wildcrazyjoker81

The orings that are in all the joints need to be replaced. You would need to get a metric to standard adapter/union. If memory serves it is 25mm plumbing on that tank. Hope that helps. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Bumping to see if you've still had success breeding them? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I switched from the 800w Finnex to the BRS 600W heater (almost half the amp draw suprisingly) and it is keeping my system steady at 77 degrees on 260ish gallons of water in a basement. Just keep an eye on it. The Hygger 500w draws 7-7.5amps, so I can assume the 100W probably draws near or over 14 which is an entire circuit worth potentially.

You already know my take on this. I feel like I feed like crazy as well and i have to dose Nitrate and Phosphate as well. I try to stay around 10ish NO3 and between .04-.08 phosphate.

Looks good thus far. Any specific reason you put the sump backwards or was it just something you accidentally overlooked once you started plumbing? Is the heater one 1000W or two 500W? I ask because I am sure a 1000W heater draws some crazy amperage. Keep that in mind when adding other items to the circuit and if you ever get a controller. I had an 800w Finnex Heater cook/melt an outlet on my GHL Powerbar. GHL said the big heaters are a known issue with all controller power bars. Besides that, what are the thoughts moving forward on livestock and corals? I am always intrigued on what people add or the thought process as we all do things differently.

So the age old adage of bigger is better has never sat right with me with sumps. Technically more water volume means it could potentially be a little easier for slowing issues, but not always the case. Let's help answer your question. Does the current equipment you have fit into the other sump? Yes then next question. No then rethink your changing of sumps. Next is the new sump volume big enough to contain all water that may drain if the power is cut off? No then rethink your plumbing and sump choice. Yes then next question. Will the smaller sump be sufficient for all the equipment you plan on adding to it long term? Think reactors, fuge, UV, etc. Yes then I say absolutely go for it if it meets all the other things I mentioned. Don't really need to overthink it. Also there are lots of great sump options out there so don't limit yourself to one brand/style. Just my 2 cents. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

@Ben A has built some nice stands for folks here. I have a friend in Fredericksburg, Justin A. who builds nice stands too. Justin has built my past two stands. The attached pictures are the one he built in my basement for my 220 peninsula and the one he built for his 81G that I just helped sell a month ago for him. Send me a PM if you want his contact information. Aaron Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Okay I've just went through like 4 scrapers. The best one hands down is a combo of two scrapers. Tunze inside and Algae free outside. I found the Tunze outside magnet just isn't strong enough. I barely have to use effort finally and the coralline scrapes right off. With the Tunze I used the metal blade on the inside magnet.

My guess is because of how much 2 part you are adding, but that still shouldn't account for that drastic of an uptick. Seems a bit odd to me as well.

Yep it is basically the same as a kessil x controller...either can be used with the nicrew lights.

I can vouch for the nicrew 150s as I have seen them in action and they 1000% will grow SPS. That said I haven't personally used them as I am a t5 user still. A fellow reefer, Ben Jones lives down near Richmond and swapped out all of his radions for nicrew and added a few kessils for shimmer and a few led bars for the extra coverage they provide and has an absolutely stunning tank and corals. The attached photo is a screen grab from a video he sent me on FB Messenger. You can see the three pucks in the top from the nicrew. Also a local in Baltimore area, Jim aka Telegraham did a spectrum and par test on them and they are pretty close to g4 radions in spectrum and par. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

CTE Aquatics is the main LFS up that way. There are a bunch of at home vendors up that way as well.

It has been my experience that tanks just don't really like ULNS with higher alkalinity. I honestly really haven't found a reason to keep alkalinity much about 8-8.5 regardless of nutrient levels. I feel like the best growth I have had is between that 8-8.5 with having a good PH between 8.2-8.3. PH of course is one of the hardest things to manage typically in the hobby. I also never have great luck personally with running lower nutrients. More vibrant colors with Nitrate above 5 and phosphate above .03. I say all of this of course with the caveat that every tank is vastly different and it is always a contentious point when brought up. I feel like it is similar to asking "what is the best salt for a reef tank?" That all said I would probably lower your alkalinity levels and feed a little heavier as you had mentioned.

Sent you a text Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Leathers are fairly forgiving. I just cut it with my tank only scissors in the tank most times. A sterile razor blade is probably a better option. Mounting is definitely the hard part. I tried rubber bands and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. I now use fishing string to sew mine to a plug or just put the frags into a mushroom cage/cup with some rubble and pray it attaches.

I would think it would be fine since it was given time to dry initially. If anything you could rinse/shake each rock in RO water just in case any critters crawled in and such and gives it a known quick bath in good water.

Bump for an awesome seller. Have this Vertex 180i skimmer on my packed 80G and it is a workhorse that stinks up my basement . It fully comes apart unlike most skimmers and has that thick bubble king acrylic because it basically is a bubble king.

Been running the auto aqua smart micro on my 25 lagoon and it's been pretty good. The led broke on the sensor about 2 years in, but the sensor still operates as normal, so no real complaints. Very very small and fits anywhere along the back.

I too use my Profilux to manage ATO for two tanks as I have an expansion box to manage another tank in my basement. The max run time is a nice feature to make sure it limits mistakes. Have my trusty old Avast on my 40B with a float as a backup.

Many do say Tunze is the best, but I personally have always had bad luck with them. I am shocked to hear your having issues with your Avast ones. I have an Avast one that is over 10 years old now and been flawless. I did add the optional float to it many years ago as a backup. The only time the actual pressure tube failed me all that was needed was replacing the tubing between the sensor and pressure tube. Found that out after reaching out to Avast about my issues.

That's the kit I switched to and it works great for newer phones with multiple cameras compared to the smaller ones.

Stomatella is what your thinking of for rock/tank glass and nassarius snail for sand bed.

What has already been said is pretty much it in a nutshell. If you know you're going to need time, then borrow and or buy a Rubbermaid trough and set it up as a normal tank in the room until you can get the new one up and running. I've upgraded numerous times and it is a long day for sure. Having the big troughs has saved me numerous times as it allows you to make a ton of water and leave it running in case plumbing leaks or something just doesn't go as planned.

I've been doing the Battle Corals dip version using Reef Primer (Polyplab) and UWC Expel. That said Reef Primer ingredients are potassium salts. I can assume it is potassium chloride and maybe potassium iodide/iodine. UWC Expel I am positive is Bayer that is rebranded which UWC seems to be great at but I digress (lookup algaecide/vibrant debacle). That all said I switched to just potassium chloride and will add a little Bayer if I think things are needing a bit of an extra cleaning. I went with this one as it's 2.2lbs and same 1tsp per gallon as Lynn mentioned.

Sounds like a typical corner overflow box. The 1 inch indeed is the drain and the 3/4 inch indeed is the return. The return just has a pipe with an elbow that points toward the pre cut hole in the overflow box where the return locline typically sits. The drain typically sits lower in the box than the return so it leaves room. These are just random grabs from R2R and may obviously be different than yours. Pictures definitely help. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk