monkiboy's 265g build thread

[AlanM]

thanks alan and evan! i was consulting with scott yesterday who was over looking things over to see if i missed anything (and i did) and i think a 4' overflow in the center like evan or someone mentioned a diagonal internal overflow with an external overflow with my herbie or bean style drains.

 

does anyone have a picture of this setup? i think someone mentioned dave (coral hind) has one but i did not see it in his photos in his build thread. i remember seeing it a couple years ago on RC/R2R somewhere but can't find it.

 

this way, it'll even further minimze the amount of space taken INSIDE the tank and instead of a 45° maybe 60° ro so for less space but still some nice soft cascading action.

 

any other tips or ideas about this design? how many holes to drill to allow water into the external box and size?

 

Here are some internal/external posts on the massive BeanAnimal thread on RC:

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21129016#post21129016

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21093760&postcount=5533

 

and a thread about the slanted internal overflow with the Reef Central BeanAnimal expert/crankyguy, uncleof6 posting his diagram for the holes between the internal and external boxes:

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2252278

[Der ABT]

http://wamas.org/forums/topic/28815-inbox-overflow/

[AlanM]

I know your dad's a GC and you probably have access to good tools, but if you need help doing this:

 

 

for the BeanAnimal overflow let me know. I can make one for you, as I have nice drill presses and taps and stuff at work.

 

Also, if you just do an internal box and want to minimize space behind the tank that the plumbing sticks out, you can saw off some of the adapters to get them to fit flush into the plumbing. I sawed off about 3/4 inch from the bulkhead and from the 1 to 1-1/2" PVC coupling that goes into the 1-1/2" sanitary Tee:

 

[monkiboy]

is that first photo take a slip PVC cap into a 1/2" murlok fitting? how would one utilize that or are you just speaking generally about other parts of the set up? regardless, thanks for the offer of help!

 

i can't even begin to figure out my plumbing right now. i really need to sit and draw it up/out to avoid heachaes and changes and waste.

 

i still need to get the floor protected with bath liner or equivalent, redguard my stand, platform and other areas, install whatever overflow i settle on, drill, and then perhaps begin plumbing...ahhh!

[AlanM]

Redguard is a good idea. What about this for the walls?

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_8566-293-FTSTF.1_4294934297__?productId=3162499

 

The PVC cap is a threaded 1-1/2" cap tapped for a 1/4"NPT x 3/8" murlok. The BeanAnimal overflow has three drains, one of which is an "open channel" which converts to a full siphon when a little vent tube gets blocked by water. This cap goes on top of the "open channel" one like on the far right of the first image here:

 

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

[DaveS]

I have a 4' external overflow on my 6' tank. There should be pics in my build thread.

[monkiboy]

first build temporary stand to hold tank -

 

 

 

 

next "redguard" the stand! a few coats on the platform and lower part of the stand and two coats everywhere else.

 

 

 

 

then mud, skim, sand, sand some more paint wall and trim!

 

 

 

 

looking good so far!

Edited April 5, 2013 by monkiboy

[YHSublime]

Something you might want to consider before putting everything up is an idea another forum member passed to me, tinting the back glass. Instead of painting it, using a heavy tint so you really have to stare hard through to see behind, but could still do so. It's a suttle touch, and IMO it looks classy.

[monkiboy]

Something you might want to consider before putting everything up is an idea another forum member passed to me, tinting the back glass. Instead of painting it, using a heavy tint so you really have to stare hard through to see behind, but could still do so. It's a suttle touch, and IMO it looks classy.

thanks for the input. i want to be able to see clearly from the back for coral placement, things that get stuck there, maintenance, etc so i'm going to put together three or four removable black acrylic pieces that hang in place and can be easily removed/set aside when i need to see from the back.

[YHSublime]

thanks for the input. i want to be able to see clearly from the back for coral placement, things that get stuck there, maintenance, etc so i'm going to put together three or four removable black acrylic pieces that hang in place and can be easily removed/set aside when i need to see from the back.

 

Nice! Good thinking! I'm hoping either my GSP or coraline algae cover the back of mine, such a rush to get it up I didn't even think about it. But I don't mind the whole glass box thing. It's really coming together for you!

[howaboutme]

I love the red color. Good choice. The big builds are always so exciting to follow. Good luck finishing.

 

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[monkiboy]

I love the red color. Good choice. The big builds are always so exciting to follow. Good luck finishing.

yeah, redguard is awesome stuff. i've made waterproof containers out of cardboard and redguard just for kicks. it's really neat stuff. thank you!

[Cliff Puckstable]

Nice work, braj. You got a lot done.

[monkiboy]

Nice work, braj. You got a lot done.

thanks bud. doing some caulking now around the inside of the exterior trim to seal off any moisture from getting through then calling it a night.

[steveoutlaw]

You can look at my Bean Animal when you stop by today. It's really easy to do.

[monkiboy]

You can look at my Bean Animal when you stop by today. It's really easy to do.

sounds good!

[monkiboy]

on the topic of pumps!

 

what say you kind people of WAMAS? i want to run two external. one solely to pump water to the tank upstairs and i think i'll be running a panworld 250PS and i'll likely need to throttle it back or run a portion of it back through the sump or to another tank.

 

then i want to have another pump for the 265. what is a great overall turn over rate to maximize efficiency and effectiveness of my skimmer (contact time)? i was told 3-5x, i think. so that would put me around 2000gph because of total volume (265(main)+46(upstairs)+90(sump)), is that right? i was thinking something along the lines of a DC10000 or their 120000 or higher when it comes out soon. then i'd run this with a manifold and use it for my reactors as well and have a few open ports available to minimize pumps in the way in the sump and power consumption of additional pumps. then rely on a few vortechs in tank for the rest of the required circulation.

 

i have two MP40w ES and two MP10w ES. think this will suffice for flow in the tank or perhaps i should upgrade to two more or swap to two MP60s? i'm pretty set on vortechs due to their design and no cords in the tank.

 

any suggestions on pump selection

[DBL]

2 MP60, less pumps inside the tank that 2 mp40 and 2 mp10 plus I think it will look much cleaner

[monkiboy]

2 MP60, less pumps inside the tank that 2 mp40 and 2 mp10 plus I think it will look much cleaner

yeah but I definitely think I'll need more than two pumps in a 265. 7 feet long and 30" tall is a lot of space to move water in especially flow for SPS. maybe two mp60s on the ends and two mp40s in the back panel and mp10s back panel up higher?

 

and faux bare bottom? thats how I'm leaning now for max flow and easy maintenance. thoughts?

Edited April 5, 2013 by monkiboy

[AlanM]

yeah but I definitely think I'll need mour than two pumps in a 265. 7 feet long and 30" tall is a lot of space to move water in especially flow for SPS. maybe two mp60s on the ends and two mp40s in the back panel and mp10s back panel up higher?

 

and faux bare bottom? thats how I'm leaning now for max flow and easy maintenance. thoughts?

 

Mby start with what you have now and add MP60s in the future if you really need them. You're not going to immediately drop expensive SPS in there anyway.

 

By faux bare bottom do you mean the white cutting board stuff with sand glued to it like was mentioned recently? If you're not getting fish or inverts that like to live in sand, it seems like the way to go in my opinion. You'd get the look without the headache.

[YHSublime]

Old reefer has starboard, many suggested it before I started my build, wish I went with it some days. I think my next build will be bare bottom, especially if I go bigger.

 

based of the mp40 flow (which is all I have to base off) your flow ideas sounds good, but allan had a good point. Doesn't ecotech hasn't a flow calculator on their website? Don't know how legit it is...

 

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[steveoutlaw]

Two Tunze 6105s will handle that tank nicely......and not as loud as Vortechs. You saw my tank today.......that has 2 6105s and they have the jumper in the slow the flow. Eric Leeds has 2 on a 72" tank and he could use the more powerful jumper either. You won't regret it.

[sachabballi reef]

Two Tunze 6105s will handle that tank nicely......and not as loud as Vortechs. You saw my tank today.......that has 2 6105s and they have the jumper in the slow the flow. Eric Leeds has 2 on a 72" tank and he could use the more powerful jumper either. You won't regret it.

I have two 6105s and they are so silent sometimes I have to get close to make sure they are running lol...amazing flow...

 

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[monkiboy]

did some caulking late last night...

 

[monkiboy]

today was almost all spent on electrical, running wire, new circuits, GFI galore, t5 lighting under the stand and behind the tank and entrance to room and switches to control most things. i wanted three 20A circuit and circuit GFI triggered together. it took a lot time and still not done.