blaze98

Chris mentioned them to me this weekend, but I was wondering if anyone is using the 22000k bulb and if you know how does it compare to the ATI blue plus.

I have been squirted by palys on several occasions, the most it ever did was make me feel a little nauseous and look like I had pink eye but it went away in one day.

Randy Holmes Farley is a chemist by profession and a reefer also, he does tests on various things and writes very good articles for the reefing community. Here is a link to one of his articles.... advanced aquarist

When I first bought my sunpod one ballast would fire a couple of minutes, sometimes up to 30, after the first ballast fired up. The problem corrected itself after a month or so on a timer. Now both ballast fire up at the same time.

@Forrest...I don't have any crabs in the fuge, only stomatella's and asterina stars. Mark, I will definitely give some of your cheato a try .

Thanks for all the input guys. Cabrego, I am using a 6500k CF bulb from home depot and my pH hovers around 8.0. Maybe I will give the powerhead another try, I only left it in for a week before I dismissed it. The thing that is confusing me is that it starts off as the spaghetti type as zogote mentions, but after 3 weeks or so it ends up as the brillo pad tightly wadded type. I have no problem getting the cheato to grow in my 30 gallon fish only tank and the lighting is NO bulbs, it stays tringy in this tank and there is only a koralia 3 in there.

smaller pieces fall off then it gets hard, it will shrink from the size of a softball to the size of a baseball and no new growth appears

I threw a powerhead in there for a week or so but all that did was keep drawing the cheato into the intake and seem to make it break down faster.

For some strange reason my cheato keeps dying. If I put in a fresh batch of cheato within a few days it will turn hard and thick as opposed to thin and stringy like it is when it arrives. After replacing my fuge light and seeing no difference I am thinking it may be an issue of flow through the sump. I have my fuge light on a reverse schedule as my main tank and I have tried a 24 hour cycle. The 24 hour light cycle normally leads to cyano in my fuge and only my fuge. My sump is designed with the drain section first, the return area, and a fuge on the far left. I have a ball valve controlling how much water enters the fuge area, but even open completely it doesn't seem to help the issue of flow. The problem I think I have is that my cheato doesn't tumble, is this necessary for proper cheato growth? If this is the case I may have to redesign my sump.

All of them are worth checking out. I would stop by Roozen's if you are looking for fish, can't say the customer service is the best, but Pristine is definitely worth the drive, they are particularly helpful and friendly.

Roozens is on Allentown road, Pristine and Wally's are both right across the WW bridge

Oh man that sucks, it was looking so beautiful too. I still have the bonsai for you and a few more frags you can have.

I don't know if I am more disturbed by the giant coral eating worm, or the discussion of proper preparation techniques to eat said worm

10 gallons are difficult to fit those baffles into because it is only 20" long, not to say it can't be done, but it won't leave you room for a large fuge.

I got mine from BRK, he had a bunch of different sizes.

The only time I swing sticks at balls is when people owe me money, but I hope you guys have fun

I found that water changes work the best on my tanks, you just have to be consistent with them, I change 10% weekly and I like the growth that I get. I tried the 20% every 2 weeks for 2 months, but my corals didn't seem to like that schedule. I still dose Prodibio in my main tank every 2 weeks, but I think they make a kit specifically for nano's.

They should make that a motto or something...."screwing people over since '06"

I got some stuff from him a few months ago. Him and my wife work on the same military base.

That is insane

thanks guys, I will get some better pics once I get some baffles for my sump and everything the way I want it.

Unfortunately I got a lot done when I left my camera at work. I started the tank with sand from my main tanks fuge and water and rock from my main tank. I expected very little cycle, I actually got it up and running pretty quick. I got the back painted and went with pvc and flex tubing for the return, it is a 1/2 inch connected to a Mag 3 for the return. Pete from BRK was a big help in getting my return put together and one of the reasons this project got completed so quickly. The drain is 1 inch pvc and drains to the sump that has approx. 20 lbs. of LR and some cheato. There is a single Koralia nano in the tank for extra flow. I didn't think the hydor I had in the tank was enough so I am adding a 150w stealth heater, it is going in the sump tonight. I am planning on putting a Remora with a Mag 5 as the pump in the sump to provide skimming, the AC 70 is only temporary. The light is a Nova extreme 39w x 4 bulb (thanks Peacetypes6). I was going to build my own t-5 retro but I got this was a deal too good to pass up. It has one 10k 1 actinic, a giessman aquablue, and an aquaz ocean blue. There are a few test frags in there, some kenya trees, to make sure the tank is doing fine. Tests are all reading normal params, so I am loving it so far. I placed 2 true percs from my fuge into the tank, they have been doing fine and have been eating mysis and Rod's food for the last 3 days. Some pics.... Return into tank Sump Cheato Returns tank and sump

The tank is a 20L (thanks Jason). I drilled it myself with a borrowed 1 inch drill bit (thanks Justin).

I want to thank the many Wamas and Cmas members and local fish stores that helped me get this tank up and running. I built the tank stand myself, I got the wood cut at Home Depot to the lengths I needed and just put it together like IKEA furniture .

I picked up a gate valve from BRK and I plan on doing the gate valve mod to my CS6-1. I checked out Euroreef's pdf on the gate valve mod and it looks like you got it perfect, down to the t lining up with the seem on the neck of the skimmer. I still have to get the t, and some extra PVC, I think 1.5" is the only size I don't have. The gate valve is 1.5" and slips over the outlet of my skimmer. I will try to get some pics once I get the materials.