hypertech

Just do what you have now for plumbing except twice. Display drains to fuge. Fuge drains to sump. Return from sumo to display.

So keep the fuge outside the tank and use the whole 29 for it. Then put a sump in the stand and put the skimmer in there. A 20L makes a decent sump for a 75. Unless you have a custom stand and planned ahead for a 40B one usually won't fit. A lot of 75g tanks use the 20L for a sump. They are a great deal on the $1 sale, but they aren't that bad regular price and you can pick one up and pretty much any pet store.

So make the skimmer area bigger. That sale tends to come around about 2x a year too.

I have a pair of true percs. About two years ago, I acquired two small percs. Now, one has grown much larger and I assume that means I now have a pair. The smaller male at first would just follow me around when I was cleaning up the tank. Some might have called it "cute." Then, the head butting started when I got too close to his anemone. Then, little nips. Now, he has recruited the bigger female and they aren't content to just protect their anemone - they go into full attack mode as soon as I put my hand in the tank. They are seriously after blood - especially the female. She looks for the biggest piece of skin she can find, grabs it and tries to rip it off. More than once, I've just grabbed her, and put her back in her anemone on the other side of the tank. She was so busy attacking me, she forgot to swim away. I've never had a perc this aggressive before, but I've not had a mating pair either. Is this behavior a precursor to mating and eggs?

I just don't see how this can make that much of a difference for the 1hr trip home until they are out of the bag (or its opened) and you are starting acclimation.

I'd try just putting a fan on it first. The total heat in the room wasn't an issue before. The problem is that it is concentrated by your QT tank. Put a fan in there to get some air movement and disperse it and it might fix the problem. If the fan increases evap and you don't want that, set it up to run when the chiller is on and for an hour after.

I use black silicon tubing. Its great. Prevents algae growth and provides good isolation from vibration.

I have used a syringe plus in a 58 with no problem. Its locally concentrated but it would tai a lot to be significant at the tank level.

A good friend of mine who even did a lot of diving started having a sever reaction to the saltwater in her tank. She ended up having to wear gloves all the time. I think she may have even had to quit eating seafood. It was bizzare.

Nothing. I have a backup switch that triggers an alarm if the first fails. Its never gone off. That's not to say it can't, its just not a big enough worry that I bother with any prevantative matinenance.

So, if my in is 800, its OK to supply my aquarium with water of 80 TDS, but if my in is 200, then its only OK to supply my aquarium with water of 20 TDS? That rule doesn't make any sense. Once you start having a reading, its time to change it. Its not an emergency or anything like that, but its near or at capacity and its time to change it.

Yes, that would mean its time to replace the DI. There is only one membrane and its the RO membrane. The rest are filter cartridges. If you don't seem anything on the membrane, you could look at teh flow restrictor. It might have a label indicating what the flow rating for it is.

I've always used 1/4 acrylic too with no problems. Note that I've always used a 12" wide sump too so if you have something wider you might need thicker or glass. Why do you need 6 pieces? That's a lot of compartments and you'll lose a lot of space just to baffling. My sump has one.

Clams can take a long time to starve out. If there wasn't any new growth on the shell, that is what I would suspect.

Does it shrink up if you touch it? If so, could be a majano. If not, likely a mushroom. Doesn't look like a ricordia to me.

It works through the browser the same, but on a mac, you can't use the //apex shortcut. You have to type in the ip address.

Are you restricted in width for the sump? With a 30" wide display, it seems like there should be space for something wider than a 55 for a sump. Something like a 40B or even a 75 would be a better sump because the width would give you more equipment options and more room to work.

What they said. HOwever, if you insist, just get a piece of styrofoam and poke a hole in the middle of it to hold it. That's how I float my pH probe. I don't know why that wouldn't work for this too.

Glad you caught it. About the top - try to get one from black acrylic if you can. This will stop algae from growing in the overflow chamber as well. Limpits Reef sells a nice one for the mega flow. There is nothing all that special about it, but the price is pretty fair. For me, ordering one was easier than constructing so that's whereI got mine.

Sounds like the glass tank top did it not the overflow cover.

I once worried about this, but its never happened. I figure if they do land up there, they must be flopping around until they slide back in the water.

Another good option is the Vertex alpha cone line. IMHO, most of what makes the BK better is the Red Dragon pump. The fit an finish on the CNC parts is also nice but not required. I had one and never could get comfortable with the take apart collection cup. I kept thinking if I bumped it at all on the way to the sink, I'd have all the stink on the floor and my days would be numbered. Its an easy cleaning design but I didn't like it. Anyway, with the alpha cone, you get the Red Dragon pump and you also get a good quality skimmer body.

I found that the heat from my MH, warped my covers ever so slightly. If that were to happen, there is enough space that it will still drain over the top. Another plus for MH!

Avacado's number is very big ....... I'll pay two dollars so I don't have to think that hard.....

Don't pick a custom tank setup because you have $20 worth of plumbing parts that don't fit the plan. Design the tank and then get the plumbing you need to make it work if what you have doesn't match.