monkiboy

correct. you wouldn't want that. just wanted him to know there are two in these overflows and one of them is technically on the "nut side" of the display tank glass.

unless you're using a glass-holes.com overflow...in that case, one goes on each side of the glass including the nut side.

where are you located. i have bits of a few sizes and a BRS guide you can borrow. check out the BRS drilling tank video as it has everything you need to know. running water, guide, towel inside to catch piece if it falls. tape on the inside wall of where you are drilling to prevent chips and the piece falling and no pressure but from the drill itself on the glass. and the drill bit required depends on the bulkhead being used. go with what is recommended. on BRS they state all the drill bits needed for whatever size bulkhead they sell. check it out for purchase and/or reference to make sure you got it right.

i or one of the other guys will be organizing another GB pretty soon to get all the folks that didn't make this one and the new-comers like yourself involved. so if you're able/willing to wait for an early march delivery, you can't beat the product at that price and i would encourage you to join. information on the light, various setups, etc can be found in any of the evergrow threads on here but more specifically and abundant is the information on RC through the links i posted on the original post of the lastest groupbuy. g'luck!

i agree in not having them under the glass. while i'm running a herbie not a bean, the idea is the same in that you need access to the 90s on the inside of the overflow. you'll find yourself playing with pieces of pvc to raise the emergency drains or to have a cover over the overflow, blockages, etc. any reason you want to go bean or herbie? folks always seem to find it hard to get water level under full siphon but without having it enter the second drain. some folks just deal with the extra trickle into the second and emergency drains as it's hard to fine tune even with the best cepex valves. some folks use needle valves even. with a herbie you can allow much more room between your pipes for tinkering and changing water levels and pressure that might change in your overflow which equals complete silence. also, you mention blocking of light...any reason you didn't go external? do you have space constraints? planning my 210 build so i'm curious and open to feedback. good luck whatever you decide to do! ps - the clown pair still hot for each other and doing well? haha

the meetings are posted in the "announcements" forum > http://wamas.org/for...ing-13-feb-9th/ welcome, i'm newer here too. most everyone has been very helpful and friendly and i completely agree you get your monies worth almost instantly. the meetings are swell, for sure!

haha! and it looks so good. i never really say that but very balanced and excellent shapes. i dig it.

no worries - good luck!

awesome! don't forget if you use a check valve, that it should be upstream (after the manifold) so that the siphon stops from allowing water into your connected items like reactors that will continue to be supplied water into the sump if your outlet of reactor goes to the sump.

if you have the room for a manifold that long and a pump with enough flow to support all your connected components, then sounds awesome. just hook up a quad to a dual or a triple and a triple. i'd always have an extra just for another reactor or a chiller or something down the road. oh, and don't waste money on barb fitting to an adapter. they have different sized barb buttress connections that are more affordable and a cleaner and less cumbersome look, too. well, when a female buttress really likes a male pipe thread, she will screw right on and they will have a seal that will never break because there's a circle of trust between them. no BUTT in all seriousness, there's an o-ring for sealing much like a cepex ball-valve end.

great build thread and best of luck on your restaurant venture! if you're looking for a good deal on LEDs that have proven themselves, you can join the evergrow groupbuy on this forum. unlikely to find a better deal on such a package. and there's so many folks that use them now that you can just pick up a template of your choosing and you're done without having to worry about whateaver "setup" you were referring to with the AI units.

about every four months. i use magi-kleen from hydor. love that stuff. works much better at stripping off deposits, coralline, and whatever else than vinegar or acid baths i've tried. usually just a rinse and it's brand new sometimes a minute with the stiff glock cleaning brush if it was really bad.

hvaen't used orbit brand specifically before but have you used different brands of felixible PVC including irrigation application-based stuff. in the end, i like using flexpvc.com and flexiblepvc.com. they have the best prices, different colors, diferrent wall thicknesses in case i need something extra flexible, etc. works likes regular rigid PVC in setting up with primer and cement and never had issues with leaks or kinking. increased flow and reduced backpressure is a bonus, and the grey matches schedule 80 nicely if you're meticulous as some of us, haha.

that's a great change! how much time between photos?

for a super clean install, you can check out irrigation system manifolds. i'm running one on the return for my frag tanks. here's what it looks like pieced together. it's extra nice because they are male buttress ends so no teflon/PVC tape and joint sealer mess, you can get in dual, triplet, or quad manifold configuration in various IDs. then you add the BRS reducer fitting to go straight from the cepex ball valves to your reactors .5" rubing. or a threaded male barb connection to your chiller or hose for water change. i got mine from sprinkler warehouse online and they run about 10 bucks for just the manifold. they usually have a coupon code floating around, too!

i suppose it does look that way but that wall has automated some of the most complicated or tedious tasks for me. so while it looks complicated, it makes my life simple the two black recantangular modules and the two buckets are part of the reef genesis system. they are my AWC, ATO, and top off for my ATO system. all i have to do is add salt to my brute container every three weeks and all my water changes are done for me, sump top off is handled, and topping off of my ATO container from the RODI unit is all handled through that system. specifically, the two buckets are used for measuring. they are 1g jugs. they have optical sensors and float switches. at whatever schedule i set the black module to (20g change per week), it will remove one gallon from sump and pour into the reservoir A, at the same time remove one gallon from new salter container and pump into reservoir B. then once perfectly level as metered by the sensors inside, it slowly releases the sump water from res A into the main drain stack outside, and the new SW from reservoir B into the sump. so you are removing exactly one gallon and putting in exactly one gallon at a time. so changes in parameters are slower and happen over time. you don't get the same effect as doing one mass change all at once so i just add a couple gallons to my figure for changes. haha. that might have been mostly passion but there was jealously in their, too! you had a tremendously successful setup and i really enjoyed checking it out. better believe i'm following your 300 build! thanks scott - we'll figure something out i'm sure! thank you, sir! thanks a lot! i have a lot i'm doing this weekend, but i need to get a dedicated thread up for the 46g and then one for whatever i'm doing in the basement to post up! ah you baby, haha! thanks for the help. don't know how i would of felt about asking for help from the ladies so glad you were there, too! did you make it back to pick up the stand still there? oh and those edges were sharp as i nearly did the same to my leg cleaning it the following weekend! yeah, i like in-walls for their aesthetic appeal. especially one that is viewable from both sides tends to be more rare as plumbing and space requirements are a headache to say the least but he effect is tremendous. the wall on the living room side is curved to match the radius of the front of the bowfront while the rear is kitchen-facing and flat. being able to see through is a lot of fun!

that's great. clean it off and it'll run more efficiently, too. i picked up an avast swabbie and skimmate locker a while ago to help with this and can't believe i waited so long. they are great products!

hi folks! my name is marco. i never officially made an intro thread after becoming a member on here and rob (zygote2k) made a great recommendation i do so so here i am. i've been in the saltwater hobby for about eight years and did freshwater since i was kid. i've got a 46g bowfront in wall installation that i've had for about eight years and went through all the ups and downs and learning of the reefing hobby with. water disaster number 1 of a zillion: like a schmuck buying RO water from the LFS aftering finding out i really needed to stop using tap water conditioner and before i knew about RO/DI... i'm a big DIY'er and some of my first DIYs were an overflow as i didn't know about drilling my tank at the time and didn't have room for a traditional overflow within my space and an ATS. i was doing it "wrong" for so long and it wasn't until i started stepping out my FOWLR comfort zone and into keeping corals that i stumbled upon the forums and resources online. sure enough, it wasn't long before i was deep into a complete overhaul of what i thought was a great system. my first frags were some GSP and a frogspawn which are both still with me and grew to be massive and consistent pieces i donate to new reefers in the hobby and friends that i get hooked on this incredibly hobby. this is my 46g bow front once i rehabbed it a few years ago: then i go to work on a custom sump for the inwall location this is what it looked like from the kitchen side: then after a year or so i figured out i need a better sump and more volume and built a space in my heating room in my basement where water would go all the way down to the basement to a 30g sump and push up to the tank. getting the hoses through: built a stand and my fish/sump room began to take form: then built my sump: then got my genesis reef systems AWC and top off and RODI top off system in place with skimmer and my other goodies. i call this "the wall" haha time passed,things really grew fast and i had more bad luck and good luck and learned a bunch: then i changed my landscaping for a more minimalistic design: one of my early favorites which grew and does very well today with regular feedings: then i started getting heavy into the coral propagation and fragging and meeting up with locals and swapping/selling, etc and i needed more space and a easier system to work with than climbing up to get into an in wall setup. soo...i started a 40 breeder frag tank: got the tank during the $1/gallon petco sale, drilled, plumbed, with a BRS overflow, with a sump and setup in one day and was pretty proud of myself, haha: it wasn't long before i got to fragging and picking up corals that the tank was full: picked up a pair of ORA clowns: picked up a tamron macro lens for the dslr and finally could take better photos: things continued to grow like madness and i fragged some more and i needed yet MORE space so i added a 40b to my frag system: and now both tanks are stocked full of frags and some that i am currently selling the FS section on here. others i am keeping to go into a new 360g display tank or a 180 display SPS reef tank that will replace both of the 40 frag tanks. the 180 i picked up from tony (ridetheducati) a few months back: i have aspirations to eventually sell corals as a side gig to try to make back some of the bucks and time i've donated to friends and newer folks in the hobby. i'm currently working on a website so i don't have to constantly be posting FS posts on here and eventually can just direct me to my site where it will be organized, clear when something is purchased and i can keep updated. and one day i'll make it a business hopefully. i started picking up deals where i can to get that started and have picked up some return pumps, a frag tank, a rubbermaid sump, a 120g commercial frag system, etc. but that's in the future, for now i want to get my story out there, introduce myself and hopefully get more active on this forum and share my knowledge and pick up a whole lot. oh, and i forgot to mention i picked up the d120 light fixtures in the last GB on here and it was seemless and well worth the effort. they have been working out really well with my SPS dominant frag setup tank and coloring things up nicely, too. and with the new apex-controllable versions coming out, i can imagine why someone would look elsewhere for LED fixtures. i really am becoming a fan of these and am eager to see if this will carry on long term or if the enjoyment will be short term. here's my light layout for anyone interested in a solid place to start for a full spectrum 18k look: ok, sorry for the rant but that's my story. i'll start a new build thread and pick up from here with it on the various builds i got going on. if you have any questions about anything that comes to mind reading this post, please PM me. i love helping where i can and have a lot to give back for all the guidance i've received even in the short few months i've been a member here! thanks, folks!

that's incredible! where did you find that beauty?

this was my experience with these specific lights but i undertand your skepticism and can appreciate it. i don't have a 40" deep tank but at 50% on both potentiometers, my SPS at 18" deep unfortunately "sizzled" away in a day i was away. thankfully, i came back when i did and was able to lower the intensity to 35 and 25% and borrow the PAR meter on here and determine a proper location for them. these lights with their DIY spectrum, affordable price tag, and great customer service (especially with US retailers now) are proving to be a great alternative.

you need to get the PAR meter at the bottom of that 40" depth and report back! at 50% intensity these guys will sizzle SPS in a jiffy if you aren't careful!

if you want to hang from the ceiling you can. just use longer wire or make your own hanging kit cheaper than that thing ecotech sells. it'd be a long run and you'd need a scaffold or ladder but definitely doable if you care to.

beautiful shots, thanks for sharing. low flow, low light? just placed a large order from the WWC 27-hourlive sale and want to keep these guys as happy as yours look for a while!

glad i talked to justin and found this. was looking in the member's GB section and never would have migrated over here. ordered two for my tanks and paid! thanks for the offer and coming to this board first!

what was the problem? what did you figure out?