reefmontalvo

Jumpn' Jesus on a pogo stick !! That must take a huge amount of time? I just got my entire set up online. I'm allowing the sponge filters to do there job for a week or so. Then introduce the neon gobies. My main goal be fore I started was to get the phytoplankton culture growing a keep it that way with out a crash. From all the reading and actually applying the science to all this I found it's all about keeping track of the differnet cycles and writing down all the progress. So far I have a healthy culture running and when the fish start laying eggs I will begin the rotifers and harverst them for both the reef tank and the fry. And with the extra Phyto I will also feed it to the display tank.

Well I currently have all the equipment setup to run a hubsandry system. Got the Phyto bubbling and ready to have the culture spilt. The next thing is the get to get the Rotifers to start there process and I even have a hathery and stationary tank for the brine shrimp. My goal is to breed Neon Gobies, then move over the Bangi's one I feel all is well. And yes this is a nice thread.

It looks like just regular interlocking aluminum excrusion. I agree a fine tooth high speed circular saw followed by a fast debur sanding on the cuts is all that is needed.

Very nice. That is what the pro's use.

Jan, A good practice I learned was when you get a new frag, place it on the bottom of the tank directly on the sand. This allows the new frag to get used to the new lights it will be living under, then after about two weeks maybe three I raise it up a few inches along the rock wall letting it get used to lights. I have had corals in the past turn brown due to a sudden color intensity change. But if you leave it in the same spot it will or should gain its color back. If you really need help you can always drop it off at my house and pick up your frag which I might have to frag it out. LOL

The folks at Ecotech are the best. They are fellow hobbyst. I got really good support from them a few months back when I had some issues with my controllers.

What happen to the CJ stand pipe?

I know this is old. I just offically started my Phyto Cultures today. I got the starter culture from Florida Aquatic Farms also got enough f2 to last a lifetime well that is what my friend told me when he saw the bottle. I will be keeping a detailed log as to keep track of the progress.

I would put a ball valve on the output side of the pump to slow that water down. OR you can just get a smaller pump rated at half the gph of the current RIO in the tank.

As often as I look at my tank everyday, I wouldn't know what grew until it hit me in the face. So for that I make it a point to photo journal every coral I get from the first day it enters the tank. It is cool to look back and see what your doing to maintain healthy growth.

+1 on that. I have been having fish for many years, and shed many tears. The lesson I tell everybody is time and simplicity is all it takes to maintain a marine tank.

Great work Sid. The tank is looking better.

Dang!!!! That is looking really sweet. I put a fish or two and throw in a few zoa colonies and some ric colonies and call it a day. That is a really good job. It almost looks like you went deep diving of an under sea rock wall and took a chunk of the sea scape with you.

I support that 100%. After installing my ATO system and intergrated it with my Kalk stirrer. I found my self concentrating on my important things, like skimmer performance and making sure I have properly set water movement in the tank.

I noticed with consistancy you get better results. I found in my tank I riased the salinity to 1.026 and I have been having great results. I also am strick as H.ell when it comes to take tops offs of fresh water in the tank. And I did notice a nice growth in all my zoas after the salinity raise. Also I never directly feed my zoas I generally will just mix a small dose of cyclopeze in a cup target feed a few things like the Acans and then just dump the cup in the water to natrually feed what ever else feed in the water column.

Check your salinity, if its less than 1.024 raise to 1.026 and they will bounce right back, and hit them with a little bit of cyclopeze's at night when there feeding.

Great tank Janice. Glad to see some great pictures.

This was given to me by a friend because he thought it was not going to live any longer due to lack of light being tanken by the other much larger corals.

I feel Mg is a very important aspect of Kalkwasser, even if it is not in the mixture. Tom, I think your right about my Mg consumption. But I also know I'm going thru Ca probably in the same speed. Since there both consumed by the flesh of the corals now for Strontium I think it is used in the calcium absorption process. But I'm not really sure all I know is there are trace amounts of Strontium in the tank.

Zoa's are kinda finiky. I found some colonies really enjoy light and some really enjoy the bottom of the tank were there is less light. I'm currently experimenting with my Ice blue zoa's seeing were they would most perfer the light.

I hope you all enjoy this read as much as I did. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/32222783/ns/wo...rld_environment

I currently try to at least do 5 gallons a week with Reef Crystals, but I have not done a water change in about 3 weeks. So I feel the Mg number is a good indicator of what the Kalk is actually doing.

I saw that tank and its stand up in Tacoma Park, MD fully stocked with LPS and SPS corals. It is a very nice and large tank. Both Glen and I agree the original stand for that exact tank is a bit on the short side and you dinf your self looking over the tank rather than thru the tank. But I know he has some great guys helping him with the work.

Tom, I just finished my test and I found between 1290 to 1260 ppm of Mg in my tank test with a Salifert kit. I think the Kalk+2 is a major contributor to the Mg levels. I hope this helps with those snippy folks. And Tom you have been to my house and seen my setup so you know this is a real assesment.

Well I guess the next step is getting the actual tank on the stand.