hypertech

I wouldn't. People do make concrete rocks, but they soak them for a long long time to cure them and get the pH right. How much of an area are you trying to fill? If the tank isn't wet, I've seen some good results with expanding foam. If it is wet, you can fill small areas with plumbers epoxy.

If you go with 1" drains and one return that you split near the top, it will be smaller. Less holes of smaller dimension will reduce the size of the overflow. I don't know that I would do a center overflow in that size tank. It seems like it would be aweful close to the front glass. Could you do an end overflow or a corner instead?

How much water are you guys making that that cost difference is going to be worth the trouble? Even if the percentage is 33%, its only a savings of $2. I have to change my resin only once or twice a year.

If you got transported to an alien world where a giant grabbed you and shoved tubes in your orifices, would you be adjusted to it in two weeks?

They are extremely common on a full siphon aka herbie drain setup. Many times I have found a small trickle in my emergency drain signaling that a small adjustment to the gate valve is needed. If I didn't have that drain line I'd have had water on the floor.

IF he is running a full siphon drains, it is absolutely required to have an emergency drain and this is in no way an urban reef legend. If anything - a snail, a piece of algae, whatever - gets into a full siphon drain, the tank will overflow unless you have the emergency drain.

I use a galaxy dual ballast. I like it. Its quiet, not too large and doesn't get too hot. I would buy one again. Some people are against the dual ballast because if one side goes, you have to repair and can't replace. You are also out of both lights if you have to send it in for a repair. However, for me, the space savings is worth it.

Try live brine and then put some frozen brine in with the live brine to get it used to eating frozen foods.

My DI runs about half full of air. It always has. That's all the pressure it needs to push the water through the resin and to the storage bin. The air level changes a bit depending on if its just starting up, etc, but its never caused a problem for me.

Remember to solve the storage problem if you buy in bulk. Unless you can seal it up really really well, it will lose effectiveness from exposure to air.

I have heard of coral colonies randomly being covered as a "decoration" but it seems a real hit or miss. For the most part, an insurace company will tell you no. Although, if J Lo can insure her rear end, it seems you should be able to find someone to write you a policy on the fish tank.

I think he means the tubing wasn't tight in the fitting. The only problem that might cause is a leak.

Bob does do great work. He was going to skin my stand for me, but I haven't been able to reach him for months.

A brand new 10g is what $10? I don't think repairability is a concern. If something happens to one of them, its far easier to scrap it and get a new one.

Teflon tape is good, but remember locline is close but not water tight. So, if it isn't already over a place where it could drip or catch salt creep at the 90, make sure by the first ball joint it is.

No, he spends 151.20.

I only run carbon when I suspect something is up. It really doesn't last that long, so to effectively run it all the time, you'd have to change regularly and would go through a lot.

I did it the easy way and skipped it. But if I was to use one, I'd do it the green ninja way.

I don't have time to look at all the links, but the first one has 12 radions over half the tank. The spread must be oustanding. Its also simply not possible to have the same coverage area. The emitters put out a certain amount of light. You can redirect it lots of ways. If you use a narrow pattern for more penetration, you will have less coverage. If you have a wider coverage area, you get less penetration. With the same emitter, no lens is going to give you better penetration with the same coverage (unless it is recovering wasted light that didn't get out of the fixture before in which case that lens should be includied IMHO). I don't care what their marketing materials say - they can't break phsyics.

And, while they are selling you lenses to make them have better penetration, they'll sell you a couple more units too because the spread will be less. On a big tank like that I wouldn't do LEDs. The light is too collimated and a big coral colony would be easily shaded.

You could try Quantum Reef. They were advertising bulk BRS stuff sold in refill quantities.

Are there a lot of windows up there? You might be able to reduce some of that by getting film put on the windows.

First, try a simple fan blowing over the tank. Evaporative cooling can go a long way and its cheap. If that's not enough you could look at chillers.

They are probably fine, but remember there is no way to be "sure" of anything. The reef really isn't a very friendly place with most of the things we keep being opportunistic. There is always a chance one critter will go for another critter if they think they look tasty that day.

I think an hour is plenty. More than that and I start to worry about temperature shock and added stress from being in the small container too long. Can you explain the basis for this SG based one week death theory? Seems like conjecture to me. Fish can handle a lot. People shock sick fish with ich in a fresh water bath as a therapy. I don't see how acclimating could lead to a death a week later if the SG was too far apart.