monkiboy

no worries. replacing LEDs is very simple according to folks that have done it and written about their experience in the RC threads. take a look through them or search the threads for that topic and you'll find photos and experiences.

photos have been shared here in the past: http://wamas.org/for...e__hl__evergrow

take a look through the group buy thread. per the instructions and attachments, you have two ways to do the channel layout on a D120. either 28+27 (grid style) or 30+25 (columnar). to best match up the CREE LEDs to the bridgelux simply match up color temperature or wavelength. there aren't as many CREE offerings as bridgelux so some will not have an exact match. the available LEDs are listed as "warm white" or "cool white" in the group buy thread.

if it's a huge concern for you, then you can go with the IT series which allow the units to daisy-chain from one to the other leaving one power cord to be plugged in. yes, the d120 has two potentiometers, one for each channel. when we are able to work out the deal for the 1-10v drivers for the d120s for apex/rkl/etc control, there will be no potentiometers and everything will be handled by your aquarium controller.

60°, 90°, & 120° are the only available options through the group buy. you can try your luck with fitment with the ebay variety and options.

please go to the group buy thread and make it known.

yeah, i think you have a point given how high he has them mounted up above a 30" tall tank. there are members on here and RC with 27" and taller tanks with 90° optics very happy but hung lower. i still think 60° will be a better solution at his hanging height and with his tall tank for the reasons ridetheducati mentioned, though. ridetheducati posted a really nice PAR reading graph from his 27" tall tank and i believe that was 90° optics. correct me if i'm wrong, tony. all the information, in detail, is in the group buy thread, linked here - http://wamas.org/for...-led-groupbuy-4 check it out! the more, the merrier. the 1-10v dimmers i am working on. it's about 90% figured out. just working out the best pricing we can with the manufacturer, how to package it for purchase with lights, on their own for the DIY'er and making sure support is available for those looking to add them to current fixtures. you can check out the RC threads i link to in the group buy thread. read bhazard's contribution to the most recent thread. he had DIY CREE fixtures, mazspect, radions (first gen and 2nd) and compares them in the thread. in the end he swapped all his units out for the evergrows and keeps his CREE fixture for testing purposes. you are right in that the CREE are more efficient but bhazard prefers the evergrow because of price-point, reliability, performance, etc. you can DIY a much more power fixture and CREE has some LEDs that bridgelux does not and vice versa, but you don't need any more performance out of a fixture than what evergrow will deliver. most folks use 120° on their reds and greens for optimal spread. it's not typical to do so on the UV LEDs but UV LEDs are not available in this group buy as they are working on providing a better offering. that's what's awesome about the DIY fixtures and the evergrows is that you can order up extra optics and LEDs and easily swap them. and you can pick them up even cheaper now through this most recent group buy i posted. so you can play with it and figure out what works best for you. two d120s would be sufficient for most on a 48" x 18" tank. if you're trying to keep SPS along the edges and corners, it likely would not.

i have a kole yellow eye tang in QT now. almost everything you describe i have experienced. when i feed, he swims around in a fury with lots of energy. this is week three in QT for him and i've only seen him eat once. but i had tried the seaweed on a clip and on a pvc pipe and he doesn't eat while i'm there but the next day it's gone. it's odd but it has be getting consumed for him to be swimming so actively, pretty plump, and the seaweed to be gone every day. i do notice he pecks at the floor and likely picks up food while i'm gone that he doesn't eat while i'm there. stay at it and keep trying. as rob said, they aren't easy fish for captivity but with a bit of patience and persistence maybe you'll win out in the end.

+1, i've had success growing them but you really do need to spray them down at least once a day with fresh water and you have great chances at some beautiful mangroves under the correct lighting.

the 1-10v dimmable drivers are something that i am working a separate purchase of with reefbreeders. the chinese new year/spring festival has halted a lot of ongoing communication we had prior to the event, and we are picking things back up, negotiating the lowest prices possible, figuring out the logistics of getting the fixtures direct from evergrow to reefbreeders, and an option to provide the drivers to the DIY'er for their own installation. so for the time being get the fixture(s) that works best for you and your goals and soon i'll be posting more information on the 1-10v dimmable drivers. what kind of LEDs are you using on your existing fixtures? the LEDs on the evergrow units have 90° optics as part of their design. like ridetheducati said, i really can't imagine you would need anything more narrow than a 60° optic. i would try to stop by a home with a tank that has these lights to check out your concerns with these specific units and varying optics.

so no body has an answer yet?

it's caribseas "Hawaiian Black Arag-Alive! Live Reef Sand" - i've used it in a few systems now. love how it makes everything POP in the tank and doesn't get swept up with lots of flow.

weird. works now. i just copied the link from the browser from my video manager last time. but now it's working. i'll keep my eyes out for the correct syntax from now on. thanks tom!

that's what I did. It does not work.

i turned the return off to allow some new rock nems to settle in and within a few minutes i had twenty or so of these guys crawling over my glass. as soon as i turn the return pump back on and flow to the tank (no power heads as this is a nem tank), they all either got swooshed away with the flow or squirmed back into the substrate. and here's a video of them squirming around on my glass: also, how do you get youtube videos to embed appropriately? thanks!

this thread has strayed a bit from the original poster's request but there is some excellent information in here. hope folks read it and it helps someone along the way!

thank you, sir. that's a novel idea. one i might take up on if i know i won't be interested in any of the inverts that would occupy that area as a home. thanks for posting.

intentionally? probably not many experienced reefers. does it happen? absolutely. yes, i believe the possibility of ich in it's tomont stage attaching to live rock, frag plugs, etc is more than remote.

i would disagree. while tomonts or in the tomont stage, which can be the longest stage of the lifecycle, they settle in the sand and rock right before the reproduction and division begins. or it could arrive in the water that the frag, invert, rock, or whatever you just picked up from your buddy/LFS/swap meet, was in.

exactly right. that's incredibly tough to QT all incoming specimens, whether coral, inverts, or fish but the truth is that any of them could have the parasite in one of more stages be it unlikely as it is. so one goes fallow for 8 weeks, is diligent about their QT procedure on fish, and has a "clean" DT but then skimps out on frags you picked up at a swap or a nem mounted on a rock from your friends reef and you've basically just ruined all your effort. you certainly have to be dedicated as it's all or nothing, do it right or not at all.

so i use paraguard instead of a freshwater dip and formalin. paraguard is seachem's answer to hobbyists not wanting to meddle with formalin due to its carcinogenic properties, how it can be hard to find if you don't know where to look, and the tissue damage it can do on open sores and wounds. so far it hasn't been proven in studies yet to be just as effective as formalin for marine velvet but that is the claim made by seachem. it also hasn't been proven against brookynella for wild-caught clowns, but that is also the claim by seachem. that being said, one of paraguards ingredients is malachite green which is widely known to be one of the most recommended drugs for treatment.

that's curious you treat with prazi AND metronidazole. prazi i use for all deworming and internal parasites. i'll usually treat through food or a prazi bath but have found better luck with the former. have you not had luck with prazi on it's own for intestinal ailments that you use metronidazole as well? or are you using metronidazole as an anti-biotic and/or fungal infection cure? if that is the case, what is your experience with kanamycin instead? i haven't used either of these so i'm curious but for anti-biotic and fungal infections, i don't prophylactic treat those things. i wait for them to be evident in QT. really glad you replied and look forward to your responses. i checked out your build thread a while ago and you have a really nice diligent effort with your QT setup. when you and scott came over the last time, i knew you guys would be good folks to bounce ideas off of when it came to this QT business!

now, anyone with information about necessary use of prazi over paraguard or cupramine? or in addition to, while prophylactically treating new incoming fish?

good to know and your response mimics what seachem states in a seachem support forum i was able to find, that mostly addressed the first part of my questions! "Because some fish tend to be a bit more sensitive than others, there is no way to guarantee a medication 100% safe for any fish. Cupramine is the gentlest copper medication available, and most fish do very well with the treatment. We have had many people treat flame angels for for ich using Cupramine with no adverse effects on the fish. You may want to consider dosing the Cupramine to a lower concentration than recommended, as the therapeutic range begins at around 0.25ppm. As with any medication, the fish should be monitored for signs of stress during treatment, and you can increase the concentration to 0.5ppm once the fish seems to have acclimated to it."

seems like QT, medicating, and hospital tanks are all the rage on WAMAS lately so maybe someone can help me with a few questions i have not been able to get answer to from members on here yet. i normally prophylactically treat with a paraguard bath followed by cupermine after a settling in period and they are happy, eating well, etc. i know certain fish like lionfish, blennies, mandarins, etc do not tolerate copper/cupermine treatments. is there a master list somewhere of which fish are NOT ok to be medicated with cupermine? i reached out to seachem but have not gotten a response. given my prophylactic treatment of all new arrivals with a paraguard bath and cupermine, is it recommended to treat with prazi as well? i recall john copps at the meeting mentioning he prophylactically treats all his incoming fish with prazi. are they different drugs with different issues they work to cure entirely or are they more similar to each other and only one (paraguard or prazi) needs to be used? thanks for any help you can provide.