rioreef

Scott, Always good to see a new member from Ashburn on the boards. If you have not yet, go to Fins and Feathers in the Broadlands Shopping Center and talk to Sean to see if he can help. On you second tank, I see you have power compacts with clams listed in it. I have done a clam with PC's but they must be high up in the rock work and it can be a slow death. With your other tank having the MH, I would move them there to ensure good health.

Good advice to have at least two GFCI's. Also, it is a good idea to run off different house circuits. I have learned to have a family member watch things and to call every few days to get a status from them. I write down what to do and what not to do, including checking GFCI plugs. Always a good idea to provide the name a fellow reefer or one of the vendors here that do in home servicing.

easy place to put a UV sterilizer unit in line with the plumbing of a closed loop.

Doug, can you edit your post so people know what of your's is taken and by whom. Thanks.

Doug, I will take the following: free blue tipped stag free heliopora 1 red milli ($5) 1 tyree cyphastrea ($10) I have some zoas for ya also. I will PM you with a pic later this evening. Chris

Johnny, how about a Grand re-Opening Party when fully operational????

Yes, that is what I am talking about. I had extras and I looked for the one that had the appropriate amps and used that. Most PC fans operate on 12v.

I have the autotopoff.com dual float switch and it has performed flawless over several years now.

My PC fans do not run off a PC power supply. I use a single 12vdc transformer plug and spliced the wiring from the fans. Fans are wired in parallel, meaning the wires from the 12vdc supply is spliced to both fans at the same location. As long as the amps on the 12vdc is more than the total amps of all the fans you are ok and have only one plug. Running is series (each fan is wired off the previous fan) will decrease power to each fan after the first, not what you want to do. I also have connectors after the splice going the the fans. This way I can disconnect one and leave the other running. PC fans can have three wires, usually red, black, and yellow. Ignore the yellow. Lots of threads on Reefcentral on this and I am sure many here have done the same thing. BTW, with my fans blowing into the canopy, the fans do not get salt creep on them or moisture (I do have glass tops over the tanks but do not cover the entire tank, back 2 inches is open). I just clean the fans off of accumulated dust every few months. I have been using the same two fans that cost me $15 total four years ago.

Those are PC fans with the wiring having disconnects and are wired in parallel (not in series).

I have an Oceanic top and I added a piece of sealed wood at each end for the retro to mount into. The wires go over the top and out of the way of the reflectors. They then come out the back zip tied together down to the ballasts under the tank in the stand. The fans (two) are mounted with two screws at the top of the fans and blow inward at each back side of the top. The air circulates and is expelled out the middle back of the top using the movement of the air and the natural tendency of the warm air to rise (will easily follow this path described). This way I can get cooler air being push into the canopy via two fans instead of one and having the other one pull out the air.

Get it out now is all I can say.

Welcome. As was said. Join the club, it is worth every penny.

Submitter: Chris, rioreef Location: my 90g mixed reef Camera Used: Nikon D300 Subject: Trachyphyllia geoffroyi

Skimmer question: Does a tight fitting cover over the collection cup have any affect on the quantity or size of bubbles in the riser and collection cup? Just wondering.

I have 6xT5 on my 90g at 18in front to back and it takes all the space using retro units. With 24in to work with, 8x would be good coverage. However, you could go with 6x and overdrive all six with IceCap ballasts. Spread these out across the 24in and in between you could put some actinic VHO's or LEDs moonlights to mix it up. At ReefGeek, TEK retrofits can be substituted with IceCaps ballasts. Worth the extra money in the output you get. No problems then with clams on the bottom.

I know Tropicorium in Michigan, ran by **** Perrin, who is a pioneer in this hobby has grown alot and sell these. Between him and his son (Ray) they have over 60 years experience in this hobby, they can probably give you some good advice. Here is the company's phone 734-782-2622. Retail and Wholesale Mon-Sat - 11a.m. - 5p.m. Sun - 12p.m. - 5p.m

I have stored water for a month, but I run it through a aquaclear power with a carbon filter on it before making a water change.

Submitter: Chris R (rioreef) Location: 90g Oceanic - mixed reef Camera Used: Canon Powershot Subject: Euphyllia Torch Coral

When getting the glass cut, along the edges that will sit on the bottom, be sure to get a 45 degree miter off these bottom corners. The reason is a 90 degree will sit on the silicone seal of the bottom of the tank and your glass pane will sit about 1/8 to a 1/4 inch above the bottom of the tank. This will require a lot of silicone to then seal that baffle. Get it mitered and the glass pane will sit on the bottom for a better fit and the corner is not cutting into the seal. Measure the silicone and determing how much of a mitre. Probably 1/4 will do it. BTW Sterling glass will to it, this is where I got mine done.

I have the autotopoff.com device with two float switches that control a solenoid. I have a second solenoid that I need to install that will be on a separate timer and circuit ahead of this setup as another safety measure. What I currently have is on a timer that is on for 15 min twice a day. More than enough time to handle the top off. Been running this for more than three years now.

If it is taking a waste product such as used cooking oil, it sounds great but as Bob put it, there isn't enough to go around to make a dent. Any alternative fuel that takes plants that would otherwise go into food production is a bad idea. Taking your commodity that is your food and divert that into a fuel for combustion will only drive the price of food up (as we have seen) and decrease your supply to areas of the world that need it to live. On a small scale this is cool project, but cannot meet the real demands out there or come close. Good Luck.

You mentioned the float switch is plugged directly into the AC Jr. Is this directly? What is the float switch controlling, a solenoid? You mentioned it did not turn off, are you refering to a solenoid? Just looking for info.