cpu933k

The main reason I tune it every few days is because of the trickle down the e-drain. The tank sits outside my home office, so I want it to be dead silent. I actually hired Rob (zygote2k) to do my plumbing. He wanted to do a dual durso, but since my 75g reef is herbie and I know how quiet a herbie is, I didn't want to chance it with a dual durso and then having to replumb it to herbie if the durso was too loud for my liking. The plumbing does take up a good chunk of real estate, but I still think it is worth it for the silence. Here are some photos of my setup (sorry, I don't have any photos of just the plumbing - before I added all the other gear). Below Right Overflow: Below Left Overflow: The right overflow and both e-drains are plumbed to drain into this filter sock: Here is how I have the returns come back over the top - I utilized the cutouts in the overflow: Here's what the back of the tank looks like: I purposely had the plumbing a few inches off of the glass for ease of back glass cleaning with the flipper.

For my 125 with dual overflows, I did a dual herbie. I used the 1 inch drains for the siphon and the 3/4 in for the emergency. I have the return come over the top of the tank. I do need to adjust both of the siphons every few days, but it's not that big of a deal.

Thanks for the tips!

I have had orders shipped to ups customer service centers and held for pickup when retailers offered that service (often with a discount). How do you do this when that is not an option that retailers provide? I saw above that someone said put the customer service center as the shipping address, but then when do you/can you request for it to be held for pickup?

Very Nice. Who's nipping at the regal?

I wasn't even aware petco sold larger tanks. Largest I've ever seen at a petco is a 55.

First rule of unexplained aberrant results is to test again, especially if you didn't do the first test yourself. Then check the test kit with a different one.

And optical zoom.

I use foscam. Cheap and good video quality.

Yikes. What happened?

Awesome.

Here's another article I came across on a different forum. It's pretty in-depth and I'm still making my way through it: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

Centreville aquarium posted a photo of one on their Facebook page as well.

Capital Aquarium listed a porcupine puffer on their stocklist they put out on Wednesday.

Love the scape. That second photo looks like a gremlim signaling a touchdown.

I've had pretty good luck with jebaos powerheads. I only had 1 out of 6 die on me so far I decided to try my luck again with a dct12000. It worked for 10 seconds, then died :( Didn't want to test my luck again, so ordered a vectra. Works great so far and dead silent.

It depends what you are using the sterilizer for - parasite control or algae/bacteria control. For parasites, you need longer contact times, so lower flowrates. For algae/bacteria, less contact time is needed, so higher flowrates. See this DFS article: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?articleid=440 The low contact time recommendation for reef tanks has to do with planktonic food supply. Not really sure how much would get killed at greater contact times (lower flowrates) and whether that would have any noticeable effect on a reef tank.

I still see $799 when I click on the link...

how about eggcrate?

Same thing just happened to me. Try contacting Rob (zygote2k). I ended up repairing it myself. Is your tank full or empty? Mine was empty. First contact the tank manufacturer to see if they sell replacement trims (you may have to order it through a LFS). Mine was a AGA/Aqueon and they said they stopped selling replacements. I was able to buy one from here: http://www.aquariumframeswholesale.com When the trim came in, I got a hacksaw blade and cut out all the old trim (make sure your tank is halfway empty), 4-6 inches at a time, (it's tedious, but any more than that you risk cracking your glass when pulling off the trim) and then cleaned off all the silicone. I followed this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rAJfaSEUp58 Put silicone on the new trim and put it on with something heavy on top of it to hold it down while the silicone cures (24 hours). If your tank is not empty, it will be difficult because when cutting the trim, all that plastic debris will fall into the tank. If the tank is not empty, I would try something like this: https://reefbuilders.com/2014/03/19/stupid-plastic-center-brace/

That tank is awfully close to your soundbar and tv. I'd be worried about splashing/evaporation/humidity/salt creep.

I think what Dr. Tims was trying to sell was how fast you could cycle using his product. In my case, when starting with dry rock, dry sand, following his directions, it still took me like 12 weeks to cycle.

Don't get your hopes up for the Salifert. I can never distinguish between the Salifert colors at the low range. API to its credit is easier to read/distinguish between 0/0.25/0.5

Things are going well. Been accumulating sps frags. Challenge now is where to mount them. I may have to break up that big monti cap that is taking up way too much prime real estate. Fish are fine except for my royal gramma. The hawkfish beat him up pretty bad so I had to remove him. Got a bartlett's anthias in QT now. Equipment wise - I upgraded to MP40QDs and Radion G3 Pros as well as Turbo's Algae Scrubber and Avast Pegleg 180.

I think the article's author didn't cycle properly. It took me over 12 weeks to cycle using dry rock, Dr. Tim's, and dosing ammonia. He cycled the tank by soaking the dry rock with tank water (of which there will not be much bacteria in the water) for 6 weeks and added some bacteria cultures (maybe he did not add enough), but it also didn't seem like he had a source of ammonia,