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Everything posted by Origami

  1. Looks good! Best of luck with this setup. You'll have no issues with sagging given that lumber. My tank's back is open, spanning six feet, using 3/4" plywood atop a 2x6 yellow pine beam undergirded with 2x4's set crosswise to resist bowing. The effect is similar to a 2x8 SYP beam which my calculations shows would bow less than 1/20" under point load (which it's not). Ash should give you even more strength.
  2. If you do it in that order and allow the freshwater to distribute before drawing out the gallon of tank water, it'll be as good as it can be (mathematically speaking). If you draw that gallon out (step 2) before you allow the freshwater to distribute, you'll (again, mathematically speaking) be drawing water out that is slightly higher in salinity than what you're replacing it with, ultimately drawing your salinity downward over the long haul. Keep in mind, though, that you need to be precise when topping off your water so that it matches evaporation. However, unless the tank is rather small, the net downward trend will be small and can be corrected from time to time by adding a bit of saltwater to the tank in lieu of freshwater for topoff. If you don't already have an automatic topoff system, you really should get one. It's the first bit of automation that really pays back in reducing the daily chore-level and keeps parameters stable as well.
  3. Prinz, Chemically-speaking, kalk is calcium hydroxide, or lime powder. It has low solubility in water - that is, only a very small amount of it dissolves (as you noted) completely and a sediment often settles to the bottom of any container that you add it to. The level of dissolution is typically a teaspoon per gallon or less. Kalkwasser is German for "limewater" and it's the slightly milky fluid that sits above the undissolved lime that settles to the bottom of a reasonably still (or only very slightly stirred) container of water and lime. Kalkwasser's concentration is very well controlled so long as you don't have a bunch of undissolved sediment suspended in the water. That's an important point to note which Sneeze has already made and I'm here just to reiterate it to underscore its importance. So, if you're stirring the container of kalk plus water with a pump, it's very likely that you'll have suspended solids, and you won't have much control over the alkalinity that you're dosing. Stir your Kalk reservoir intermittently and just enough to keep it saturated. Once a day for a moment or two is normally enough. Then, let the undissolved solids settle out before dosing your tank.
  4. 18K on my phone. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  5. Alan, whatever that image was, the underlying link went to mail.google.com and seemed to tie into some message. It was not a direct link to an image.
  6. John does a great job. In a competitive business that sees its share of turnovers, he's continued to be a reliable, quality supplier and loyal WAMAS supporter & sponsor. That in itself is a testimony to doing things right. Thank you for sharing your experience!
  7. From our friends at SaltwaterAquarium.com, two AquaEl Leddy-Slim LED lights! One 36W "Sunny" spectrum light to fit 40-48" tanks ($150 retail value) and one 32W "Plant" spectrum lamp to fit 32-40" tanks (retail value $170). Link to AquaEl lamps.
  8. Just added an I/O Breakout Box for your Neptune Systems Apex. A $40 value. Donated by Saltwateraquarium.com!
  9. I've just added two raffle prizes to the first post: First, a 1-year free subscription to Coral Magazine - the best produced reef aquarium magazine in the world (IMHO). Donated by the great people at Reef2Rainforest Media. Second up is some Reef Frenzy premium frozen fish food. Donated by our good friend and supporter, Larry DuPont, creator of Reef Frenzy and other Frenzy foods. Multiple chances to win. Stay tuned. More to come.
  10. Never heard anything of the sort. You're first. What have you observed? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  11. Manufacturers claim that brake fluid is hydrophilic and, as were keeping our cars longer the water can lead to corrosion in the lines, master cylinder, etc. , I think. Also reduces braking efficiency since water vaporizers at a lower temp and, with long hard braking can cause gas bubbles in the lines. The other reason is to keep the warranty going. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  12. Honestly, the most valuable part of the setup at this point will be the cylinder (tank) from a resale perspective. Somebody with an understanding of how to refurbish, setup and operate the rest of the system might value the other parts to some extent, but the competition won't be great and, therefore, the price likely won't be much more than a token. A person with the right knowledge, though, could make it work and get some useful life out of it.
  13. Hey Paul. I've been doing brakes on my own for about 40 years now. (Dad was a jet mechanic, but worked on cars alot as a kid and as a young man.) Like you, I expect my local auto parts store to stock them. But, I confess that I have bought them online the last couple of times. In fact, within the next couple of weekends, I'll be changing out the brake fluid on my wife's car. In the past, this would have been a two person job, you know. One person to press and hold the pedal, while I opened the bleeder to drain out some fluid. This go-around, though, I have some sort of vacuum device that's supposed to help me make it a one-person job. It pulls the fluid from the lines and, as long as I keep the master cylinder reasonably full, I can keep air out of the lines while pulling new fluid in and old fluid out. Should be fun. I expect it to take about 60-90 minutes. Nothing like doing it yourself if you can.
  14. I will typically mix anywhere from 30- to 50 gallons at a shot in a 7-gallon mix tank (it easily holds 75 gallons, but is marked to 70). Some time back, I calculated that 1 cup of IO would raise the tank by 0.834 ppt so it's really easy to dial in the full container if I initially mix it a little low.
  15. Man, if we resumed tank tours, I know what two tanks I'd like to visit! ;-)
  16. It probably was before you both came out to see us. But, hard to say, you both look the same. ;-) She's a beautiful (and wonderful) lady. I know that you know that you're a lucky guy!
  17. I can't tell if it's 5 or 10 or what, but I can see that it's non-zero. So that confirms your earlier tests.
  18. Sounds like you had a good time with your buddy, Paul. It's nice that you've kept in touch all these years.
  19. Welcome to WAMAS, rdavidw. Glad to have you aboard now as a member. Great tank!
  20. I can't point you to anything definitive, but years ago it was said that corals grew fastest under 6500K (yellow/daylight) lighting, but that they tended to brown out. They colored up better under higher Kelvin (e.g. 20,000K) lighting.
  21. I kept a larger, 6-foot wide) steel shelving unit (purchased at Costco) many years ago to hold a 55-gallon frag tank and a 20 gallon remote deep sand bed. After some time, I noticed that the shelf supports bowed downward very, very slightly in the middle. The mechanism for the bowing was a slight outward twisting of what I'd call the joists. I was able to make reverse the bowing and make a sturdy, flat surface again by drilling the center of either support and installing all-thread and four nuts/washers to bring the supports back to vertical and the support back to flat. I needed to find a solution back then because I had so much already on the shelf that I didn't want to move if I didn't have to. I've not gone back to putting tanks on these shelves since, though. I like your new solution better anyways.
  22. Remember, in Mari's case, her water sample starts out with zero ammonia (coming out of the RO/DI) and then, when left in the open air, accumulates ammonia. That's different than the scenario where ammonia is present coming out of the RO/DI system.
  23. Good eye. That's it. That's probably the feed port. As mentioned, the one thing that I don't like about this particular DIY layout is the fact that there's no outlet or way to re-ingest gasseous CO2 that accumulates at the top of the reactor. Over time, it can slowly dissolve back into the water, but if the accumulation rate exceeds to solution rate, then a bubble will form in the main reactor chamber or in that down-pipe. Eventually, it might form a bubble around the pH probe leading to poor pH control inside the reactor. The way around this would be to take the effluent from the top of the reactor, basically venting any accumulated gas out to the atmosphere. Still a pretty good design, though. Nice to see a pretty solid DIY effort again.
  24. I'm glad that they're still taking orders. We've been trying on and off for a year to contact them regarding their sponsorship. They've been very reliable in the past, but we've been unable to close with them. It's a bit of a mystery.
  25. Regulators used in fish rooms or under tanks can exhibit surface corrosion (as yours does). However, what's interesting to me is how the bubble counter looks. Normally they're clear.
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