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  1. bues0022

    My Coral Rehabilitation Project

    What's your secret? You have some very impressive results - corals that I would have almost guaranteed were toast you have brought back.
  2. Whoa. Pics or it didn’t happen!!
  3. bues0022

    Grey Sch 40 conduit

  4. bues0022


    That’s an interesting video. In general it makes sense - more smaller frags means more linear frag edge length for growth. It would be interesting if they have have any data on the frag edge length, and could normalize the data to understand if frags actually grow quicker when they are smaller, or if it is just more edges to grow, thus it fills in quicker (thinking mostly about encrusting-types that only grow outward on the edge) for acros and stags, a well respected guy in MN where I came from swore by fragging only the tips of his corals. I think he actually did a “grow out”, where growth from tip frags (1/4” - 1/2”) grew faster and by a certain time point were actually bigger than the multi-inch frags he cut. He thought it had something to do with less damage to the coral so less to repair before getting back to growing, and sincethe tips were already on active growth, they were more deadly to encrust the base.
  5. bues0022

    Baby clownfish

    Volume. The ocean is big. Also, it takes us humans a LOT of work to try to duplicate (in such small scale) that which is naturally occurring. Phyto, rotifers, pods, small food, the list goes on. Even still, an extraordinary few eggs survive to adult. Clownfish can easily spawn 500 eggs every two weeks. If even a few percent reached adulthood our oceans would be thick with clowns.
  6. bues0022

    Medusa Worm, Good or Bad ?

    From what I understand, anemone aren't toxic the way the creatures being discussed here are. Anemones - if they should meet a powerhead - are hard on tanks from a nutrient standpoint. There's a lot of biomass that is now going to be decaying in the tank. Similar if a clam should die, one should take it out quick because it's a large mass of goop which can cause pretty serious nutrient spikes. The creatures discussed here (cucumbers, medusa worms, sea apples) as Tom said can be great for the tank. However, if they should die, they have toxins inside their bodies which can be released which can harm tank inhabitants (this is NOT the same kind of water fouling as a nutrient spike). Some stories of medusa worms even sound like one getting injured/cut, but surviving is enough to have the animal release its toxins and kill fish.
  7. bues0022

    Medusa Worm, Good or Bad ?

    my quick search: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2145660 I know what I'd do....
  8. bues0022

    What fish eat zoa?

    Back a number of years ago I had some problems with some brown polyps taking over my tank. I had a very bad experience using kalk paste (I tried siphoning as much out as possible, but params still went wack). Instead what I did was just used some kalk water in a syringe. I mixed the water, let a bunch of the heavy particulate fall out, drew it up into a 10ml syringe. Then I put a needle on it (I was working with a dog rescue foster group, so I could get these easily without feeling like a druggie), and I poked through the stalk of the polyp and injected just a little bit. It died pretty quick. I did a few polyps every couple of days until they were all gone.
  9. bues0022

    Lowering Alk (And how did it get so high?!)

    Water changes are an obvious sure fire way to bring it down. Clams suck a LOT of ca and alk from the water. That would be my bet. If you didn’t adjust dosing after it died, there is less alk uptake thus dissolved alk goes up.
  10. bues0022

    Ricordia woes

    I’ve had this one orange ric for about 6 months. When I got it, it split within 2 weeks and I thought things were looking up (even though it was only about the size of a nickel). Well, it’s been on a very slow demise ever since. Now it’s about pencil eraser sized, and I feel it just barely hanging on before melting away completely. I’ve had it in high flow, low flow, high light to low light. Currently it’s on the bottoms in medium flow. My water isn’t the cleanest, but sps are growing and my other ric night next to it is doing just fine. What gives? I’ve started to try to target feed it, but it’s only taken a little bit once a few days ago - will try again tonite. My mushrooms also aren’t splitting and growing either, so I’m confused what I’m not doing because I had a hard time stopping shrooms from growing previously. Tips are much appreciated. I’d like to save this little guy if possible.
  11. bues0022

    Coral Dipping - What have you tried?

    I dipped my zoas just recently with a really aggressive one-two punch. 15 minutes in a solution of 90% RO water, 10% HP (the regular HP from walmart), followed by a swish in iodine water (2 drops of betadine (which is I believe 10% Iodine compared to Lugols which is somewhere around 2-3% I believe) in 2 cups of tank water), followed by swishing in the HP solution, then back in tank. The zoas didn't open up for almost 2 weeks, and the ones that looked rough before the dip completely melted away. I'm not sure I'd go that aggressive again. I think 15 minutes was too long.
  12. bues0022

    Ideas for last fish?

    I have a 30 cube, and I’m undecided on what I want for my last fish. So far: pair of percs firefish hectors goby diamond goby I really like the different colors/shapes/personalities of all of the fish, but I’d love to have a fish that spends more time swimming in the water column. I have a peaceful mixed reef, so things like dwarf angels are out. I’m browsing fish online, but any suggestions are appreciated. Maybe a a pair of Chromis? Would and orchid dottyback be too aggressive if I only get one, as I don’t think I have room for a pair? Edit: I don’t care for cardinal fish of any color.
  13. bues0022

    Canopy weight?

    I'm going to quick hijack to tell Jon what I did under my current tank: I don't actually like using foam for my tank. I have a "lip" on my stand so my tank actually sits "inside" the top of the stand (molding is all the way around the exterior bottom of the tank) So if I use thick enough foam to make me feel better, it raises the tank too high. If I use thing foam/rubber, then I feel that while I still spread out the point loads a little, it's not much really and I still have areas of high/low contact forces. So, I know this won't work for everyone in every circumstance, but it worked brilliantly for me. I laid down a very thick bead of construction adhesive on my stand. I then covered this bead with two layers of cling wrap. VERY carefully, with two people (only a 40 gallon tank, but I had to be careful) we set the tank down as close to vertically onto the cling wrap. The construction adhesive squirted out everywhere, but the cling wrap stopped it from touching my tank. I let it sit for a day, the pulled the tank off. The cling wrap peeled right off (did not stick in the least), and I was left with a perfectly smooth, and hard surface to put my tank back on. No high spots, no low spots - I checked with a straight edge. In the uncured form, the putty-like consistency of the adhesive formed a conformable thickness interstitial layer between the stand and the tank. When cured, the entire tank is supported perfectly. Back to the regularly scheduled program.....
  14. bues0022

    Acropora Eating Flatworm ID

    That thread is simply amazing! He completely sidestepped the panic mode and went straight to curious researcher. Threads like this are invaluable with understanding for the rest of us to most directly treat the issues - and one cannot treat without knowledge, documentation, and experimentation to know what works and why. Very good thinking to archive the images before his passing. It is too bad his enthusiasm for the hobby and thirst for knowledge is no longer with us.