scott711

If you have the dimensions of the MP60 Wide Flow Guard, I could probably just use the MP40 as a template and just enlarge it.

finally getting around to check out the thread, but of course my work blocks the pictures. The biggest thing I can recommend is make sure whatever you do, create enough room for moving things around and removing equipment. You don't want to be cursing yourself for not leaving enough room to remove a skimmer cup, or pump and it gets stuck. Make sure you add unions to piping - makes it easier for repairs LOTS of ventilation - humidity/salt= corrosion. Always stick to the KISS method (keep it simple). The easier something is to do, the more likely you are going to do it. I know I have mentioned the reef brite XHOs. I would forgo those and get something different (if price is a concern). There are comparable LED's that are a lot less money. Oh- for the sand bed, I did an mixture of sand and epoxy to create a life like sand bed. The benefit is once you place the rocks in the bed (has to be done at the same time), there won't be any places for detritus to get trapped. You can always add more sand to create a bed for wrasses to bury into.

Hit me up, I can print you anything you want.

Steve, I think I remember. Yeap still married. It was a no win situation for her, but I keep everything in my garage so there are no water issues. So she couldn't be more happier. I got two 100 gallon water tanks. They come in different sizes and shapes. You can do smaller, but I would probably stick with the 100's. I don't know of any good sources to estimate electrical need. I just installed a sub panel and a 50 Amp breaker split into individual dedicated gfci breakers in the sub panel. I also have solar which helps offset some of my aquarium power. For the tank I got mine from AGE in Texas. Very solid build. Ventilation is important as anything metal in the room will eventually rust.

If you look back at my build, I took down a load bearing wall in between my garage and living room. I took over part of the garage. Definitely think about a sink (hot/cold water), drain, air exchange (especially if it is near an electrical box). I have a separate 50 amp circuit that was in the garage and made that a sub panel with 5 different circuits around the tank. Definitely have dedicated power on separate circuits for the tank. As I mentioned, ventilation is important because of the saltwater humidity. I have an A/C unit in their for the summer months and it is also a fan/dehumidifier. Have a lot of storage. I also have 2 large holding tanks for salt and fresh water. Definitely plan for wire management.

how much light do you have over it? They don't need a lot of light. They also like to be feed. I have a rock full of them and they are doing well in a shallow frag tank with T5 lighting only on a couple hours a day. Also look at how much flow you have directed on them. They are easy to move if you can get underneath them.

Thanks for taking care of this Tom!

It depends on your goal. If your goal is to eliminate parasites the max flow will be lower than if you are just wanting to us it to kill algae. https://www.livingreefs.com/threads/introduction-to-uv-sterilizers.431/ https://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?articleid=435

Agreed. It is really cool to be able to do something when you have wet hands. "alexa, Tell apex fusion to turn off the skimmer" I will "echo" what Dmb said, if you need help post here

It is a bubble king mini 1500. I have been talking with Royal exclusive over PM. I have tried soaking it and so far no luck. I was looking at the laguna pump because they are almost identical. My problem is that I am leaving for vacation. Luckily my mag drive pump with a hose inserted into the intake has been ok.

So as luck would have it, I am going on vacation soon and my skimmer pump failed. It is a mini red dragon 1500. I am not sure what is wrong with it. It will turn on, start to spin and then stop. Just to keep my skimmer working, I threw in a mag pump and put a tube in the intake to suck air, so far that has worked, but I need to either get a replacement (not sure what would work as an alternative to a red dragon) or figure out what is wrong with the pump. I cleaned the pump and impeller, but that didn't help. Skimmer has only been running for about 7 months. Any help would be appreciated

It didn't take a long time (~1month). It has completely gone away.

I like the KISS method (aka keep it simple...) Do water changes and add a good clean up crew. If you have to scrub the rock or pull it out. When I started my tank, I had bad hair algae, but it eventually went away with water changes and a good clean up crew. Make sure you are not over feeding and make sure you have good water flow. If your tank is doing well, why mess with anything trying to achieve a magic number? I don't test for phosphates. Only Alk.

Hard wired is always better. Wireless adapters are not reliable. When I did try that route, I too went with a powerline adapter and plugged it in. I think I still have it if you want it.

As Rob A mentioned, I don't think the direction will matter that much. From the pictures it looks like the bottom portion is where the water is getting chilled. Have you tried to look up the brand/model # for the chiller? You also have to make sure the flow the the chiller is sufficient. It can't be too fast or the water won't have enough time to get cooled, but not too slow either. You also want to make sure the chiller is actually working to and not freezing up. You should here the chiller engage when it turns on and starts the cooling process with the refrigerant and the fan.

I HIGHLY recommend everyone vacuum their sand bed regularly. Where do you think detritus and such accumulates? As for alternatives to a real sand bed, why not try a epoxy sand bed. I have done this and I know of a few others that have done this too. It gives the illusion of a real sand bed, without the issues. You can have sections that are real sand to accommodate sand dwelling creatures.

everyone has success in different ways. IMO your alk seems high. I keep my alk close to 8 and have great growth and color. I don't dose anything except 2 part. I do regular water changes. Why are you dosing vinegar? for Nitrates? Have you changed your lighting recently? I am pretty sure ULN can result in pale corals

A couple of questions/comments on your programming. Why do you have the two virtual outlets? Many of the outlets you have unneeded redundancy (it doesn't add redundancy, it just makes the code hard to read) for example: Return Pump Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON You don't need both of these: If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Because you have the "Set ON" statement. So whenever the MAIN_WC is OFF, the outlet will be "SET ON". I am also not sure why you have Two Defer statements: Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON When using the "Defer" statement, Defer 05:00 Then OFF = Defer the OFF state for 05 minute. (ON would be immediate). You also have the Set On statement so the Outlet would be "On" if any of the statements below it are false. Instead of a second "Defer" you could use the "Min" statement. ie Min Time 5:00 Then OFF = Minimum Time of 5 minutes in the OFF state. (ON would be immediate). For the heater statements, you don't need the Set "OFF". Your Main Heater: Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80.0 Then OFF What will happen when using the Set command with a heater is that this program will not cause the outlet to operate over the desired range of temperature; instead, it will operate around a single temp of ~ 78.9 degrees. If the temp drops to 78.9, the heater outlet will turn ON, and it will shut off as soon as the temp goes up to 79.0. TheIf D_Tmp > 80.0 statement does nothing here, because the Set OFF will be the only true statement as soon as the temp goes up to 79.0. The result will be that your heater gets switched on and off fairly rapidly. If you want a cleaner code and the temp to stay at 80, then just use this: If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80. Then OFF The heater will turn ON until the temp hits 80 and then will turn off, it will stay off until the temp goes to 79 again and will turn On until the temp exceeds 80. I think in your case you may want to look at incorporating the "when" or "and" statements: for example: The 'When' will be an force an output to the OFF state if it has been ON for more than a specified duration: When On > 005:00 Then OFF For using the "AND" command, for the outlet you need to turn off if both virtual outelts are true: ie: XandY Set OFF If X = ON Then ON If Y = OFF Then OFF Then add If Outlet XandY = ON Then OFF Hopefully it all makes sense and I understood what you were trying to do in your code. If you need more info: for AND: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?7057-How-to-incorporate-AND-in-your-programming for WHEN: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?18393-Programming-enhancements-in-Apex-(2016)-AOS-v5-02-and-Apex-Classic-Firmware-4-52 For the DEFER and MIN TIME: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?52-Defer-and-Min-Time-statements For the SET command: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?14598-New-APEX-Users-Read-This-Thread! And general programming usage: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/forumdisplay.php?33-Misc-Apex-Usage-amp-Programming

in order to update the modules you have to go to the modules tab and click on the drop down box for each module and select update. It will display the module being updated

I don't think this part will work with how you described: Defer 001:00 Then ON

How did you update the firmware? If you haven't already, you are probably going to have to physically connect it to a computer with a cat 5 cable. After that you should be able to bring up the web page locally by typing (if I remember correctly) http:apex.local or something to that effect. From there, just go to the modules tab and update them there. You will see the update status of the modules. Do you still have the display unit? You can update/remove the modules through the display too. I am assuming you know that to calibrate the probe you will need a calibration solution. You can also do a factory reset: From the classic dashboard: Select Configuration/Misc Setup and in the Initialize memory drop down, select Initialize All, check the 'Reboot system after update' box and click the Update Misc Settings button From the Apex display: System Menu/Init Memory/Init All You can also try calling Neptune.

throw them in the washing machine double rinse or soak them in a bucket with a tiny bit of bleach

very cool Samuel!

From what I understand, they were installing new builds with the batteries and pre existing systems were going to be after that. I know on the website you can put your contact information in and put a deposit down and they will contact you with an estimate.

One thing to note about solar city is that you have to buy the panels (loan or cash) in order to claim any tax credits. If you lease the panels from them, you can't claim the tax credits. I have solar panels from solar city. The electricity I generate goes back to the grid and I get a credit from Pepco for whatever I produce. I can't store it for use at night or on a cloudy day unless I get the powerwall. Before my tank, my electric bill was often negative. My panels have produced 712 Kwh year to date. Last year they produced 5,200 Kwh. The panels have been on the roof since Nov 2014 and total energy produced ~17,100 kwh. ~5 kwh/year. right now at 10:35am they are producing 3,400 watts @ a savings of $0.51/hour