Jon Lazar

Found a converter. 140ppm is 7.8dKH.

I would try target feeding it late at night or very early in the morning when it's in feeding mode with all its little tentacles out. Something small like cyclopeeze. Feeding won't address the underlying problem (unless that IS the problem), but it may slow the decline.

The only place I've had damage is directly behind the sump where my skimmer was. After 8 years the latex paint was bubbling off the drywall in a 1 square foot patch. I scraped off the old paint, lightly sanded, and repainted. The drywall underneath was fine.

Put even a modest airstone just below the wet side of an MP pump and your tank will be filled with tons of microbubbles. It will look like the inside of your skimmer. MP and Gyre pumps both accept 12V battery inputs. Other powerheads may as well. Add a sealed lead acid battery and a trickle charger and you've got your own reefing UPS with better efficiency than an AC inverter. I'm going to assemble a 12V battery backup for my MPs and Gyres even though I have a whole house generator. I can foresee a scenario where a tank breaker pops, and the generator won't come on for that. But the powerheads will switch over to the 12V backup immediately, and this will keep my fish alive.

Have you considered removing the corner overflows and installing a low-profile internal overflow box like the Shadow/Ghost? It's more work: it requires plugging your existing holes with bulkheads and drilling the back wall of your tank. But the real estate you gain back is remarkable. You can still do a bean animal plumbing setup.

I always recommend folks use the heavy duty gray schedule 80 bulkheads. The ABS bulkheads are cheaper, but it's not uncommon IME for them to crack with routine use. I point this out now because the heavy duty bulkheads require a slightly wider hole.

I bought my ORA fiagros from Liveaquaria.

There's no requirement to sand clean, bare wood before painting or staining. Sanding removes dirt and other contaminants from the surface of the wood; creates the right amount of texture for paint to mechanically adhere; and, smooths down stray wood fibers. If you want something functional and don't need a high-quality finish, skip the sanding.

I love adjustable leveling feet for this kind of thing. They have to be heavy duty and reasonably rustproof. These ones are rated at 4000lbs each. Put a t-nut and one of these in the bottom of each post, and level away to your heart's content.

A lettuce nudibranch will eat bryopsis, but not common hair algae.

I don't know what it is, but I know what it isn't. It's not velvet, brook, ich, or flukes, unless there are other symptoms too. Does the fish spend a lot of time swimming directly into areas of high flow? Does the fish avoid being in the lights, but comes out if the lights go out? These are both behavioral symptoms of gill parasites. Are you doing some sort of prophylactic treatment while in QT, like copper? If you answered no to all of the above, it might be a bacterial infection or a fungal infection. Bacterial infections are reportedly much more common that fungal infections. Therefore, I would treat with antibiotics. Treatment consists of kanaplex, metroplex, and furan-2 at the same time. This gives wide-spectrum treatment for gram positive and gram negative bacteria, and they're safe to use together.

Have you had it for a long time and now it's not opening up? I would give it a few days. Or is it a new addition that won't open up? I would suspect too much light or too much flow. Move the coral to a more shady spot and see how it does. If it's a new coral, it's possible it came with a type of flatworms that prey on frogspawn. But it's much more likely that the coral thinks your lights are too bright.

Measure twice; cut once!

Probably injury. I would try to fatten the fish up though. You shouldn't be able to see the fish's spine. Keep nori in the tank so he can graze all the time, and in a few weeks he'll be a healthy weight.

If you get any TDS out of the unit, it means the DI resin is exhausted.

Firstly, congratulations! Orchid dottybacks are prototgynous hermaphprodites: born female and the dominant one turns male. Sort of the opposite of clownfish. Get two young ones and they'll pair up. Or get a large and small.

Real Ziploc bags. Not the knock off ones.

I wouldn't mess around with concrete. You're going to have a hard time making a well-shaped form that's level on top and thick enough not to crack. 3/4" slope over a 24" span is a lot of slope! Is there something going on with the floor you need to fix? Is it something simple like a carpet tack strip at the base of the wall? If you can't level the floor and don't want to use shims or leveling feet, I would just tear the base of the stand apart and redo it with the right slope built in.

I use braided metal lines on my RO/DI for the part that's always under pressure (between the water source and the control solenoid). The braided lines are compression thread, and the RODI uses pipe thread, so you have to buy fittings that are compression on one side and pipe thread on the other. Pretty sure I found the braided line and all the fittings at Home Depot. Another option is to buy a water cooler and sign up for delivery service.

Red sponge slug - In general, ornamental sponges grow slowly and don't thrive in captivity. Being eaten by a slug won't help. Being eaten by hundreds of baby slugs will be even less helpful. The slug will continue to lay eggs so long as it has food to eat. White thing- Can't tell what it is from the picture. Describe it. Is it alive? Is it hard like a crab or soft like a slug? Does it have legs? How many? Anemone-probably aiptasia with curly tentacles. The oral disk also looks like aiptasia. IME peppermint shrimp excel at eating aiptasia, but they don't mess with the kinds of anemones we like to collect. Keep the frag with the peppermint shrimp. Creepy tentacle-A harmless detrivore; maybe a spaghetti worm. Safe for mushroom corals.

Quick latch pipe hangers like these:

Try Discosoma sanctithomae.

IIRC, the Aquabus 12v power has very low amperage and is only capable of carrying a signal; not powering a device. Neptune goes to great lengths warning people not to plug their USB devices into the Aquabus port.

I would research their natural depth and environment to help narrow your search,

Remove the sediment filter and carbon block from inside their housings and re-run your checks. If TDS is still higher, then it's an instrumentation error. If TDS #2 drops so that it's the same at both locations, then the filter or carbon block is releasing tiny amounts of dust. You can run additional checks with different combinations to figure out which is causing the increase. Either way, I wouldn't worry about a slight rise in measured TDS _before_ the RO membrane. The sediment filter and carbon block aren't intended to reduce TDS anyway. The RO membrane will take care of nearly all the TDS, and the DI will remove whatever gets by the RO.