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About AlanM

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    WAMAS President
  • Birthday 10/26/1971

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    Gaithersburg, MD

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  1. What happened to the tank that the BTA and SPS all croaked?
  2. The drain and return has not much to do with in tank circulation. You should match the amount draining out with the amount you can comfortably get over your overflow with good surface skimming but without a lot of splashing and make sure it's enough that you aren't skimming the same water in the sump over and over because you aren't moving enough water through it. If you're adapting a reef ready plumbing kit (usually with one big hole and one small hole) to a Herbie configuration use the narrow hole for the full siphon with a gate valve down by the sump and the wider one as your emergency. The small one will carry more than enough water for most tanks while in full siphon, even if it's just a 3/4" one. The larger diameter emergency will then be guaranteed to carry the whole flow if the siphon plugs up. If you run them with the large one as the full siphon, there's no guarantee that the narrow one can take the whole flow going down the larger one in siphon and you could end up with water on the floor. You'll fight with a ball valve trying to get the siphon dialed in so that the water level is at the right spot in the overflow box to prevent splashing there, but save a few bucks buying a ball valve instead of a gate valve if you really want to. It's not what I would do. The check valve on the return can be nice even if you design your sump so that it can take all of the back-siphon when the pump shuts off. It's just convenient not to have it all drain into the sump sometimes. I never put in check valves because I always did water changes from the sump. I wanted the back-siphon to fill the sump so I could then kick on a little utility pump in the sump to push out the old water, then fill it up with new, then turn on the main pump to let it all settle down again.
  3. The red line is the valve (gate or ball) with a restricted flow of water going through it. The one on the right with the valve on the bottom will fill with water (and have the air purged) faster because the restriction is at the bottom. Also, don't put the termination of the plumbing way under the water level of your sump because you'll have to push all of that water out in order to then push the air out to get your siphon going. End the plumbing run just barely under the water level of your sump. Since the Herbie drain system doesn't have air in it, you won't get lots of salt spray like you would with a Durso.
  4. No, but it's easier to purge the air out of the line to start the siphon going if the line has no interruptions on the way down to the sump. Which pipe will fill with water faster when your return pump is turned on and the overflow starts flowing? As long as the plumbing ends just barely under the water line and not submerged way down the siphon should be able to start either way, though.
  5. I don't know what kind of drain system you're using, but I never like horizontal runs like that in my drains. At least it gives me pause. It looks like you're using a "herbie" setup with the horizontal one as the emergency, though, so that seems OK to me. I'd put the valve way down in the sump as near the water surface as convenient, not up as a horizontal section. The valve is supposed to go close to the water surface.
  6. My guess is that the chlorine would get removed by the carbon filter stages before the RO filter, but I'm not totally sure of that. A little bit of chlorine might be OK for growing plants, though, to keep the mold down. Not as OK if you're also growing fish in it.
  7. I haven't seen that happen, but I admit that I haven't actually looked for it. I always have bio films (slimy tubing and surfaces) in my DI container, though, which shouldn't happen with no nutrients in 0TDS water, yet always happened so I might have had some in there too. Wonder if the material that can is made from lets it out if it isn't NSF certified like the Brute cans are? Just speculation. I also wonder if it might be chloramine in the water which isn't effectively being removed by your RO/DI. It's hard to remove, and I guess could break down over time to add some ammonia to the water that might not be detectable as ammonia on a test kit before it has broken down into components. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloramine What's the ammonia PPM of that test vial you're showing there?
  8. It's a good idea. We can judge interest and order. So far the order is based upon relative sizes from the MACNA shirt experiences and guessing that the sizes of the WAMAS membership might mimic the size distribution of the MACNA attendees. Part of the cost is setup of the screens for the printing, so once they have them we should be able to get additional without a large overhead charge if ordering from the same company. This company is local to DC, so I can just go pick them up and not pay lots for shipping. Also, I hadn't even considered v-necks because I think they're weird, but if others like them we'll order some. 8)
  9. I feel young every day knowing that your reef is older than me.
  10. Here's a better mock-up showing the two colors. We expect them soon.
  11. Off topic, but are those the AI powerheads in the display tank behind him? They blend in pretty well.
  12. Isaac, you have a little reef doing great. You could probably run one of the little ones in your sump.
  13. I'm a big believer in them for nutrient export. All of the santa monica ones are really cool.
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