DFR

I’m partial to BRS units mostly because of modularity, ease of use, and relative cost. Depending on the your planned usage, aquarium size, and budget, I would recommend different course of actions. I do however believe the 5-stage units are a good general place to start and can be modified later to add more canisters if needed. For efficiency I’d also recommended their dual RO membrane as that cuts waste water in half. Your water quality report is somewhat easier to follow than WSSC’s. My big take away was that they don’t use chloramines as a disinfectant. That being said, you can use regular carbon blocks. I have been using 5 micron pre-filters without any issues and change them out based on color (which is well before any noticeable pressure drops). I also change out my carbon blocks at this time so again it’s well before they are depleted. I’ve never tested my source water but I suspect it’s pretty low TDS as my DI resin seems to last forever.

Hi, and welcome!!! Vendors as well as a number of members will be selling on-site. There will also be a number of posts on the sale forum where you can arrange pick-up at the meeting.

Congrats and nice equipment list. I noticed you’re leaning towards Red Sea on a number of equipments. If you are planning on utilizing them primarily, they are coming out with a gyre style powerheads soon (if not already available). One alteration I would make to your list is testing equipment. I would only suggest Hanna for alkalinity and possibly phosphate as the calcium is a little too involved. Salifert makes decent (precision good enough for our needs) kits That are reasonably priced. The Reefer 200XL will also include the usual gravity-fed ATO system which can be more reliable than some ATOs on the market. I however don’t have personal experience with Aqua Duette, but that is an extra expense that can be avoided. As for controllers, I’m also in the camp of must get, even if only for monitoring of the system. I sure everyone here would suggest an Apex but after my experiences, I would go with GHL. The ProFilux Mini that goes $240 and would include basic monitoring and controls.

Looks nice, and doesn’t look like anything was bothered by the move!

+1 I wouldn’t worry too much about the returns either. I see it as just a way to get the filtered water back to the display. I never run my returns at 100% either. My return currently is at about 2.5x turn over and changes slightly after water changes to get the level exactly where it previously was (which I’d like to think helps keep my salinity more stable).

Haha I just had to pull out my measuring tape to better visualize this. A 40” stand with 18” aquarium would produce a similar effect as my 31” stand with 24” tank does to me (as I’m 5’6”). From a distance and while sitting, the viewable panes will be at the perfect height. Standing maybe a foot or two away you’ll still be able to see through the glass panes but at an angle so you’ll see the tank again from a nice perspective (this is how I usually view mine). If you approach the tank you will still be able to look down and get some nice top-down views. At that height you definitely wouldn’t have to worry about equipment or plumbing constraints either. Theres a Home Depot in Hyattsville so just grab some 2x2s or some pvc and mock up your plans. It always looks different when there is something tangible vs looking at it on paper or in your head (or at least it does with me).

Sounds like you are prepared for major renovation of that room/area. If you are, the end product would be worth it. I like everyone’s ideas but one thing to add is the electrical. Check the breaker box to see if there is any space for additions. If there is that’ll help out a lot as you can put the tank on it’s own dedicated breaker(s). Also, before proceeding, is the wall the tank going “into“ load bearing? I would guess it isn’t based on the pics but double check as it would add a bit more planning if it is.

Hey Tony! I’ve heard many reasons for them losing their bubbles (including light, flow, feeding) but I’m not sure anyone really knows. I’ve had one keep it’s bubbles a few years under practically no flow (flow provided by canister filter), with a 2 bulb T5s fixture and weekly feedings.

Just for reference, how much RODI water do get before they start to leak. I don’t run a booster pump as I’ve always been borderline on psi. I’ve been considering one lately as I’m starting to acquire equipment for a larger build and I’m sure I’d see efficiency boosts and time savings with one.

Looks nice, I like the conch shell!

Welcome to the group (and the reefing hobby)!!! It’s completely normal to feel like that, but I guarantee after getting water flowing through your system and start adding corals you’ll start feeling a little better. If you have any questions, you’re definitely at the right spot as there’s a wealth of knowledge and friendly individuals lurking around here also.

Looking forward to this build. Sweet stocking list, and nice planning and use of space with that stand! Cube tanks always takes planning to maximize the available space for the dimensions. With dosing, anything with a CaCO3 skeleton will use ‘Alk’ and ‘Cal’ in equal ratio. The differences between corals will be seen in the consumption rate of both compounds at that same ratio. I do however get what you mean about manual corrections. Dosing pumps make adjustments of a single compound much easier.

Haha, I’ll have to check out DC Homebrewers (probably closer to me). I think we’re overdue for a full tank shot. Plus it’s indoor projects season, any new plans for the build?

Nice job, I look forward to seeing the progress

Welcome to the group! Also, the build thread is a nice spot to document your progress. Good luck on the journey

Hope he gets better, but if an article you wrote says they have a 10 years lifespan it must be true

I see where you’re going with this but in all honesty, (if what I am picturing is correct) powerheads will be a better bet. It’s just that if you’re going to start running piping throughout the interior of the tank, you’ll be better off with a couple powerheads in the same spacing. Those pre-drilled holes can be used exclusively as returns from the sump. But advice for your current plan would be to not cement the intake pipes that will be inside the tank. That way you will be able to direction the intake to where it is best suited to reduce stagnant areas (both intake and return will essentially produce water movement).

Is that supposed to be appendage? What is this in relation to?

I have to echo Milton on this. Closed loops are less efficient than powerheads and will require substantial plumbing, drilling of numerous holes in the tank, and a fair amount of space for the pumps and plumbing leading to them (which all comes with their own set of problems). My advice would be to use LOTS of unions and ball valves, and use loc-lines to provide a little flexibility on return flow direction. To keeping everything tidy and keep plumbing hidden, utilize the back and bottom panels of the tank whenever possible as the rock work will be able to hide the bulkheads/strainers.

Welcome back, and welcome to the group! Nice setup, looking forward to seeing the build.

I’d personally also remove and reseal the interior. Better to do it now before water and other inhabitants enter the tank than possibly after it is filled. I’ve used the silicone sold by BRS (both the clear and black) with zero issues. You will be fine using your finger to smooth it evenly into the corners after application or you can use a “caulk finishing tool” for a more uniform finish. When undertaking this task, try to do it in a well ventilated area because there will be a strong vinegar-like aroma.

If you do decide to put one together, they’re actually pretty easy and all the parts can be obtained from your local home improvement store (especially if your tank has a frame)

Check out Clearview Lids. They are pricey, but pretty customizable and sleek.

I’ve purchased 1/2” for my set-up from Action Glass in Beltsville MD. Their prices are pretty competitive and Brian seems to have an affinity for tank builds so he’ll probably work with you. Since they don’t keep the thicker panes in house, you will have to wait some time for them to get it in and cut to your specific dimensions. There was also a shop somewhere near Dulles that I did consider but went with Action Glass because of convenience. (Plus after going in and actually speaking with Brian, I felt comfortable supporting them)

Yea there’s tons of these builds out there. Here’s a pretty simple one I found doing a quick google search. https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/249145-aio-20l-zoanthid-garden/ This second link, though it has a more professional look will require more specialized tools. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aio-20l-diy-build.79473/ Also these aren’t tutorials per say but it should give you an idea of how you can build one.