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Matt LeBaron

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About Matt LeBaron

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    Master Reefer
  • Birthday 11/28/1981

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    Ellicott CIty, MD
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    Paintball, Warhammer 40k, Anime, and Board Games.

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  1. This is a very interesting idea that I think I will give a try. I think ideally if I could find some of the bricks that have the hollow area's in the center it could be both a good growth area for bacteria and a refuge for the fish also. I think I will give them a good washing and boiling first though to be on the safe side.
  2. Not sure but "Aussie" in front of a coral is a negative for me, in my experience they tend to be slow growing and very sensitive to anything less than absolutely perfect parameters. Other people's experience may vary but one big tip off for me that they don't tend to do well in aquariums is that I do not see many hobbyists selling frags of them. Usually you'll see people selling frags of more well established corals that have done well in and acclimated to existing in captivity whereas basically every "Aussie" coral I ever see from sale is fresh shipped in from (hopefully) Australia.
  3. If you don't work in marketing perhaps you should.
  4. You're going to have some pissed off people if these "grafts" eventually reject each other or one color ends up dominating the other. I for one would not be paying top dollar for this particular experiment, especially when these pictures are obviously so color corrected. Heck, the coraline algae in that picture looks brighter than the coral itself. I'd also at least want the corals to be healed enough to not still be showing the glue if I were going to drop $2K. Ah well whatever floats someone's boat I guess, that money will likely go a long way towards keeping these sellers in business, which at the end of the day is probably a good thing. And if these experiments do work out they'll eventually become more common and I would love to pick them up at a decent price after someone else determines whether it works out long term.
  5. So I have cultured phyto in the past to raise brine shrimp and copepods. I just used a couple of 5G buckets, lights, and air pump and it was fairly straight forward. Raising the brine shrimp was easy, the copepods, not so much. Or well I guess it wasn't hard but it was hard to do in the numbers I needed at the time. I was able to raise some copepods but not very many for all of the effort involved and not enough to really meet my needs. (I was raising seahorses at the time) Not sure if I was doing something wrong or what the deal was but I just couldn't get the pods going in the numbers I needed. Now there are a bit more resources for doing this than there were 5+ years ago, more articles online and a better selection of fertilizer for the phyto and options for copepods to start a culture so you may have more luck with it now. One thing you need to be careful of is contamination, I lost several phyto cultures due to this, which while not 100% sure was likely some water from my DT getting into my cultures and some other organism basically winning out and killing it all. Luckily by that time I had plenty of phyto in bottles in my fridge so it was just a cause of cleaning everything really well and restarting but it is still something to be careful with.
  6. Still have to wonder what it will look like when it grows beyond frag size. $2500 is a lot for not knowing what it will look like down the road.
  7. I mean I was told it was Oregon tort but I didn't ask for breeding papers on it. To me it looked like Oregon tort, I mean it's definitely a tort, the growth pattern is correct for one so I never had any reason to question it. But I'm going to take this as a lesson learned and just sell any future corals as nameless, not worth the hassle otherwise and I'm not trying to "market" anything just sell off extras when I have to trim my corals down to not grow into each other. It is interesting to see littlelise1985's picture as that is very likely the same coral (AlanM didn't have two torts that I remember) but it looks very purple to me and definitely looks different than mine on the coloration front even though they're the same coral. I would be curious to see what would happen if you put a frag of mine next to littlelise1985's to see if they would grow into each other or attack each other as foreign entities. It would be interesting to see what would happen if they did grow into each other would the different pieces retain their different colors I wonder.
  8. I'm with you on that. I'm just going to post a picture of the colonies and let people decide from there. This whole naming business is a pain in the ass and not worth it when I have colony shots I can just show.
  9. Here's a close up with my crappy cell camera but it's good enough to see the color and growth pattern. This picture was taken under very white light, which is one reason I am a fan of this particular coral as I am not a huge fan of the blue look and it still looks awesome under a more normal balanced spectrum. The larger colony shot above was taken with my blues turned up a bit, not the straight blues I see a lot of people use but more than this picture. It looks like a tort to me but I'm by no means an expert on coral identification, I tend to pick out a few corals I really like and grow them out into large colonies and I am also generally a fan of Millepora's, which are very easy to identify.
  10. Something to keep in mind is that the more "common" or "popular" corals are referred to in that way because they look good enough in almost any tank capable of supporting them for people to want them. Sure the red montipora or green slimer/green millepora are common but they look darn good in virtually every tank I have ever seen them in. (Including mine) I've never actually seen a large colony of many of the crazy expensive corals that you see around today because most people frag them as soon as possible. Do a search for Walt Disney Acropora and pop over to the image search, the largest walt disney acro you'll see is at best *maybe* 3-4 inches in diameter, which by my reckoning is a really small colony. I would be interested to see what a large colony of that would look like but I've never seen anyone grow one out. And honestly all of the pictures you'll see of the walt disney are always until heavy blue light, which makes just about any coral pop. My recommendation would be to find some corals you think you may like, get your tank stable enough and able to grow them out and see what they grow into. If you don't like how they look you can likely sell a large colony for enough to purchase a new frag and try again.
  11. Yep that's it on the right there. Slow grower but still doing well. This thread has been an interesting lesson in how I am just going to stop using the designer names for things. Honestly it's all a bit silly since corals look different in different tanks, I'm actually kind of surprised that the tort I got from you has still basically retained its coloration and growth pattern in my tank as my experience over the years has been that corals change color in my tank fairly significantly. I have some smaller colonies in my tank where you can still pick out the original frag piece and their new growth pattern is very different in my tank vs what they came to me as.
  12. It came form AlanM’s tank breakdown 2-3 years ago. I’ll just stick to calling it a blue tort going forward I think.
  13. Do you have some kind of open blade pump in the tank like a gyre or vortech pump? Maybe the anemone got chopped up by that and the Scoly just took advantage of the anemone soup floating around?
  14. Any idea whether the coral on the right may be an Oregon tort? I know the naming thing is extremely hit or miss but are there other torts that are close to the Oregon that this could be? I was told it's an Oregon tort but think I may just be better off calling it a blue tort, not that I really know how you verify the lineage of almost any coral without a seriously clear path back to some original.
  15. Are there other tortuosa varieties out there than Cali and Oregon? Those are the only two I’ve ever heard about but I was wondering.
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