hypertech

It makes sense that it won't go to zero because there is no DI cartridge on that one. The 4th stage is probably a taste and odor filter for drinking water, which you don't need for tank water. So, that is really a three stage. Take a look at these. If you can swing it, the first one is much more upgradable. The second one wil do the job but is basically throw away if you ever need more. http://theh2oguru.com/reefkeepers-rodi/compact-75-gpd-reefkeeper-rodi.html http://theh2oguru.com/reefkeepers-rodi/mighty-mite-50gpd-with-di-added.html

The foam I have is an insulation foam from home depot about a half inch thick. I forget if it is blue or pink or whether that even tells you anything about the density of the foam. On my 75, it can't have depressed more than a mm or two. If you take the tank off, there is a slight impression so its doing something but not much.

I've got a dense foam under mine and it has a frame. I've read all the posts about it and don't really see the issue. For it to stress the bottom, it would have to depress the foam far enough that the foam hits the bottom of the tank. Its not even close. I think the foam helps with my DIY stands that aren't perfectly even to support he frame a little better. So, I tend to use a little foam regardless..

What are the systems you are comparing? The most common is actually 5 stage. 4 is likely short a prefilter. 6 probably has a second DI cartridge. This lets you completely exhaust the first canister while still producing 0 TDS water. In the long run it can save a little money on resin. There are lots of different configurations though so you'd have to link which systems you are comparing to really be able to tell.

I've got my skimmer hooked up to mine with an overflow shut off. Its saved me from a volcano more than once. To do that you need a breakout box. I don't recall if the "gold" comes with one or not. I use an Avast top off sensor that I've installed in the skimmer cup. That is connected to the breakout box. Then, setup a virtual outlet that turns on and off with the switch. Use the virtual outlet to control your skimmer. You can use the switch input without the virtual outlet, but I get confused as to which switch input number is what, so the virtual outlets let you name them.

Mine broke and I just quit using it. You don't really need it for anything other than possibly the first time you setup the network. Is everyone sure its a two wire interface? Mine seemed like it had a fine wire between the two larger conductors. That frayed and it quit working. I know that was the cause because it looked like an insulator or something and I snipped it to stop it from fraying more. It quit working that instant. What looked like the main two wires were never broken. So, if you are going to solder it, might need to look carefully at the wire for all the conductors.

You can dye it too. Though I'm not sure how well red works. You may end up with pink. http://makezine.com/projects/make-30/stain-pvc-any-color-you-like/

I found myself with an extra 1260 and have it listed for sale. I had trouble with the sand bed blowing around from a 1262 and went with the 1260. The thing you have to look when comparing the eheim to others is the flow at head pressure. All the eheims seem to do better with a typical head pressure than the competition with the same zero head rating. I've run them against pumps rated for higher flow and found that the eheim out performed.

Try this stuff with a piece of vinyl. It's not glue so you'll need to make sure the vinyl is flat or tape the edges too. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18280

I'd also upgrade to fusion. No app needed. Just log in via web.

Before doing this, I would take a close look at what you need to tie them together for. By the time you buy a second EB8 and a PM1, you are pretty close to an apex jr in cost to just put one on each tank. The Apex fusion interface is very friendly for multiple controllers. On the home page it will list all of your controllers and you just pick which one you want to view. So, unless you need to control something on one tank based on something on the other tank, or they are close enough together that you are going to plug things from both into the same EB8, setting this up may be more trouble than its worth.

I've had fungia and acans do the same thing.

I've had fish live for months in the overflow. Not on purpose - fish I thought died and turned up in the overflow. Drain it down as far as you can and scoop him out. Then consider something like this: http://www.limpitsreef.com/D-Shaped-Overflow-Cover.html

Try caling Quantum Reef. He's got a plumbing section with all kinds of stuff. Might be one in there.

I'm about to make the switch to Hydra 52s. I needed a new fixture and it seems all the nice looking ones are LED now. Oneo f the reasons I picked the Hydra is because hte LEDs are spread out into 4 "pucks" so I'm hoping it wil have better coverage and less spotlighting. I've had LED actinics for a while now and like them so I'm hoping it will go well.

Mine are staggered by a half degree. I can't are how a half degree could hurt livestock. I once had a bio cube with metal halide. It swung several degrees a day and the tank did great.

I don't think it is the less than 60 issue and I'm not sure I follow the idea that they conflict. That line is in there for a probe failure. Sometimes when they fail they give you a bogus reading way off. If that happens, I want it to shut off the heaters and email me rather than turn on the heaters and cook the tank.

Now that I type this out, I think it is the Set OFF in line 2. At the next execution when temp is starting to climb and reaches 76.5, there is nothing to set it on. Does that sound right?

This is the program for my second heater. Its a larger heater and I intend for it to come on if the first heater can't keep up and push the temp back up higher. If the temp stays below 76.4 for 5 minutes, it is supposed to come on until the tank reaches 77 and then turn off. It also has a min on time of 5 minutes to prevent oscillations. At least, thats what I think it should be doing. It looks like it is kicking on at 76.3 as expected and running about 5 minutes. Then it turns off well before the tank reaches 77. Any ideas why this isn't working as I expect? Fallback OFF Set OFF If Temp < 76.4 Then ON If Temp < 60.0 Then OFF If Temp > 77.0 Then OFF Min Time 005:00 Then ON Defer 005:00 Then ON

Thanks. My water recently started to taste like chlorine so this at least explains why.

For threading something relatively soft like PVC, couldn't you just use a brass fitting as a tap?

Mine seems to be around a quarter inch. It's slightly less sensitive than a float but definitely workable.

Quantum Reefs is nearby for those needing a fix.

I have a 75 with 2x250 and a strip of blue LEDs. Most my lps are fine and growing on the bottom. I do have a frogspawn that isn't growing much but it's six inches from a hammer that is doing great. So, I think the answer - it's probably fine.

Bars by bud will do it. Might be a couple bucks more, not sure, but no waiting and no swapping.