DFR

If maintaining the temperature is your main concern, I would look at a chiller. Our aquarium heaters are more designed to achieve a specific temperature but “generally” would have a couple degrees temperature drift. Chillers are more designed to maintain a desired temperature. The downside to them are: they use more energy, have higher initial purchase cost, and would affect ambient temperature. The plus side is is an extremely stable temperature all year round with only 1 device (as opposed to fan in summer and heater in winter).

Nice looking setup, did you end up supporting it from the ceiling also?

No, that is actually pretty good. However, if you started with dry rock just be careful because if cyano takes hold in your system it’ll be a pain to get rid of as it does well in lower nutrient systems.

Thought I posted already :/ . But aside from the obvious reaction due to organisms in the tank, it is also possibly dry skin as you work with water. I worked in a cosmetic lab for about 6-7 years where my hands were in water for a large portion of the day. My hands felt similar (but I don’t know if I would refer to it as ant bites) near the end of the day to when I was home. I started lathering it with thicker petroleum based lotions and that seemed to keep it at bay. Since you’ll be placing your hands in aquariums that contain corals, I’d just recommend wearing gloves.

I think I read somewhere that melanarus wrasses and other halichores would eat them. The only problem is that they’ll likely go after your other inverts as well. If manageable, your best method may be to continue with manual removal.

Welcome to WAMAS!!!

I’ve done it on a couple previous tanks (softies and fish only) for the same reason and the part I hated the most was the increased maintenance due to salt creep. Also if you don’t keep up with wiping the underside of the glass (where the condensation accumulate), you could get a permanently cloud burnt into the glass.

Well that is weird. I’m starting to lean toward your theory also.

Your ICP results seem adequate for both fish and inverts. Also, at 7-8 months (assuming this is post cycle) your tank should be pretty stable. I’d definitely check the nutrient levels. If they are all within a decent range, it may be where you got the fish from. If I’m not mistaken, fish collected using cyanide could exhibit a healthy behavior for a period of time then seemingly die for no reason. I’d check for redness around gills as that could also be a sign of issues. Hope this helps!

Providing no other adverse signs are observed, I would definitely say the issues lie in the testing. Make sure you are using the correct reagents for the correct tests. If possible double check results with another kit.