Jump to content

scott711

Officer
  • Content Count

    3,179
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About scott711

  • Rank
    WAMAS Treasurer
  • Birthday July 11

Custom Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kensington, MD

Recent Profile Visitors

1,376 profile views
  1. Yes. Please. You guys have a ton of good products and videos that help hobbyists from the novice to the experienced. Keep it up. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  2. how much light do you have over it? They don't need a lot of light. They also like to be feed. I have a rock full of them and they are doing well in a shallow frag tank with T5 lighting only on a couple hours a day. Also look at how much flow you have directed on them. They are easy to move if you can get underneath them.
  3. Thanks for taking care of this Tom!
  4. It depends on your goal. If your goal is to eliminate parasites the max flow will be lower than if you are just wanting to us it to kill algae. https://www.livingreefs.com/threads/introduction-to-uv-sterilizers.431/ https://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?articleid=435
  5. scott711

    tank

  6. Agreed. It is really cool to be able to do something when you have wet hands. "alexa, Tell apex fusion to turn off the skimmer" I will "echo" what Dmb said, if you need help post here
  7. It is a bubble king mini 1500. I have been talking with Royal exclusive over PM. I have tried soaking it and so far no luck. I was looking at the laguna pump because they are almost identical. My problem is that I am leaving for vacation. Luckily my mag drive pump with a hose inserted into the intake has been ok.
  8. So as luck would have it, I am going on vacation soon and my skimmer pump failed. It is a mini red dragon 1500. I am not sure what is wrong with it. It will turn on, start to spin and then stop. Just to keep my skimmer working, I threw in a mag pump and put a tube in the intake to suck air, so far that has worked, but I need to either get a replacement (not sure what would work as an alternative to a red dragon) or figure out what is wrong with the pump. I cleaned the pump and impeller, but that didn't help. Skimmer has only been running for about 7 months. Any help would be appreciated
  9. It didn't take a long time (~1month). It has completely gone away.
  10. I like the KISS method (aka keep it simple...) Do water changes and add a good clean up crew. If you have to scrub the rock or pull it out. When I started my tank, I had bad hair algae, but it eventually went away with water changes and a good clean up crew. Make sure you are not over feeding and make sure you have good water flow. If your tank is doing well, why mess with anything trying to achieve a magic number? I don't test for phosphates. Only Alk.
  11. Hard wired is always better. Wireless adapters are not reliable. When I did try that route, I too went with a powerline adapter and plugged it in. I think I still have it if you want it.
  12. As Rob A mentioned, I don't think the direction will matter that much. From the pictures it looks like the bottom portion is where the water is getting chilled. Have you tried to look up the brand/model # for the chiller? You also have to make sure the flow the the chiller is sufficient. It can't be too fast or the water won't have enough time to get cooled, but not too slow either. You also want to make sure the chiller is actually working to and not freezing up. You should here the chiller engage when it turns on and starts the cooling process with the refrigerant and the fan.
  13. I HIGHLY recommend everyone vacuum their sand bed regularly. Where do you think detritus and such accumulates? As for alternatives to a real sand bed, why not try a epoxy sand bed. I have done this and I know of a few others that have done this too. It gives the illusion of a real sand bed, without the issues. You can have sections that are real sand to accommodate sand dwelling creatures.
  14. everyone has success in different ways. IMO your alk seems high. I keep my alk close to 8 and have great growth and color. I don't dose anything except 2 part. I do regular water changes. Why are you dosing vinegar? for Nitrates? Have you changed your lighting recently? I am pretty sure ULN can result in pale corals
  15. A couple of questions/comments on your programming. Why do you have the two virtual outlets? Many of the outlets you have unneeded redundancy (it doesn't add redundancy, it just makes the code hard to read) for example: Return Pump Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON You don't need both of these: If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Because you have the "Set ON" statement. So whenever the MAIN_WC is OFF, the outlet will be "SET ON". I am also not sure why you have Two Defer statements: Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON When using the "Defer" statement, Defer 05:00 Then OFF = Defer the OFF state for 05 minute. (ON would be immediate). You also have the Set On statement so the Outlet would be "On" if any of the statements below it are false. Instead of a second "Defer" you could use the "Min" statement. ie Min Time 5:00 Then OFF = Minimum Time of 5 minutes in the OFF state. (ON would be immediate). For the heater statements, you don't need the Set "OFF". Your Main Heater: Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80.0 Then OFF What will happen when using the Set command with a heater is that this program will not cause the outlet to operate over the desired range of temperature; instead, it will operate around a single temp of ~ 78.9 degrees. If the temp drops to 78.9, the heater outlet will turn ON, and it will shut off as soon as the temp goes up to 79.0. TheIf D_Tmp > 80.0 statement does nothing here, because the Set OFF will be the only true statement as soon as the temp goes up to 79.0. The result will be that your heater gets switched on and off fairly rapidly. If you want a cleaner code and the temp to stay at 80, then just use this: If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80. Then OFF The heater will turn ON until the temp hits 80 and then will turn off, it will stay off until the temp goes to 79 again and will turn On until the temp exceeds 80. I think in your case you may want to look at incorporating the "when" or "and" statements: for example: The 'When' will be an force an output to the OFF state if it has been ON for more than a specified duration: When On > 005:00 Then OFF For using the "AND" command, for the outlet you need to turn off if both virtual outelts are true: ie: XandY Set OFF If X = ON Then ON If Y = OFF Then OFF Then add If Outlet XandY = ON Then OFF Hopefully it all makes sense and I understood what you were trying to do in your code. If you need more info: for AND: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?7057-How-to-incorporate-AND-in-your-programming for WHEN: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?18393-Programming-enhancements-in-Apex-(2016)-AOS-v5-02-and-Apex-Classic-Firmware-4-52 For the DEFER and MIN TIME: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?52-Defer-and-Min-Time-statements For the SET command: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/showthread.php?14598-New-APEX-Users-Read-This-Thread! And general programming usage: https://forum.neptunesystems.com/forumdisplay.php?33-Misc-Apex-Usage-amp-Programming
×
×
  • Create New...