hypertech

There are several fish and corals I'm interested in, but there is just no way I could get to Harrisonburg. Do you ever come to the DC area?

I prefer the Avast reactors over the BRS reactor. The BRS reactor is essentially an RO filter canister. So, to change the media, you unscrew the connector and take out the cartridge, which you then clean out and change the media in. I find replacing the media in a avast style reactor to be less messy. I also had a hard time figuring out where to put the BRS reactor. If you have a fish room or a big stand, it could be mounted to the wall and might be very advantagous in that sense. But, if you are expecting to stand it up somewhere, you may have trouble finding a spot for it to fit.

Fixed. Should work now.

If I'm closest - Alexandria, you are welcome to bring it over and we can get you fixed up.

The tentacles that got chopped off are likely goners and can be removed. The part with the oral disc though you should keep until it turns brown or into sludge. If it was healthy before blending, they are pretty hardy and can bounce back from a lot.

If the Apex says that the heater is on, and its still getting cold, turn the heater on and briefly lift it out of the water. You should feel it start to get hot. If it doesn't do that, then eithe rthe thermostat in the heater needs ot be adjusted or its blown.

The only concern I can think of is a long time delay between the solenoid closing and the co2 bleeding the pressure off and stopping if you have a lot of line. Unless you are running your carx based on a pH controller in a pretty aggressive manner even that probably isn't an issue.

don't use rodi. Use calibration fluid. If there is a linearity error, if it's right at 0 it could be way off at 1.026. We care about accuracy near 1.026 so that is what you want to use to calibrate. Once they are set they really shouldn't need to be recalibrated. It's actually not a good idea to recalibrate with old solution. If anything evaporates out of the solutions it's salinity changes so you will be recalibrating to the wrong point.

I want them as tight as possible because this increases the sealing area of the gasket. If your bulkhead is too small, the gasket may not be contacting glass as much as it should be. There should be some room to be able to install it but if there is a lot of extra space it is probably the wrong size or type. As noted above sched 80 bulkheads use a different size hole than 40. BRS website has all the hole sizes to figure out what bulkhead the hole is for.

I have this and it does work the same as 16. I work near the white house and you could borrow it if you need a little - but I need it returned under threat of algae takeover and brown coral plagues. Its my only tube and I use it every so often.

I use a 20L as a sump for my 75g. There are lots of slimmer choices. I'm fussy about noise so I went with a Vertex Alpha 170.

I've done a calander for another fish club. We had a photo of the month contest each month and at the end of the year we compiled them into a calander that we had printed. The calendars turned out great. Sales were OK and I think we ended up meeting the printing costs. The trouble with a calander is that it has a limited shelf life. You have to have everything done and to the printer several months early so taht you have them in hand when people are thinking about a calander. Once you are into the next year, its near impossible to give them away. So, its not like a lot of other promotional items that if they don't sell well at first you can keep them around until they get used up.

I can see selling an newly developed upgrade to previous purchasers. But, I don't think they are including it on new purchases either. So, if you were to walk into a store today, you would need to buy the light and the lens.

If all it does is redirect previously wasted light, then IMHO it seems like it should be a standard part of the light. I'd be a little annoyed if I spent all that money on the light and then got hit for another $30 to make it perform as it should. I see that case as different than if it is just changing the shape and some people might want it and some might not. Then it makes sense to sell it seperate. But, from teh pictures posted above, it doesn't seem like there is any reason not to have it and in that case it feels like it should be included and not an upsell to an already expensive light.

I pulse mine and don't let them stop. That's my solution. I think its common and I don't know that there is much you can do about it. But, if you find something out, let me know too.

You can try to dissolve them in vinegar. I've done this and it worked for me. Others suggest duct tape to pull them out, but I haven't tried it first hand.

My point is that if you make your list too onerous, many would just say screw it and ignore it all and do their own thing. I know if I got a doom and gloom list like that I would. I kept a BC29 a long time. I did not do anything on your daily list daily (though I did have an ATO and a temp controller) and I might have done the things on your 3 day and every week lists every couple months.

A little dramatic don't you think? NEVER EVEREVER EVER EVER use water from your sink. Everything will be poisoned and die. There are plenty of reasons not to use tap water, and I don't recommend doing so, but its not poison and it probably isn't going to kill everything.

Yes, sounds right, but here is how to make those adjustments. Step 1: Set the overflow box so that the display tank level is where you want it. Ignore the sump level here, the main concern is that the display level is right. Step 2: Set the baffle height for the skimmer section. It needs to run right. Step 3: Turn on the pump and fill just enough water that the pump isn't sucking air. Step 4: Turn off the pump and let the siphon break. If the sump might overflow, adjust the return nozzles so that the siphon breaks quicker. If there is plenty of space, fill up the sump till you have a fair margin of error. Step 5: Turn on pump, mark water level in return chamber of sump. This is your maximum normal operating level that will not overflow in a power outage. Step 6: Turn off pump and verify that siphon breaks and sump does not overflow. Don't forget the skimmer in the test. When the skimmer stops, water/foam in the body can add a little bit to the sump volume. Step 7: Setup ATO based on mark from earlier.

What do you mean by this? The display tank overflows do not set the water level in your sump, they set the water level in your display. If you skimmer needs deeper water, you need to raise the baffle height in teh skimmer area of your sump. This will address the pump issue if you mean the skimmer pump. If you mean the return, you just need to add more water.

If thats the case this does nothing more than your standard optic. There's no "TIR magic juice" that ecotech has figured no one else has.

Tried that. Mine apparently learned to bite harder and faster instead of staying away.

OK, nets and goldfish crackers. I can do that. I knew some of the bigger clown species could be mean, but I didn't know true percs would get this aggressive. I've kept at least one true perc for years and never experienced it. That's why I was curious if it might be related to mating behaviour. I guess they are just plain old regular mean.

The only way the spread can be the same is if the distribution is changed and they've made a hot spot right under the tank and reduced the output at other parts of the pattern or if they are redirecting light that was escaping and not being sent into the tank before. However, if its the latter, then it seems like this should be a standard part of the fixture and that isn't how they are marketing it. Or, they are full of crap.

To get a fair picture of what the lens does, you should put just one in the middle of the tank and measure across the length of the tank at different heights with and without the lens. The lens cannot create more light, it has to be redirecting it from somewhere. So, the question really is if it is capturing light that was previously lost scattering out the sides before getting to the tank or if it is narrowing the beam so that more units will be needed.