.

Absolute disaster if the power goes out. Fix it now or you will be sorry.

All T5 lighting also.

Check out this system in Portugal. Amazing propagation.

Sterling Glass on Cascades Pky http://www.sterlingglass.net/

On the pieces that will sit on the bottom, have the two bottom corners cut a a 45 degree angle, about a quarter on an inch from the corner. This will allow for room of the silicone of the tank and the baffle will be able to sit on the bottom without a huge gap to fill with silicone.

If it going through the lid, how about a bulkhead fitting?

I don't have either, but here are some bits of info on the RKE. It sounds like the Intellastrip technology is pre-defined on its overload protection. The ACIII may be able to perform similar functions through programming, not sure even if it has abililty to monitor plug overloading. Paraphrased info from Digital Aquatics on their Intellastrip Technology (4 head plug unit - two of these come with the RKE): IntellaStrip technology enables the PC4 to monitor the total current that the module is supplying to the devices connected to it and make decisions based on that information. Each PC4 has a total limit of 15 amps (1800W). Channels 1 and 4 are mechanical relays and have a limit of 8 amps; while channels 2 and 3 are a solid state switch with a limit of 3 amps. The PC4 powers the entire system; IntellaStrip technology will help prevent a system wide failure if the breaker were to trip do to a single failed device. This helps ensure uninterrupted power to the rest of the system. Because there are different limits for the two types of channels, (CH 1 & 4 have a 8 amp limit each, while 2 & 3 have a 3 amp limit each,) IntellaStrip will attempt to ensure these limits are not exceeded. By monitoring the differential in current when a channel is turned on or off , the PC4 can determine if a single channel is exceeding its limit. In that case the PC4 will go into an override state and report a fault. The PC4 has capability to manually control each plug on/off individually on the unit itself, not just through programming. Also, the NET module provides: Current system data and channel status over the internet with alerts to your email, cell phone, or PDA. You can get on going status on your system from the RSS feed from the NET module too. A USB interface for additional hardware (not sold by Digital Aquatics) for wireless communications to your computer and monitoring (not controlling devices). I am sure there are other differences, but these stand out to me. Always a toss up.

Oh if it were that easy. Thanks for the boost.

After about 12 years in my systems my Green Brittle Star died. It had grown to about 15 inches across and was always a hit for the kids at feeding time and the 'monster' came speeding out to get some food. The last few years it was banished to my sump. Age and more sluggish may have been his demise as the pump feed for the skimmer got him. So long Green Monster. (BTW, happened before my controller got zapped as describe in another post)

While doing some maintenance on my system I reached for the interface of my Reefkeeper II controller and a static discharge went from me to the unit. Well, everything plugged into the unit turned off and the display was blank. I unplugged everything and the RKII, turned it back on and still nothing. I do get a click in the device that has the 8 plugs and about a second later a second click. It is in this time that anything plugged in will turn on then off. I am sending it to Digital Aquatics for repair and I am now back to timers and manually controlling some devices. So, in this low humidity time of year I just wanted to remind anyone to ground yourself before touching any aquarium equipment. Lapse on my part may cost me a lot.

The Spectrapure Litermeter III can handle your needs. From the Spectrapure web site: "The pump's planetary direct drive is at an 11:1 ratio, thus providing enough torque to generate over 40 pounds of pressure. This incredible lift enables the LiterMeter III

Couldn't they market fixtures as for freshwater systems, as the patent specifically states MARINE. Theirs no law as to the type of bulbs you could put over a freshwater system? The LEDs would be that what we desire for marine systems, just the packaging states for freshwater use. Just a random no law experience thought.

Watching the video reminded me of this

From the front shot it still looks high enough for the light to be seen by a kid.

Like the setup, but did you think of this?... When I see open light fixtures I think of the little ones. I don't know how old your kids are but if they are small this picture illustrates what they can see from their perspective. With a metal halide, have you thought of any health concern and strain/damage to the eyes?

No I am not going to the event. As far as the moonlight, I cut a piece of eggcrate with four squares and cut out the centers and was left with one large square and laid it on the glass center support. I then just put the moonlight on top of that. I talked to Chris from IceCap and he said it would be fine in this configuration, so close to the glass. In reality it should have two in order to cover the entire tank, but one is fine for me and the tank now. If you decide to do the DIY fans, just PM me if you need help.

The CF bulb I have provides plenty of light. The Cheato that is at the bottom gets no direct and it is fine.

I have a green serpent that was banned to the sump after taking out some small fish. One got thing with a serpent, if a fish does die and is in a area where you can not get it out, it will consume it all. Only white bones left.

You can get a couple of 12v computer case fans, a 12v wall plug (from say an old cell phone), correctly sized wire, and connectors. Cut the wire from the plug to expose the wires first. Then add additional wiring to each fan connecting to the plug wire at the same point. This way the fans are wired in parallel and not series, this is important. Parallel and the fans draw the same amount of power from the transformer, in series, the second one draws from the power supplied to the first fan. Now you can mount to your hood. Remember to secure the wires with wire nuts and heat shrink the connection with rubber tubing or use electrical tape. I have an open back setup like yours and 6x T5's and I just secured the fans with two screws with rubber washers into the wood support running along the back of the hood (what the hinges are screwed into). I put them in near the ends and blow air into the hood and it swirls around and the air exits out the middle back, I can feel the heat coming out. Also, with the fans at the ends, they are easy to service and clean. Not a close up, but you can see them in the corner. The size of the 12v transformer plug needs to be able to handle at least or more amps than what the fans do. Speed of the fan and noise are a factor, so research to get fans that have a high cfm and low dB level. Sounds like a lot, but it is easy and very cheap to do. Here is link to the ones I use. Into my fourth year with them. Stealth fans BTW, cpu fans can have three wires - black, red, and yellow. The black and red are for power and the yellow is for temperature control. You can remove the yellow, it is not needed unless you get a little more fancy. My fans are controlled through my Reefkeeper controller, they are turned on with the lights and turned off 15 minutes after the lights go off to dissipate any heat left.

Although not very colorful (silver blue and black), but interesting pattern is the Larmark's Angelfish with its stripes and dots. As it ages the lyretail gets more pronounced. Totally reefsafe and can handle its own. Eats anything (not corals or clams) and is cheap too.

On my 90g with a Mag 12 return pump I have a OceansMotions 2-way Squirt. One of the outlets goes through the return that is in the overflow, the other I just us PVC up the back of the tank and over with locline at the end to position the flow. The tank is against a wall with no visibility to the back so I do not see any of the PVC (nor in the tank). The outlets are pointing to opposite corners and I get great alternating flow.

Enjoy looking at a tank with no corals or fish for awhile (months). BE PATIENT. Feed the tank with some food for the bacteria and you can have some cleanup crew in there also. But, again my advice is resist the urge. Wait til Spring to start adding the fish and corals and do it slow. Your tank will thank you in the long run. Based on my own experience, but if you don't you will be battling hair and slime algae.