hypertech

I woke up to find water on the floor this morning. Turns out the return line came off, the pump sprayed water all over and the GFI tripped. I got everything cleaned up but now my Apex is telling me its 121 degrees. I tried putting it in a glass of ice water and calibrating, but it would only cycle in the range of 100-130 (reading did not change). It would be a strange coincidence that the temp probe fails at the same time this happened. The Apex is mounted close to the return pump about two feet above it. I'm wondering if the pump might have sprayed water high enough to get the Apex wet and fry something in it. Everything seems to be working except for the temp probe (though I did forget to look at my pH readings this AM), which would seem to be a little odd if it was a problem with the Apex and not the probe. Anyone have thoughts? I need to order replacement parts today since no temp control is, well, a bad thing, and I'm wondering if I need to order a new temp probe, an expansion module that has a temp circuit or both.

I think so. There are presets for most things or you can write scrips. Search for the unofficial apex guide. It's not by Neptune but very well written. The step most often causing people trouble is the network setup but its their router and ISP not the apex that's the trouble. Lots of people here with them too so easy to find help.

The lite does not have the variable outputs either. Other than that they are the same.

It's probably too low a current draw for the triac outlets. Use outlet 4 or 8 for it. They have relays and should switch off.

The chamber doesn't fill or there is no water flow on the output? It's normal for the chamber to fill or fill only partially. Do you have a pressure gauge after the filters and before the membrane?

iOS latest version. Safari. Consistent every time.

I'm on the mobile version. When I click back to leave a thread, the loading box appears and stays.

Not hard. If its a seperator and not a water tight baffle, just wedge it in there. If it needs to hold water, you'll have to dry out at least that section for long enough to cure.

I use a needle valve. I was having trouble with the ball valve too and once I got the needle valve, its been much better. I'll see if I can find a link. Edit: Here is the one I bought: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=32220&catid=956&clickid=searchresults

You can't program from the ios app either. You can control outlets, see parameters, and view graphs. I use my computer for programming.

An Apex will do all of that. The network control is via a web page so you can use any type of computer. There is an iOS app and there at least used to be an Android app.

I'd do a brine shrimp or a phyto growth project. The other ideas here would just take too long and have too many variables for a 6th grade project. If your a sparky, maybe - how does salinity affect conduction of salt water.

Mine are both in the sump. Between the return pump and the powerheads mixing the display, I just don't see how they temp could be all that different anywhere in the tank.

I'm going to be in Haymarket on Saturday. My sandsifting star has outgrown my tank. If you are interested, PM me.

VMWare is good. VirtualBox is free. https://www.virtualbox.org/

I'm in the don't buy another computer camp. You can run it in VirtualBox or use BootCamp to setup a windows partition.

I bought a small prototype reactor off of them. Its great. I would buy another for carbon if they made it a product. That said, at least the one I bought, would still be overkill for a 20. I'm using it for GFO on my 75.

For a square rimless, I am assuming you want a pendant of some kind for the "look." so I would look at LED or MH. The Maxspect LED is getting good reviews for a good light at a good value. For a MH, you could do a single 250W and get good coverage. I like the look and shimmer of a MH over the LED (but some go the opposite way), so I'd do the MH pendant.

I've decided to supplement my 250s with a strip of royal blue LEDs. I've got all built and just need to hang it. I tested it at low intensity (have to wait till its word to controller and programmed to turn them up) and I like it.

It's probably the water temp. The rating is based on a particular temperature 70F I think. If your water is colder than that it will be slower.

I've used a Reefkeeper (generation before the current products) and the AC Jr and Apex (Neptune products). The reefkeeper worked fine, but I think Neptune is the better platform. Most of the complaints on the Apex aren't really complaints about the Apex but rather network setup to get outside access to the controller that would be an issue regardless of whether it was an Apex or a RKE. Overall, it does seem that there are more complaints about post-sale support with Digital Aquatics (Reefkeeper). Neptune has well regarded support for their customers.

Till your float gets stuck - or if you are using a vacuum style - you get a pinhole in your top off jug. Its not fool proof.

I use 2 float switches wired to my apex. That gives me redundancy and its on a timer so it can't just dump the whole top off tank at once. Though I haven't programmed it yet, it will also give me the ability to send an email alert when the top off tank is empty. ie - if the pump runs for a full minute, send alarm.

I don't think I would want to put the pressure of sawing on an installed pipe. You are risking a crack at the bulk head. I'd use a pipe cutter. A pipe cutter is a good tool to have anyway. Once I finally bought one I wanted to kick myself for not getting one sooner. So much better for cutting pipe than a saw.

Will you split the apex? I'm interested in one EB8.