wildcrazyjoker81

I have personally had 5x more Ecotech MP magnets rust and bust over my Jebaos, but alas all magnets will go at some point in this hobby. Sorry to hear it. Definitely a good public announcement for everyone to check their gear! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

It's hard to beat the nicrew as it basically stole the design of the G4 radio which I still firmly believe is the best light they have ever made. Control is done manually on the fixture or with a kessil controller. All depends if you are the set it and forget type or have to constantly tinker with the light on a phone app. If I were buying a new LED today it would probably be a reefi uno/duo if I was willing to pay a bit more, but on a budget it's super hard to beat the nicrews. A guy down in Richmond (Ben Jones) has tons of high end corals under them and they are all growing and coloring like crazy.

So IMO this exact situation is the problem with all for reef long term. Alk uptake will always be more than calcium/mag and the majority of trace. So with all for reef you would just need to dose more to get the alk back up, but keep an eye out as it will elevate everything else as well. I personally would just add in some soda ash or straight alkalinity supplement to get it back up to around 8ish dkh. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I would definitely think two would work for LPS and such. One gyre would cover the whole tank I bet, but depends if you like that style of flow as it is different than a traditional power head like the Nero. There really isn't a right or wrong answer on that front.

I got some for you for free [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Probably a limpet. I have hundreds of them and they are good cleanup crew. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

You have ATB (Aquarium and Terrarium Builders) down in Yorktown area. He builds nice stuff for the price and isnt terribly far. Probably easiest to find him on Facebook. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Milwaukee has been around for a very long time in the PH game and many use their PH controllers on Calcium Reactors, so that would be my choice. The MC120 is probably the best overall choice IMO. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Doesnt affect it's mouth so I would assume it's not an issue. If anything more camouflage for it to be hidden which in the wild I bet is common. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Contact RedSea and they will more than likely send you a new tank. Sadly this is a very common occurrence with RedSea tanks. Sorry to hear it! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Dang sorry to hear it. Definitely borrow/get a Rubbermaid tub and set that up until you have time to evaluate the situation and make a decision on going forward. I mean sometimes you gotta have the mentality of tanks being like cars. Sometimes newer cars break too. I'm down in Stafford but willing to help any way I can. Aaron 757-648-9401 Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

That is amazing! I have a pair of Japanese Swallowtails and got them both in at the same time and size. One has made the shift to male getting much larger and streamers. Can't wait until he gets the bars and color change. I lucked out and things have been smooth sailing for the past 8 months with them both. It is a species of angel that is hard to ignore being basically completely reef safe. I too in the past have been through a few sets trying to pair them as its not easy. The thing that has worked for me twice (once bellus and now swallowtail) is just getting them both really small and praying they are both female and nothing has shifted yet. I definitely wouldn't risk adding another as it could force a change of the current female into male, which is something anthias and wrasses seem to do a lot when the numbers of them change.

I kinda went down a rabbit hole a few months ago on heaters. Wanted to try out the new IM Helio PTC heater as that is the newest tech, but I'm definitely not one to adopt new tech in something as important as a heater as I read a lot of negative reviews that gave me an uneasy feeling. Finnex titanium and ehiem are always the old go to, but after reading and talking with a buddy in Italy who breeds discus I went with the BRS heaters. They are made by Schego and are great Germany made heaters. I like the fact they seem to pull less amperage than Finnex heaters per watt which is important on bigger wattage heaters. I've had the 600w one for 3 years and clean it twice a year and it has been rock solid. I have a spare in the closet for the day it dies or acts up. Just my thoughts on the topic. I'd love to hear some local successful stories on the PTC heaters. Aaron Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Pm sent

Your call if you want to redo the plumbing or not. I just know the orings definitely need to be replaced if your seeing salt creep/leaks. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

The orings that are in all the joints need to be replaced. You would need to get a metric to standard adapter/union. If memory serves it is 25mm plumbing on that tank. Hope that helps. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Bumping to see if you've still had success breeding them? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I switched from the 800w Finnex to the BRS 600W heater (almost half the amp draw suprisingly) and it is keeping my system steady at 77 degrees on 260ish gallons of water in a basement. Just keep an eye on it. The Hygger 500w draws 7-7.5amps, so I can assume the 100W probably draws near or over 14 which is an entire circuit worth potentially.

You already know my take on this. I feel like I feed like crazy as well and i have to dose Nitrate and Phosphate as well. I try to stay around 10ish NO3 and between .04-.08 phosphate.

Looks good thus far. Any specific reason you put the sump backwards or was it just something you accidentally overlooked once you started plumbing? Is the heater one 1000W or two 500W? I ask because I am sure a 1000W heater draws some crazy amperage. Keep that in mind when adding other items to the circuit and if you ever get a controller. I had an 800w Finnex Heater cook/melt an outlet on my GHL Powerbar. GHL said the big heaters are a known issue with all controller power bars. Besides that, what are the thoughts moving forward on livestock and corals? I am always intrigued on what people add or the thought process as we all do things differently.

So the age old adage of bigger is better has never sat right with me with sumps. Technically more water volume means it could potentially be a little easier for slowing issues, but not always the case. Let's help answer your question. Does the current equipment you have fit into the other sump? Yes then next question. No then rethink your changing of sumps. Next is the new sump volume big enough to contain all water that may drain if the power is cut off? No then rethink your plumbing and sump choice. Yes then next question. Will the smaller sump be sufficient for all the equipment you plan on adding to it long term? Think reactors, fuge, UV, etc. Yes then I say absolutely go for it if it meets all the other things I mentioned. Don't really need to overthink it. Also there are lots of great sump options out there so don't limit yourself to one brand/style. Just my 2 cents. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

@Ben A has built some nice stands for folks here. I have a friend in Fredericksburg, Justin A. who builds nice stands too. Justin has built my past two stands. The attached pictures are the one he built in my basement for my 220 peninsula and the one he built for his 81G that I just helped sell a month ago for him. Send me a PM if you want his contact information. Aaron Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Okay I've just went through like 4 scrapers. The best one hands down is a combo of two scrapers. Tunze inside and Algae free outside. I found the Tunze outside magnet just isn't strong enough. I barely have to use effort finally and the coralline scrapes right off. With the Tunze I used the metal blade on the inside magnet.

My guess is because of how much 2 part you are adding, but that still shouldn't account for that drastic of an uptick. Seems a bit odd to me as well.

Yep it is basically the same as a kessil x controller...either can be used with the nicrew lights.