monkiboy

does anyone know a reputable steelworker or a welder? i'm looking for someone to build me a stand for my 210g build. i could provide material if required but i want a quality job done and if possible at an affordable rate... thanks for any help or referrals you can provide!

tony, that's an awesome illustration - excellent work and thanks for posting on RC, as well. how did you decide to hang yours?

check out the latest GB thread. i posted up the links to the RC threads where there are likely hundreds of photos of the evergrow units and quite a few reviews to keep you busy reading for weeks. yes, reefbreeders is a USA reseller of the evergrow lights. in the GBs we work directly with evergrow.

what lens and body?

some gorgeous pieces sir! eager to hear about this sale!

awesome share, thanks for the info and ideas!

nice meeting you while there! post up some photos when you have the chance of the goodies you picked up in your tank!

stopped by richard's shop today for the first time and was shocked to find as much selection in corals as there was. while still a small outfit that is growing and expanding, there is a lot already there available. richard was awesome to talk to while i made my visit. i learned a bit about everything, met some cool reefers in the process, and walked away confident of my return when my 210 build is complete. thanks for doing what you're doing so honestly, fairly, and with an awesome helpful attitude!

that's neat, sir. hope it continues to work out for you. specifically which two bodies of which models did adam join for you? and which flange did you use?

pm is full. i can be there in 10-15 minutes...let me know! most interested in the 120 setup as i'm working on a QT and two otther new builds and could use the LR and other items. but if not, i'll take whatever i can as it'll all help! my dejas saber cuando tenga un momento, por favor!

interesting information and read. i've read similar inforation packaged in with shipments from dr. mac and john maloney.

correct. you wouldn't want that. just wanted him to know there are two in these overflows and one of them is technically on the "nut side" of the display tank glass.

unless you're using a glass-holes.com overflow...in that case, one goes on each side of the glass including the nut side.

where are you located. i have bits of a few sizes and a BRS guide you can borrow. check out the BRS drilling tank video as it has everything you need to know. running water, guide, towel inside to catch piece if it falls. tape on the inside wall of where you are drilling to prevent chips and the piece falling and no pressure but from the drill itself on the glass. and the drill bit required depends on the bulkhead being used. go with what is recommended. on BRS they state all the drill bits needed for whatever size bulkhead they sell. check it out for purchase and/or reference to make sure you got it right.

i or one of the other guys will be organizing another GB pretty soon to get all the folks that didn't make this one and the new-comers like yourself involved. so if you're able/willing to wait for an early march delivery, you can't beat the product at that price and i would encourage you to join. information on the light, various setups, etc can be found in any of the evergrow threads on here but more specifically and abundant is the information on RC through the links i posted on the original post of the lastest groupbuy. g'luck!

i agree in not having them under the glass. while i'm running a herbie not a bean, the idea is the same in that you need access to the 90s on the inside of the overflow. you'll find yourself playing with pieces of pvc to raise the emergency drains or to have a cover over the overflow, blockages, etc. any reason you want to go bean or herbie? folks always seem to find it hard to get water level under full siphon but without having it enter the second drain. some folks just deal with the extra trickle into the second and emergency drains as it's hard to fine tune even with the best cepex valves. some folks use needle valves even. with a herbie you can allow much more room between your pipes for tinkering and changing water levels and pressure that might change in your overflow which equals complete silence. also, you mention blocking of light...any reason you didn't go external? do you have space constraints? planning my 210 build so i'm curious and open to feedback. good luck whatever you decide to do! ps - the clown pair still hot for each other and doing well? haha

the meetings are posted in the "announcements" forum > http://wamas.org/for...ing-13-feb-9th/ welcome, i'm newer here too. most everyone has been very helpful and friendly and i completely agree you get your monies worth almost instantly. the meetings are swell, for sure!

haha! and it looks so good. i never really say that but very balanced and excellent shapes. i dig it.

no worries - good luck!

awesome! don't forget if you use a check valve, that it should be upstream (after the manifold) so that the siphon stops from allowing water into your connected items like reactors that will continue to be supplied water into the sump if your outlet of reactor goes to the sump.

if you have the room for a manifold that long and a pump with enough flow to support all your connected components, then sounds awesome. just hook up a quad to a dual or a triple and a triple. i'd always have an extra just for another reactor or a chiller or something down the road. oh, and don't waste money on barb fitting to an adapter. they have different sized barb buttress connections that are more affordable and a cleaner and less cumbersome look, too. well, when a female buttress really likes a male pipe thread, she will screw right on and they will have a seal that will never break because there's a circle of trust between them. no BUTT in all seriousness, there's an o-ring for sealing much like a cepex ball-valve end.

great build thread and best of luck on your restaurant venture! if you're looking for a good deal on LEDs that have proven themselves, you can join the evergrow groupbuy on this forum. unlikely to find a better deal on such a package. and there's so many folks that use them now that you can just pick up a template of your choosing and you're done without having to worry about whateaver "setup" you were referring to with the AI units.

about every four months. i use magi-kleen from hydor. love that stuff. works much better at stripping off deposits, coralline, and whatever else than vinegar or acid baths i've tried. usually just a rinse and it's brand new sometimes a minute with the stiff glock cleaning brush if it was really bad.

hvaen't used orbit brand specifically before but have you used different brands of felixible PVC including irrigation application-based stuff. in the end, i like using flexpvc.com and flexiblepvc.com. they have the best prices, different colors, diferrent wall thicknesses in case i need something extra flexible, etc. works likes regular rigid PVC in setting up with primer and cement and never had issues with leaks or kinking. increased flow and reduced backpressure is a bonus, and the grey matches schedule 80 nicely if you're meticulous as some of us, haha.

that's a great change! how much time between photos?