DFR

Hey! I haven’t seen any either, but if they’re anything like the MP10s and MP40s, the flow of MP60s are pretty wide. Are you trying to further widen the flow, or close it off a little to prevent things from getting in?

Ouch that must have hurt. I’ve had pretty good luck with Tripp Lite surge protectors, and they’re reasonably priced for the protection they provide. What type of battery back-up were you considering? I have given the computer UPS some thought, but I always table the idea due to the size and short runtimes.

Looks like you are off to a good start in terms of equipment and stocking. I’ll repeat what others have already said, you should test your alkalinity, calcium, nitrate and phosphate (assuming your salinity is stable) before blindly making adjustments. However, from the sound of things, you don’t currently have a demanding load your elements since you only have a handful of frags in a 130g. This being said, I doubt your calcium would be a cause for the coral bleaching/fading. Right now regular water changes would be the easiest, and since you’re not testing, the best way to keep things stable. I’m also not familiar with the Nicrew lights, but having them both set to a max of 30% is a pretty low intensity. This would only be a total of 90w over a 4-foot tank, which is equivalent to about 2 T5 bulbs. Shy of knowing your par levels or how everything is set-up, I’d say increase your lights to >60% to help reduce loss. There could be a number of reasons for fish loss. What do you feed, and how often do you feed?

Welcome to WAMAS, glad to have you aboard!

I would think it’s getting adjusted to your system (which is still settling). Just keep an eye on it for further shrinkage and keep us posted. If anything, just get your phosphate down to less than 0.1 (this would assist with your algae). Other members may chime in with other suggestions.

Your levels all look fine with the exception of your phosphate which is a little on the high side. This could be the cause of the hair algae. In relation to your coral, I would not expect a negative impact with those parameters. Additionally, the photo shows polyps, it looks decently inflated, and is upright (not slumping over), so I wouldn’t be overly concerned about the coral. How long has it been in your system, and how long has your system been running?

Thank you for the response! Good luck and I look forward to working with you.

Welcome to WAMAS! Good luck with your entry into the hobby, and as mentioned above, feel free to post questions as they arise.

Welcome back! Do you have a storefront or website to share with those wanting to support you?

Yes, they are always a nice read. It could provide inspiration to others, and even help with issues some may be experiencing at the time. PLUS you will have the added benefit of having everything in one thread to help you track the progression along your journey.

Yes, silicone is probably best as I don’t think they sell that plate. Good luck!

Nice! You should also consider starting a build thread. That’s a great place to document progress

Both are pretty similar. One thing I do however prefer about WB is the wall that separates the back chambers from the display is actually glass. I believe this is the only mass produced manufacturer that does this.

You probably remedied this already, but if not, I’ve had great success with KZ’s CyanoClean on the red cyano variety (when I had the green one, it kinda worked itself out). It is supposedly a bacterial blend that aggressively outcompetes the cyano. It took about a week before any visible changes could be observed, but after that, there were noticeable daily reductions. Good luck!

Sweet, IM does make some nice tanks. We are debating between the EXT 170 and the 200. The stands were the selling point and what ultimately diverted us from WB and RS. Keep us posted following delivery! I’d be curious to know your thoughts and comparisons between IM and your RS.

Did you get this fixed? Swapping the o-ring seals will usually fix your original problem. As for the broken nut (if I understand the part correctly), you’ll have to buy the particular tailpipe assembly as the nut is not sold separately. It’ll probably be best to search Red Sea’s website (under support) for the exact part, then enter the part number on Amazon. The other option would be going through one of their dealers (could also be found on the website).

Welcome to WAMAS! Looking forward to seeing your tanks fill out

0.3C (about 0.5F) during winter 0.7C (about 1.3F) during summer

Just to add to the data set… I set up a 10g for my cousin maybe 2 years ago that runs exclusively on tap water for top-offs (and 0 water changes). I was actually SHOCKED when I visited her during the summer that not all the corals I “donated” were dead. She had two Sunkist bounces were thriving (I’ve never seen the greens glow like they do in that tank), and a gorgonian that is still alive (though it looks looks to be the exact same size). I already offered her a Godspawn bounce frag as it just split. I probably won’t make it back there until the holidays, but I’m curious as to how that will do/look in her system.

Welcome to the club!

Nice looking system, following along.

1000g is quite a compromise. I look forward to seeing that build progress also.

Wow, you really experienced some growth! The growth pattern on that stag makes for a nice centerpiece. But what fish do you have in there now, I only see a Cardinal in the pics?

You are not paranoid, as I would lean towards replacing the stand. If you are unable to do so now, you could always reinforce the stand with a piece of plywood mounted to the inside of that panel.

Exciting news! I am not surprised as I don’t know of anyone else that is doing what she is. Congrats Nikki!