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ScooterTDI

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About ScooterTDI

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    Urchin

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    Arlington

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  1. Yea, this is really cool. Congressional aquarium had some awhile ago and I was tempted to set up a tank for them. What are they eating?
  2. Thanks, it's definitely more sturdy and gives more options for mounting things.
  3. Well, I abandoned the shelving unit. It seemed strong enough and I could stabilize it by mounting to the walls, but I couldn't get the shelves to lay flat enough. I ditched it and made my own shelves. Still need to do the finish work on the shelf frame, make the raised decking for the floor, and install the vent fan.
  4. It would be nice, but that won't fit in the area I already started building out in the closet. If it's not too expensive (and if the bottom isn't tempered, then I might use a standard 30 breeder (same dimensions as the Seapora tank). Worst case is that I just use the 20L I already bought.
  5. Does anyone know if any of the local shops are Seapora (formerly Deep Blue) aquarium dealers? I'm looking for pricing on a 34 g rimless frag tank (36x18x12). Thanks!
  6. Yea, I have one of those too. Way better than trying to use a magnetic scraper.
  7. Very cool! Good to see another long nano tank around. My only recommendation would be to turn it so it is a peninsula-style orientation and add some sort of discrete lid. I've had a lot of heartbreak from jumpers even when I had everything covered except a 1"x1/2" opening.
  8. Making progress. I'll need to stabilize the rack by mounting it to the wall. Seems a bit too wobbly otherwise. That is pretty much the coolest exhaust fan ever You know you are getting old when an exhaust fan really gets you excited. It automatically adjusts the fan speed to maintain a user specified temp and humidity range. I'm going to mount it above the door blowing into the hallway. I'll put a normal white 6"x6" HVAC return grate over the opening in the hall so it doesn't look to obvious.
  9. I would think you'd have higher consumption than that with all that sps. I'd increase the dose. My approach is to use a doser, but set the amount to be slightly less than the daily consumption. Then, test daily and make up any shortfall manually. I think this helps to avoid alkalinity spikes when the all consumption occasionally drops for various reasons. My alkalinity consumption is pretty rediculous right now, but it doesn't seem to be going to abiotic precipitation (at least there is nothing visible on any equipment), so I assume it is going to new growth. FYI, my tank will drop several dKH in a day without the doser, so it seems pretty reasonable that you'd be seeing 1+ dKH daily consumption.
  10. Yea, the RO 110 int is on the short list. How has the reliability been on the RO pump? I'm also looking at the Eshopps S-120 mostly for the Sicce pump. The Axium line also seems to be a good, no frills, utility skimmer.
  11. Yea, I have no plans on replacing the display. I really like having a small shallow display tank. The sump won't be giant though. I only have a 38"x43" space. I picked up a two 20L at Petco (dollar per gallon) for a new sump and frag tank. I'll probably go get a third to use as a NSW mixing tank. I was originally going to set up a mixing station in the basement next to the RODI, but all the plumbing, electrical, and pumps to move water to the closet seemed unnecessarily expensive. Easily to just run an RO line into the closet and mix there. Still deciding on equipment upgrades. I want to repurpose as much existing equipment as possible. I'm also considering using the same light/pumps as the display (current orbit loop system). It's not my first choice, but it works well for the display and I can swap components around if any of them break. I also plan to use redundant identical return pumps for the same reason. I'll probably use Quiet One 1200s. They've always been reliable for me and they are super inexpensive. I need a recommendation for a new skimmer though. Total water volume is ~45g. Preferably not too expensive, but consistent and durable. The Ice cap skimmer I have now works great, but recently broke due to poor design on the gate valve system. It's still operational, but difficult to adjust now.
  12. In the process or rearranging the living space in our house, I have acquired a fish room/closet! The aquarium has to move across the room, but now a closet will be directly behind it. First step was to protect the floor in case of leaks/spills. I removed the baseboards, cut out the drywall and plaster around the bottom, replaced with a perimeter of treated wood, then installed a shower pan liner. The wood frame that holds and tensions the liner is made from Ipe wood, so it is pretty much impervious to water. This should hold 20-30 gallons on the floor indefinitely. I'll install a removable, raised, Ipe deck over the frame. A metal rack will hold a sump, frag tank, and mixing station. RO line will be installed from the RODI unit in the basement. Let me know if you have any ideas for this space. I still collecting ideas on how I want this system arranged.
  13. I don't think it's possible to change out the LEDs on these fixtures. They are embedded in what appears to be epoxy.
  14. No one is ever satisfied with their tank, but that's the fun part. There is always something to work on improving. I don't know what the budget is, but there are lots of long term solutions that have been suggested that aren't too pricy. What exactly is the problem with supplementing with t5s in an AquaticLife fixture or getting some led strip lights (reefbrites, sbreef, or similar)?
  15. Fair enough, just trying to help. I didn't know if you were married to the 100% blue aesthetic all day long. I was just trying to find a way for you to keep the light since it seemed that is what you wanted in the original post and all your pumps are on the loop system too. I think you still can keep them by just supplementing with more blue LEDs and/or t5s.
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