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Jon Lazar

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About Jon Lazar

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  • Birthday 12/06/1967

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    Alexandria, VA

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  1. I wouldn't mess around with concrete. You're going to have a hard time making a well-shaped form that's level on top and thick enough not to crack. 3/4" slope over a 24" span is a lot of slope! Is there something going on with the floor you need to fix? Is it something simple like a carpet tack strip at the base of the wall? If you can't level the floor and don't want to use shims or leveling feet, I would just tear the base of the stand apart and redo it with the right slope built in.
  2. I use braided metal lines on my RO/DI for the part that's always under pressure (between the water source and the control solenoid). The braided lines are compression thread, and the RODI uses pipe thread, so you have to buy fittings that are compression on one side and pipe thread on the other. Pretty sure I found the braided line and all the fittings at Home Depot. Another option is to buy a water cooler and sign up for delivery service.
  3. Red sponge slug - In general, ornamental sponges grow slowly and don't thrive in captivity. Being eaten by a slug won't help. Being eaten by hundreds of baby slugs will be even less helpful. The slug will continue to lay eggs so long as it has food to eat. White thing- Can't tell what it is from the picture. Describe it. Is it alive? Is it hard like a crab or soft like a slug? Does it have legs? How many? Anemone-probably aiptasia with curly tentacles. The oral disk also looks like aiptasia. IME peppermint shrimp excel at eating aiptasia, but they don't mess with the kinds of anemones we like to collect. Keep the frag with the peppermint shrimp. Creepy tentacle-A harmless detrivore; maybe a spaghetti worm. Safe for mushroom corals.
  4. IIRC, the Aquabus 12v power has very low amperage and is only capable of carrying a signal; not powering a device. Neptune goes to great lengths warning people not to plug their USB devices into the Aquabus port.
  5. I would research their natural depth and environment to help narrow your search,
  6. Remove the sediment filter and carbon block from inside their housings and re-run your checks. If TDS is still higher, then it's an instrumentation error. If TDS #2 drops so that it's the same at both locations, then the filter or carbon block is releasing tiny amounts of dust. You can run additional checks with different combinations to figure out which is causing the increase. Either way, I wouldn't worry about a slight rise in measured TDS _before_ the RO membrane. The sediment filter and carbon block aren't intended to reduce TDS anyway. The RO membrane will take care of nearly all the TDS, and the DI will remove whatever gets by the RO.
  7. I crosschecked it with calibration fluid, but I may mix up some of the RHF just for fun. Good idea about mixing the salt mix. My first batch of water was 50 gallons. I thoroughly shook up the bucket of remaining salt, and my next 50 gallon batch was just as bad.
  8. 35ppt salinity, and 640 Mg. Tested with refractometer and Salifert test kits.
  9. I don't normally test my new saltwater for water changes, but I recently mixed up a large batch of water using IO salt and just happened to test. Alk was only 4.5dKh, and Ca was 250. I point that out because variability in water change water can also mess with your alk trend.
  10. You need to replace the fitting. The fitting will be under pressure with any kind of an auto shutoff valve. Grip the broken part with pliers and unscrew the fitting. Or use a slotted screwdriver to unscrew the fitting. If that doesn't work, buy an inexpensive bolt extractor.
  11. I had to tighten mine a couple times at first to get it to stop dripping, but it's held fine for the past 5 years.
  12. That's a great idea. Make a 5 gal bucket worth of saltwater and 5 gal for the Brute trash can. Put them next to one another in the same room, and compare ammonia between the two. If ammonia rises in the Brute and not the bucket, then the problem is with the Brute.
  13. If you had a wide diameter pipe and a mostly-closed valve like in Alan's sketch above. And the end of your drain pipe is not submerged in the sump. Then water would fill the upper portion of the drain pipe, but only a small stream would squirt past the valve into the bottom pipe. The water would "fall" through the bottom pipe into the sump due to gravity, instead of flowing through the pipe. You'd never get a siphon below the valve. Of course, that's a poor way to design your overflow.
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