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Origami

President Emeritus
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About Origami

  • Rank
    President Emeritus
  • Birthday 11/21/1960

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW of Leesburg, S of Hamilton, VA
  • Interests
    Scuba, reefkeeping

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  1. If you do it in that order and allow the freshwater to distribute before drawing out the gallon of tank water, it'll be as good as it can be (mathematically speaking). If you draw that gallon out (step 2) before you allow the freshwater to distribute, you'll (again, mathematically speaking) be drawing water out that is slightly higher in salinity than what you're replacing it with, ultimately drawing your salinity downward over the long haul. Keep in mind, though, that you need to be precise when topping off your water so that it matches evaporation. However, unless the tank is rather small, the net downward trend will be small and can be corrected from time to time by adding a bit of saltwater to the tank in lieu of freshwater for topoff. If you don't already have an automatic topoff system, you really should get one. It's the first bit of automation that really pays back in reducing the daily chore-level and keeps parameters stable as well.
  2. Prinz, Chemically-speaking, kalk is calcium hydroxide, or lime powder. It has low solubility in water - that is, only a very small amount of it dissolves (as you noted) completely and a sediment often settles to the bottom of any container that you add it to. The level of dissolution is typically a teaspoon per gallon or less. Kalkwasser is German for "limewater" and it's the slightly milky fluid that sits above the undissolved lime that settles to the bottom of a reasonably still (or only very slightly stirred) container of water and lime. Kalkwasser's concentration is very well controlled so long as you don't have a bunch of undissolved sediment suspended in the water. That's an important point to note which Sneeze has already made and I'm here just to reiterate it to underscore its importance. So, if you're stirring the container of kalk plus water with a pump, it's very likely that you'll have suspended solids, and you won't have much control over the alkalinity that you're dosing. Stir your Kalk reservoir intermittently and just enough to keep it saturated. Once a day for a moment or two is normally enough. Then, let the undissolved solids settle out before dosing your tank.
  3. 18K on my phone. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  4. Alan, whatever that image was, the underlying link went to mail.google.com and seemed to tie into some message. It was not a direct link to an image.
  5. John does a great job. In a competitive business that sees its share of turnovers, he's continued to be a reliable, quality supplier and loyal WAMAS supporter & sponsor. That in itself is a testimony to doing things right. Thank you for sharing your experience!
  6. From our friends at SaltwaterAquarium.com, two AquaEl Leddy-Slim LED lights! One 36W "Sunny" spectrum light to fit 40-48" tanks ($150 retail value) and one 32W "Plant" spectrum lamp to fit 32-40" tanks (retail value $170). Link to AquaEl lamps.
  7. Just added an I/O Breakout Box for your Neptune Systems Apex. A $40 value. Donated by Saltwateraquarium.com!
  8. I've just added two raffle prizes to the first post: First, a 1-year free subscription to Coral Magazine - the best produced reef aquarium magazine in the world (IMHO). Donated by the great people at Reef2Rainforest Media. Second up is some Reef Frenzy premium frozen fish food. Donated by our good friend and supporter, Larry DuPont, creator of Reef Frenzy and other Frenzy foods. Multiple chances to win. Stay tuned. More to come.
  9. Never heard anything of the sort. You're first. What have you observed? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  10. Manufacturers claim that brake fluid is hydrophilic and, as were keeping our cars longer the water can lead to corrosion in the lines, master cylinder, etc. , I think. Also reduces braking efficiency since water vaporizers at a lower temp and, with long hard braking can cause gas bubbles in the lines. The other reason is to keep the warranty going. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  11. Honestly, the most valuable part of the setup at this point will be the cylinder (tank) from a resale perspective. Somebody with an understanding of how to refurbish, setup and operate the rest of the system might value the other parts to some extent, but the competition won't be great and, therefore, the price likely won't be much more than a token. A person with the right knowledge, though, could make it work and get some useful life out of it.
  12. Hey Paul. I've been doing brakes on my own for about 40 years now. (Dad was a jet mechanic, but worked on cars alot as a kid and as a young man.) Like you, I expect my local auto parts store to stock them. But, I confess that I have bought them online the last couple of times. In fact, within the next couple of weekends, I'll be changing out the brake fluid on my wife's car. In the past, this would have been a two person job, you know. One person to press and hold the pedal, while I opened the bleeder to drain out some fluid. This go-around, though, I have some sort of vacuum device that's supposed to help me make it a one-person job. It pulls the fluid from the lines and, as long as I keep the master cylinder reasonably full, I can keep air out of the lines while pulling new fluid in and old fluid out. Should be fun. I expect it to take about 60-90 minutes. Nothing like doing it yourself if you can.
  13. I will typically mix anywhere from 30- to 50 gallons at a shot in a 7-gallon mix tank (it easily holds 75 gallons, but is marked to 70). Some time back, I calculated that 1 cup of IO would raise the tank by 0.834 ppt so it's really easy to dial in the full container if I initially mix it a little low.
  14. Man, if we resumed tank tours, I know what two tanks I'd like to visit! ;-)
  15. It probably was before you both came out to see us. But, hard to say, you both look the same. ;-) She's a beautiful (and wonderful) lady. I know that you know that you're a lucky guy!
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