hypertech

There are basic settings for most generic things you should set how you like it. For example, set the temp for the heater, the schedule for the lights, etc. once you get the hang of it, you can switch over from the built in functions to advanced for your own programming (more of a script language really) and make it do just about anything you want.

Add an osc statement to this so it can only run a couple minutes a few times a day as a fail safe. I also like to make virtual outlets for switch inputs so I can name them. Not so bad with one, but when you get more and/or can't remember if open means asserted or not, having a name on the web interface is real helpful.

Could the cut be the mouth and it is expelling waste? If not and its otherwise in good shape, I'd leave it alone. I've had some with pretty nasty tears in the foot heal up just fine. Some people propagate them by intentionally cutting them up.

Who knows. It's broke and I need a new one.

I came home to find the glass on my halide pendant shattered and in the tank. Anyone know a source near Alexandria for a new piece of tempered glass?

Lowes should have it.

I think you are over thinking this. I'd set it up as herbie and not worry so much about the mixing or flow pattern. The mp40 will keep it all mixed up plenty.

That's true. I also clip off the bottom corners.

I ran it along one side. Pushed it over a little to smush it good. Silicone the other side an smooth it with my finger. It's a sump. It doesn't have to be pretty. It doesn't even have to be water tight. As long as if leaks slower than your pump the baffle will do its job.

It should. I cut them a little small on purpose so they don't stress the tank sides. I just use regular silicon and have never had a problem.

I have a swabbie. I clean it out every couple weeks. Body and pump get cleaned maybe once a year.

At some point it may be easier to put a stepper motor on their pot

Are you sure you got it back together right after the flush? Sometimes when DI exhausts that fast the membrane isn't seated or there is some routing problem so unfiltered water is hitting the DI.

That was my thought too - till I realized I can't reflash it without the network connection working.

Can you tell if its leaking from the tubing side or the threaded side? You can over tighten them. If its the tubing side, try make a fresh cut end and making sure it is nice and round. Then make sure it is fully inserted. Sometimes it takes a little effort to push the tubing all the way in.

I'm having some trouble with mine. First, I noticed my tunzes weren't spinning. If I unplug the control cable, they started spinning. Looks like the control cable is rusted and may have shorted out. Now, I have no network connectivity. I thought it might be the wireless adapter so I bought a power line adapter but no dice. The status light for a connection does not come on. I've tried network reset and cycling power. No help. Anyone have other suggestions? Seems like some of the ports on my base unit have gone out. Anyone know of a local shop that carries just the base unit?

It hasn't been available for a long time. We had to switch our dogs to something else over a year ago.

Buy a Mac.

If this project doesn't work try ordering some silicon tubing. It's expensive but you don't need much. Very flexible. Good for reducing tension on fittings and for isolating vibration.

Can you drain as much as you can and slide it on furniture mover disks?

What kind of bulbs are you talking about? I've never had a bulb change kill a coral.

Right, because the federal register is a quick read over morning coffee.

You are going to have to come up with a subterrean feeders blend.

Also, you are going to quickly spend more money on purchasing water than an rodi will cost you. If you have phosphates, etc in your tap water, every time you top up or water change you could actually be making the problem a little worse.

80 nitrates is an issue. It's pushing it for fish and way high for corals. You are feeding a lot for a tank with limited filtration. Cut back the feeding and up the water changes. You could also consider a bacteria jump starter. A lot of them are snake oil but I did have some luck with seachem stability, which I think petsmart carries.