DaveS July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Haven't read this thread in a bit so I'm catching up. I've had the same 3 situations you've brought up recently. 1) like Tom said, make sure you insulate that area above the tank. Otherwise the moisture can/will cause the wood above to warp which will in turn warp the floor upstairs. If it's carpeted maybe it's not a big deal but if it's hardwood that's be bad. I've have a little spot in my house above the tank that looks "funny". 2) I used RO/DI waste to test fill the tank. From there you can do laundry, flush toilets, water the grass or whatever people do with grey water. 3) I had to shim my tank about 1/4". Drained the tank about 10% (normal water change) and then used a car jack. Went surprisingly easy! Good to have an extra set of hands with you when the tank is jacked up in the air... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 Haven't read this thread in a bit so I'm catching up. I've had the same 3 situations you've brought up recently. 1) like Tom said, make sure you insulate that area above the tank. Otherwise the moisture can/will cause the wood above to warp which will in turn warp the floor upstairs. If it's carpeted maybe it's not a big deal but if it's hardwood that's be bad. I've have a little spot in my house above the tank that looks "funny". 2) I used RO/DI waste to test fill the tank. From there you can do laundry, flush toilets, water the grass or whatever people do with grey water. 3) I had to shim my tank about 1/4". Drained the tank about 10% (normal water change) and then used a car jack. Went surprisingly easy! Good to have an extra set of hands with you when the tank is jacked up in the air... thanks for checking in! i already have the tank filling with RO/DI after giving it a nice cleaning and then drying it. pretty exciting! tom/dave - if i red gard all exposed wood above the tank where i opened that space, should that take care of the issues you see happening? that was my plan. there is insulation throughout the rest of the ceiling in that space that has not been opened. or what other solution might you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 holy cow i almost have a 1/10 of my tank fullllllll!!!!! why am i so excited?!!!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 It starts out feeling like it's going fast, but it'll take a little while. For some reason, time slows down. It did for me at least. I would insulate the cavity going back under the drywall or put up some kind of vapor barrier to keep humid air from traveling back deep and maybe getting back to the rim joist. I'm cautious that way - especially about places that don't have much airflow or places I can't get in and inspect frequently for trouble. As for directly above the tank, red guarding it may be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExoticReefCreations July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 I was over there the other day, this is going to be one phenomenal tank once it is filled! Marco great job with this build it is very nice and clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 It starts out feeling like it's going fast, but it'll take a little while. For some reason, time slows down. It did for me at least. I would insulate the cavity going back under the drywall or put up some kind of vapor barrier to keep humid air from traveling back deep and maybe getting back to the rim joist. I'm cautious that way - especially about places that don't have much airflow or places I can't get in and inspect frequently for trouble. As for directly above the tank, red guarding it may be just fine. great. so redgard AND vapor barrier it is. i like to take the extra precaution now as well. thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 I was over there the other day, this is going to be one phenomenal tank once it is filled! Marco great job with this build it is very nice and clean!thanks, richard - i appreciate the support! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 I was over there the other day, this is going to be one phenomenal tank once it is filled! Marco great job with this build it is very nice and clean! You can tell that Marco's an excellent craftsman. Great job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 so bare bottom or sand bottom? i was thinking of having some a very thin layer of hawaiian black and fiji pink. enough to host some sleepy wrasses but not enough to get swept up in the crazy flow i plan to have in this tank. i expect parts to be bare bottom in sections. maybe put black pvc sheet on the bottom of the tank so red gard from the stand isn't seen through in those sections? seeing how this will be plumbed into my existing nem/clown tank (46g bow) upstairs that has been running for years, i don't anticipate too much of a cycle. i guess i get the external overflow done, let it cure while doing all the plumbing, install sump and pumps, and then get both systems integrated and flowing. once they are, then slowly start adding my rock structures to the 265 to allow the bacterial population to catch up with each piece added? opinions wanted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 I would suggest starboard or your mix of light sand and starboard. IMO the look of it is more natural. I do appreciate and understand a sand less tank though.... Tough call. One piece at a time sounds killer (like with time) but I'm not a Dr.... Why don't you let it run through a cycle and then plumb together, do you expect it will be easier and faster to add rock as Your clown tank adjusts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohaverd July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Has anyone ever thought of using a dehumidifier that drains back into the ATO resevoir? That might take care of the moister problem, but I don't know the quality of water that comes out of the "dehumidifying" process; if its something you want back in your tank... I use one in my basement that drains into the deep sink, I run it for 4 hours a day during the peak ours of my lighting. It has definately decreased the moisture caused by the tank, but it is also pulling water out of the tank a little faster than normally. RO/DI filters are cheaper than warped floor boards I say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Has anyone ever thought of using a dehumidifier that drains back into the ATO resevoir? That might take care of the moister problem, but I don't know the quality of water that comes out of the "dehumidifying" process; if its something you want back in your tank... Dirty stuff. It's not pure water. It's taking out water, dust that settles into the water, other volatiles that can condense, etc. Plus, bacteria often grow in the trays and on the coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 I would suggest starboard or your mix of light sand and starboard. IMO the look of it is more natural. I do appreciate and understand a sand less tank though.... Tough call. One piece at a time sounds killer (like with time) but I'm not a Dr.... Why don't you let it run through a cycle and then plumb together, do you expect it will be easier and faster to add rock as Your clown tank adjusts? i could let this tank go through it's own cycle with all the rock structures and then plumb all systems together - that IS another idea. i figured getting it plumbed together would jump start and speed up the cycle of the large one as the bacterial population of the tank upstairs would quickly begin to populate the 265 and there would be very little cycle adding a few of the rock structures at a time. anyone know if there is a benefit or better way of doing this? Has anyone ever thought of using a dehumidifier that drains back into the ATO resevoir? That might take care of the moister problem, but I don't know the quality of water that comes out of the "dehumidifying" process; if its something you want back in your tank... I use one in my basement that drains into the deep sink, I run it for 4 hours a day during the peak ours of my lighting. It has definately decreased the moisture caused by the tank, but it is also pulling water out of the tank a little faster than normally. RO/DI filters are cheaper than warped floor boards I say... i have a window on the exterior wall which is four feet behind the tank so humidity so be easily controlled. like tom said, when i run my dehumidifer the water comes out looking like sewage water, no way i would use that for anything but waste. Dirty stuff. It's not pure water. It's taking out water, dust that settles into the water, other volatiles that can condense, etc. Plus, bacteria often grow in the trays and on the coils.tom, what are your thoughts on my questions of substrate, when to plumb together, cycling, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohaverd July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Dirty stuff. It's not pure water. It's taking out water, dust that settles into the water, other volatiles that can condense, etc. Plus, bacteria often grow in the trays and on the coils. ya thats what I figured, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 i could let this tank go through it's own cycle with all the rock structures and then plumb all systems together - that IS another idea. i figured getting it plumbed together would jump start and speed up the cycle of the large one as the bacterial population of the tank upstairs would quickly begin to populate the 265 and there would be very little cycle adding a few of the rock structures at a time. anyone know if there is a benefit or better way of doing this? tom, what are your thoughts on my questions of substrate, when to plumb together, cycling, etc? I was under the impression you were going to add rock slowly while it was plumbed in with your clown tank. My thought was that as you added each piece of rock to your new tank, you would have to wait for it to adjust being plumbed in with your clown tank. It's hard for me to get a read on if you're in a rush again to get this going, or if you're alright with letting it cycle on it's own and then plumb together. I figured that instead of adding dry rock on piece at a time being plumbed in with your clown tank, it might be just as quick to let the tank cycle and then plumb them together. That way everything would be cycled and caught up, and you would have the benefit of a nicely established tank filtering in with it. I don't know which one makes more sense, I was hoping that maybe you would! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 (edited) she's filling up fast! Edited July 19, 2013 by monkiboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Better get that overflow box on the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott711 July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 In my build I added starboard to the bottom because I didn't want a large sand bed. It has worked out fine. Is the rock going into the large tank live rock? I am kind on the fence about plumbing together in the beginning. I think I would run all the plumbing to put them together, but cycle the large tank separately since the anemone's are more delicate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohaverd July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 probably covered earlier in the thread, but are you going to cover the back of the tank with something? a track curtain would be cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 In my build I added starboard to the bottom because I didn't want a large sand bed. It has worked out fine. Is the rock going into the large tank live rock? I am kind on the fence about plumbing together in the beginning. I think I would run all the plumbing to put them together, but cycle the large tank separately since the anemone's are more delicate. That's a good idea, unless the rock is fully cycled and clean to prevent any nutrient spikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboy July 19, 2013 Author Share July 19, 2013 (edited) Better get that overflow box on the back. i know, i know!! just so busy with everything else...no time! seeing water in the tank has definitely encouraged no-sleep-marco to come out and play though, haha. In my build I added starboard to the bottom because I didn't want a large sand bed. It has worked out fine. Is the rock going into the large tank live rock? I am kind on the fence about plumbing together in the beginning. I think I would run all the plumbing to put them together, but cycle the large tank separately since the anemone's are more delicate. do they sell black starboard? or maybe i can find black sheet PVC? i know there are some benefits to a light-colored sand bed for light and illuminating corals from various angles but i really like the contrast a darker sandbed creates so i'm thinking predominantly hawaiian black with a mix of lighter fiji pink to soften the drama a bit. the rock will be custom synthetic ceramic rock structures so definitely not live. thanks for your input. perhaps allowing the 265 to cycle completely and independently is best. i just didn't think adding 265g+ of volume without anything causing waste would be an issue and in this manner i could allow the 265 to be integrated sooner and slowly start adding my rock structures to the 265 allowing the bacterial population to expand and grow while essentially having if anything a mini-cycle or not having any cycle at all and quick-starting everything. probably covered earlier in the thread, but are you going to cover the back of the tank with something? a track curtain would be cool. i thought of removable black sheets of acrylic but with all the plumbing and the external overflow it gets complicated for anything other than painting, tinting, etc now before the external gets installed. i wanted to be able to see through the back when i wanted to if anything fell, required adjustment, etc to be able to easily reach and see it but doesn't seem feasible. That's a good idea, unless the rock is fully cycled and clean to prevent any nutrient spikes. so since the rock will be new synthetic ceramic rock there will be no nutrient spikes of any sort, what are your thoughts on my next steps, dave? Edited July 19, 2013 by monkiboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridetheducati July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Initially, I would treat the 265g as a separate system instead of an extension of the 46g system. Connect the two established systems after the new system is fully cycled. 1. Continue to collect live rock (dead or live), preferably dead, see step #4. Obtain at least 85% of rock before starting step #4. 2. Work out plumbing and overflow issues. 3. Starboard or shallow sand. Very difficult decision. Thinking long term may help you decide. Can you live with a coralline algae based bottom in 3-5 years? 4. Take your time aquascaping. I prefer a dry aquascape as you can use MarcoRocks bonding mortar to create stunning features. 5. Cycle the tank and rock 4-6 weeks. 6. Connect 265g to 46g system 7. Work out plumbing issues if needed 8. Slowly stock 265g. 9. Enjoy the fruits of your labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridetheducati July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 Have you decided where you are getting the ceramic rock? I have seen several stunning reefs using Riffsystem. DSPS on RC not too long ago removed all his liverock and replaced with ceramic. Having said that, there are a few reefers who had a different experience. Expect to see a small cycle when using inert materials as bacteria have to colonize the surfaces. You can find Starboard in every color of the rainbow. Do you play chess? lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 He'd told me he was going to go with some structures from Cerameco http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/blog/CeramEco-Vida-Rock/ I'm considering it too for at least some of it. Built-in frag plug holders... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime July 19, 2013 Share July 19, 2013 He'd told me he was going to go with some structures from Cerameco http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/blog/CeramEco-Vida-Rock/ I'm considering it too for at least some of it. Built-in frag plug holders... That is neaaaaaat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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