monkiboy

nothing yet. it's an independent opportunity from the group buy as they are coming from a different source. for those that are interested, they can ship their lights to reefbreeders or simply purchase the dimmable drivers for DIY installation through a separate group buy i will put together once the opportunity has been locked down and all details worked out.

The 90° optics which are the ones built into the diode itself have wider spread than the 90° secondary optics, the ones that snap on. the 120° secondary optics have similar spread to the LEDs with no secondary optics.

"the 90° optics are on the LEDs themselves. they have about a 120° spread equivalent."

the LEDs of the evergrow fixtures are 90° optic LEDs.

and it's not near as effective if effective at all. while freshwater baths/dips function against a whole host of parasites, using a freshwater dip/bath for ich, for anything other than temporary relief for the fish, is not recommended. there have been several studies that show ich in trophont stage staying attached to fish after much longer than one should freshwater baths. i'd be more apt to use quinine-based meds and malachite green before using freshwater baths/dips.

to answer very simply the question in your thread title...seachem's cupramine. that being said, please do your research for optimal results and safety of your fish while using it.

looks good, sir. thanks for posting. i was gonna ask what wattage soldering iron used, thanks for posting that information. thermal paste is a nice touch too. not necessary but can only help, really. hope you enjoy the new layout!

no worries. thanks. nice. on my way...

thanks tony, you got it! the supernova will be/is a reefbreeders fixture not an evergrow fixture being resold as a reefbreeders. it will be engineered in the USA and possibly built in the USA as well. reefbreeders is not releasing much on the supernova at the moment. it is scheduled to be up for preorder by end of march/early april. it will be 24" and no other sizes are being planned for, for now. evergrow my be contacted to build them in the beginning, but it will absolutely not be available direct from them, or from any other retailers.

are you using straight bleach? i do a 10:1 dilution and haven't had any problems.

you can also just use dr. tims one and only or similar bacteria in a bottle product after each sterilization or setup of your QT tank. you can get a large bottle pretty cheaply and since QTs are usually pretty small, they last a while.

yeah just keep an eye out for a HOB filter for cheap on here. like Jan said, definitely no rock in QT. most common is PVC fittings and angles for hiding and homes of fish. they are easy to sterilize after use as well. if you need help or advice on your QT setup or treatment, you're local and it'd be easy and I'd be happy to help. that being said, there are some great threads lately with info on QT given our last meetings speaker focused on this topic.

no worries. replacing LEDs is very simple according to folks that have done it and written about their experience in the RC threads. take a look through them or search the threads for that topic and you'll find photos and experiences.

photos have been shared here in the past: http://wamas.org/for...e__hl__evergrow

take a look through the group buy thread. per the instructions and attachments, you have two ways to do the channel layout on a D120. either 28+27 (grid style) or 30+25 (columnar). to best match up the CREE LEDs to the bridgelux simply match up color temperature or wavelength. there aren't as many CREE offerings as bridgelux so some will not have an exact match. the available LEDs are listed as "warm white" or "cool white" in the group buy thread.

if it's a huge concern for you, then you can go with the IT series which allow the units to daisy-chain from one to the other leaving one power cord to be plugged in. yes, the d120 has two potentiometers, one for each channel. when we are able to work out the deal for the 1-10v drivers for the d120s for apex/rkl/etc control, there will be no potentiometers and everything will be handled by your aquarium controller.

60°, 90°, & 120° are the only available options through the group buy. you can try your luck with fitment with the ebay variety and options.

please go to the group buy thread and make it known.

yeah, i think you have a point given how high he has them mounted up above a 30" tall tank. there are members on here and RC with 27" and taller tanks with 90° optics very happy but hung lower. i still think 60° will be a better solution at his hanging height and with his tall tank for the reasons ridetheducati mentioned, though. ridetheducati posted a really nice PAR reading graph from his 27" tall tank and i believe that was 90° optics. correct me if i'm wrong, tony. all the information, in detail, is in the group buy thread, linked here - http://wamas.org/for...-led-groupbuy-4 check it out! the more, the merrier. the 1-10v dimmers i am working on. it's about 90% figured out. just working out the best pricing we can with the manufacturer, how to package it for purchase with lights, on their own for the DIY'er and making sure support is available for those looking to add them to current fixtures. you can check out the RC threads i link to in the group buy thread. read bhazard's contribution to the most recent thread. he had DIY CREE fixtures, mazspect, radions (first gen and 2nd) and compares them in the thread. in the end he swapped all his units out for the evergrows and keeps his CREE fixture for testing purposes. you are right in that the CREE are more efficient but bhazard prefers the evergrow because of price-point, reliability, performance, etc. you can DIY a much more power fixture and CREE has some LEDs that bridgelux does not and vice versa, but you don't need any more performance out of a fixture than what evergrow will deliver. most folks use 120° on their reds and greens for optimal spread. it's not typical to do so on the UV LEDs but UV LEDs are not available in this group buy as they are working on providing a better offering. that's what's awesome about the DIY fixtures and the evergrows is that you can order up extra optics and LEDs and easily swap them. and you can pick them up even cheaper now through this most recent group buy i posted. so you can play with it and figure out what works best for you. two d120s would be sufficient for most on a 48" x 18" tank. if you're trying to keep SPS along the edges and corners, it likely would not.

i have a kole yellow eye tang in QT now. almost everything you describe i have experienced. when i feed, he swims around in a fury with lots of energy. this is week three in QT for him and i've only seen him eat once. but i had tried the seaweed on a clip and on a pvc pipe and he doesn't eat while i'm there but the next day it's gone. it's odd but it has be getting consumed for him to be swimming so actively, pretty plump, and the seaweed to be gone every day. i do notice he pecks at the floor and likely picks up food while i'm gone that he doesn't eat while i'm there. stay at it and keep trying. as rob said, they aren't easy fish for captivity but with a bit of patience and persistence maybe you'll win out in the end.

+1, i've had success growing them but you really do need to spray them down at least once a day with fresh water and you have great chances at some beautiful mangroves under the correct lighting.

the 1-10v dimmable drivers are something that i am working a separate purchase of with reefbreeders. the chinese new year/spring festival has halted a lot of ongoing communication we had prior to the event, and we are picking things back up, negotiating the lowest prices possible, figuring out the logistics of getting the fixtures direct from evergrow to reefbreeders, and an option to provide the drivers to the DIY'er for their own installation. so for the time being get the fixture(s) that works best for you and your goals and soon i'll be posting more information on the 1-10v dimmable drivers. what kind of LEDs are you using on your existing fixtures? the LEDs on the evergrow units have 90° optics as part of their design. like ridetheducati said, i really can't imagine you would need anything more narrow than a 60° optic. i would try to stop by a home with a tank that has these lights to check out your concerns with these specific units and varying optics.

so no body has an answer yet?

it's caribseas "Hawaiian Black Arag-Alive! Live Reef Sand" - i've used it in a few systems now. love how it makes everything POP in the tank and doesn't get swept up with lots of flow.

weird. works now. i just copied the link from the browser from my video manager last time. but now it's working. i'll keep my eyes out for the correct syntax from now on. thanks tom!