reefmontalvo

Merry Christmas to all. I think I will get my tank a gift for being really nice this year.

You did good. A staph infection is no joke. I will see if Monte the JRT can cheer your spirits up a notch.

You made a fine choice last night. The reef ready tank I helped load in the vehicle last night is the old style made of plate glass. I would start looking at different types of sand. You will find there are many differnet types of substrate you can place in a tank. I used to have sugar sand, very nice stuff the problem is you get on sand sifting goby in there and the stuff blows around like fresh snow on a wintery day. On the other hand course sand doesnt look as cool when the animals build caves but it has good microbial properties. In my tank I have the medium / course type. I mixed course with medium sides sand I have not had any cyano build up and the hermits snails and zoas seem to like the stability of the sand. My yellow gobies are able to dig and build a nest and the rock work has not shifted too much. As for rocks I like to start off with plain dry rock then place a few pieces of live rock to allow the culture of bacteria to naturally rise in population. I have done this process in many of my tanks and it seems to work many wonders. I would also keep the current light setup you have now until you find a great deal on MH lights. I like you know how the budget gets and you should have the best but with time you will have all the equipment you will be needing. A carbon/phosphate reactor is a must have on any marine fish tank.

I think its cool. Kinda gives you that lost Aztec city feel. I think I might go that route on my next tank rock build. Jan Do you know what material they built the "rock work"?

Over skimming can be a bad thing. You do want some organics in the water to feed the micro-organisms that help with the over all bio diversity of the tank.

Compound circular saw.

I like the scraping fins on the stir stick keeps all the powder from getting rock hard on the bottom.

Jan, As an aircraft mechanic with many 10+ years in fuselage structres and general flight operation of aircraft the cargo pit of any domestic or international flight is pressurized and will not be subjected to the cold enviroment at 30k plus feet, so basically it will not be -30 in the cargo area. To make a long story short if you pack the coral in tightly sealed double bagged you will be fine and they will not freeze. The coldest it gets in the cargo pit is about 70. And unless you have a dog or cat going into the cargo pit area (in a kenel) they most likely want the animal to be check by the vet for approval to fly in the event the animal dies (which happend the other day to one unlucky family) on a United flight in bound from Rome.

Im pretty sure if you mention your screen name they will let you in the door. Or if you show up to the door with a container full of frags Im sure the bouncer will let you in and collect the money from you next time.

Leave them be!! There great bottom feeders and are of no harm. I even made it a point to salvage a few for the new tank I setup last year just to make sure the substrate got cleaned.

I had the same thing happen on my Blue Hippo. I woke up one day and saw a shiner on the right eye. I thought it was "pop eye", I left him alone in about 4-5 days the eye set back into his head and returned to normal, then about two months later the left eye did the same thing. I just ignored the problem kept feeding him garlic soaked dry food and the eye has settled back into place. It has been about 6 months now and I havent had any issues.

Brightwell's Kalk +2

Keep the bank involved in the event they dont ship your tank. You can always get your full refund from there bank.

Geln, Good work man. Have you installed the CJ pipes? If you do I have to stop by the house to see the performance output.

There workhorses tough as nails.

I

That is a very nice picture.

1.026-1.027 83 during daylight hrs in Winter 81 at sun down 84 during daylight hrs in Summer 81 at sun down

I still think it looks good. I see the frags I gave you are growing fast. Glad there happy in there new home.

After going from dosing 2-part B-Ionic to kalk +2 I will never use anything different again.

Cash sent.

I find it easier to run a heater in the sump. But it is rare when my heater runs since the tank is heated by the lights and the heat given off by the pumps. I run a temp of about 84 in the day time and then it drops to about 80 in the evening as the lights go off. In the winter the tank remains at or about 79 and the sump at or about 82. I have had great growth rates with lots of my corals.

Go see BRK and get your tank. But also make sure you vent out the excess humidity or get a dehumidifier. I know it has made wonders in my house.

Cyano is an opportunistic bacterium. It will take advantage of the excess nutrients in the tank. If you introduce other bacteria in the tank it will out complete the cyano. A good bacteria would be like micro bacter 7 from Brightwell. Along with proper water flow and lights. There have been times were I go months with no water changes. The name of the game with cyano is reducing the excess nutrients.

I once had a pink birdsnest fall on the Superman monti for about 3minutes. It was not pretty I thought the Superman was a gonner but it came back.