DFR

Not a licensed plumber, but may still be able to help. Rather than doing major plumbing work, do you have nearby access to a laundry room?

Welcome to the group! Tank looks great, looking forward to your tank build. You’re also pretty good area as you have 2 nice LFSs about 15mins away.

I have some, but I’m in MD.

It is definitely a stand out piece. I’m always amazed by what you are able to do. I finally threw in the towel on the Favia I was trying to save.

Same coral from your profile pic? It’s definitely developed some nice colors!

If you decide to go another route, look into the ReefBrite Blu Mini Magnum. This is great as a moonlight as it produces an unobtrusive amount of light that still allows for nighttime viewing.

The standpipes will make it difficult to catch it. If you are able to remove it/them without disturbing the bulkhead, that would be the best way. I’d then siphon/drain the water into the sump or some buckets until there’s 3 or less inches of water. This would make netting your fish much easier if it hasn’t Madeira way to the sump. Just be careful to not put to much stress on the bulkheads or you may spring a leak.

What size tank are you looking at? I do not personally know any builders in the area but I can walk you through the process if you’d like to undertake the task yourself.

Besides probes, do you have any leak detectors, or any water level sensors connected? If so, is it easy to integrate those sensors to work as an ATO system? I’m considering the migration but that is one area of concern for me (besides the lack of Mac support).

Did your hogfish ever resurface? With so many fish disappearing, is it possible for there to be a bobbit worm hiding in your system?

Following along! With those dimensions, I bet the level of depth is even better in person.

Looking nice! How’s your new tank coming along?

Ok, that value is pretty normal. How do you like the system without sand (high metals aside)?

Good to hear that your corals are recovering nicely! Is the Vanadium concentrations correct? 6ppm would be 6000ug/L which are higher than your previous test. But if it is 6ug/L (.006ppm) that would be more of a normal value.

Hey!!! Sorry to hear of your current issues. Doing an ICP test will definitely uncover any chemical abnormalities within your system. The only downside would be the time it will take to acquire results, which will in turn affect how soon you would be able to rectify any issues. Depending on the company used, it could take about 3 weeks to receive results, and now possibly longer due to covid19. Out of curiosity, I actually just mailed out some samples to be tested on Monday (still pending receipt of samples). Have you checked your power heads or pumps for rust? Have you made any changes to your flow recently? I don’t think the changes made to your lighting schedule would affect your LPS to that extent. Generally, doing a couple water changes could also help if there is a chemical imbalance or elevated pollutants in the system.

Nice tank! I’m definitely following along. That yellow digi is amazing by the way.

I agree with Isaac, we don’t quite have the traffic/posts to which that would be a better implementation (even with the increased volume seen lately due to the virus). Plus everyone here is generally “local” to the DMV.

That could work, but out of curiosity, why not just leave the sump below the tank?

Interesting, nice to know.

Nice and good luck! Keep us posted.

Nice that those test kits were able to provide some helpful results. Are you able to increase your feedings to up the Nitrates a bit. This will undoubtedly also increase your phosphates. Do you by chance have a means to reduce your phosphate (possibly GFO)? If you’re feeding decent food, your nitrates and phosphates should raise evenly so dropping your phosphates and increasing feeding should assist with your colors. Another option is continue what you’re doing and start with an amino dosing regimen. Only problem with this option is it’ll probably help feed your algae/cyano/dino.

To start off, I’d set them around 60%. This should bring your parr to around 200 at the sand bed. Once you start adding corals adjust based on response. There are probably people more adept with Radions that can chime in with their experiences.

With Kessil releasing updates of finally working on an upgrade for the AP700, I became excited as this could be a possible lighting option for an upcoming build. Well this past week I came in the market for a replacement light for my daughter’s tank(is just a 20g with mostly softies, a couple LPS, and 2 SPS). I’ve went over numerous scenarios with the best option being getting an AP700 to replace a 360 on my tank and put the 360 on hers. I have a temp lighting solution but would like to have something permanent. So what’s the news on the AP9X? I’d hate to get a 700 only to have the 9X go on sale shortly after.

Are the zoas pictured the only colony affected?

It is 80g supported by a 12g sump (fuge section equals about 3g). A Kessil H360 light is used to grow chaeto and caulerpa.