jamal

i would say dont try to mix treatments. dont mix copper and hyposalinity treatments. just treat the ich in qt then the lymphocistis and so on. treat what you are sure of first

+ 1 to kevin's post

thats the other thing. i have no clue. been looking for a similar one but cant find it. he doesnt sift the sand but he looks like a watchman goby of some sort

i have a goby that eats meaty foods but he sits on my back wall as if to eat the algae growing there and i have noticed that its declining. cant tell if he eats veggies or if nutrients are just low.

unless you are having a problem maintaining something or you need a cheaper salt IO isfine. i use red sea coral pro after i read the awt salt study because reef crystals was inconsistent and have very high alk. coral pro has very low alk which is good for me because i dose kalk so its starts at around 7 dkh and ends up at 10. good luck

if you plan to keep corals than you might want to rethink the angels. most tangs are gonna get too big for the 96 gal. as an anthias fan i will recommend a bimaculatus anthias. maybe a pair

wow that was classic. thanx for sharing that

you have to go to a vet to get the interceptor

i touch everything barehanded including bristle worms 3or 4x larger than the one pictured as well as anemones and other stinging animals and i havent noticed any problems. but the red cross said i have very thick skin so maybe thats it. i would say if you are worried contrlling feeding and cleaning detritus will control their populations for free but i see no need. i had so many in my tank early on and was worried so i got a wrasse which worked a little too well and i saw detritus accumulate more so be sure its a problem first

what stephen said is exactly right. i couldnt have put it better. i have been 2 or 3 times and it has been the same but i like the DT on the side that they just set up though it will look better when it matures

i would say high flow and alot of food combined with shredding them a little but leaving tissue behind

here is why i would suggest that the amount of fish dont matter. at one point in my tank i had to fish including three large tangs and i fed way more generously than most people and i fed my corals and had no hair algae or any nuisance algae. i was down to 0 fish and now i have hair algae cyano and bubble algae. not because of my bioload. my nitrates are below 1 mg/litre but acros are dying and algae is rampant because of phosphates. at 1ppm it is destroying my tank. getting it under control but i say this because nutrients are the problem here. check nitrates and phosphates and you wont be surprised. good luck

i know they sell to local stores. i had that convo with them when i first tried them.

also you need to bring up your magnesium to between 1300 and 1400ppm. if you have an alkalinity problem this may be why. it helps to stabilize calcium and alkalinity and is used pretty heavily by corraline algae.

sorry to hear about the jumper. my fish have always ignored any mandarin i have kept. they do jump though. not like wrasses but if they are startled...

if the tank is large enough

well are you running gfo to help with phosphates? what amount of water volume you have will partially determine what you need. you should get a larger unit if you make your water on the spot and have nowhere to store it for emergencies. also if your nutrients are that low that you have no algae you can put some nori on a rock

that is what a hang on back refugium is. if you get a compact flourescent bulb that will help the heat.

well i was thinking that since he is a sand dwelling animal that my qt would stress him so i put him in the dt.

yea i overkalked my tank and didnt plug my return pump in all the way and voila instant disaster. then i acclimated the cuc to my qt water instead of my dt water and put him in there. i dont think there is much danger in repeating this level of stupidity but please take my example to heart. happy reefing

i came home to a kalk disaster. so i just bought a cucumber today and i put him in the tank after a water change and he is excreting his guts already. should i remove him? i assume he is dying

thanx for the late tour. gave me some good ideas.

like most things in this hobby cheaper ends up costing you in another way. salifert, elos, lamotte, and tropic marin are good ones. i had the api nitrate kit and it wouldnt read lower than 30ppm. i didnt realize it until another member told me that her kit had been giving false readings. it turns out that my trates were low and the api kit was wrong. go figure.

just one

thats not necessarily true. i have 3 150 watt mh's on a fixture and i still need a chiller in the spring and summer and the tank is in the basement. i have a chiller because fans werent enough and it is just easier. when i upgrade my lighting i will need a bigger chiller. especially on extra hot days. chiller =$1000 dead reef= several thousand. simple for me but i envy those who dont need a chiller.