wildcrazyjoker81

I use it for Hanna and Salifert as it really makes things much easier for both. The titration test are the main reason I got the pill as it can mix it as drops are added so you instantly see the color change as you are adding. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

The must haves for me have always been Alk, Nitrate high range, and Phosphate ULR. The nitrate I guess I could just do a salifert/redsea as I just want to realistically know I'm above 0 and not too high, but I do like knowing a number.The others like calcium/magnesium are a pain to do and that for me makes them not worth while. I think the tools that have elevated my testing game are a magnetic pill stirrer to mix the reagent/powders and using a measured pippette to get exact amounts of liquid versus trusting the Hanna checker line. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Considering it has phosphorus in it and removes fluoride (which I dose daily on reefers moonshine) I don't think I would ever put this into a reef tank.

I can honestly say I personally wouldn't ever spend big money on a return pump again personally. Been through my share of ecotech returns for sure. I'm in the mindset that I can buy 3 new Jebao/Jecod returns for the price of one "high end" and have multiple new replacements. That said the Sicce and Reef Octo returns both do have good self cleaning ports so that part is nice. The reef octo is also very small in size for the output they provide. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Hopefully somebody closer has something for you if not I have weld-on 16 down in Stafford. Can bring it to work with me in Sterling tomorrow if that helps any. Aaron Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I'm in Stafford and have 100G on hand at all times and your more than welcome to grab what you need. I know I'm not the closest and hope someone closer responds.

A few other options on the market like Fauna Marin, ATI, Reeflabs, Oceamo, etc, but probably more expensive than the one closing. I have used ATI for years and besides the two+ weeks it takes for results it's been pretty solid. Now that I'm on reefers moonshine I'm using Oceamo. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

This is very hard to answer only because every tank is setup so different and has different biome/bacteria. I guess I would start with knowing if you maybe have too much bio filtration/media as that is great at producing bacteria that consume NO3. Also any type of macroalgae running? Another great consumer of NO3. The list can keep doing, feeding regiment, carbon dosing, skimmer hours, etc. NO3 is actually a bit more difficult to keep elevated with current technologies that we use on tank builds. I had to remove bio bricks from two of my tanks to help NO3 from bottoming out and even then once the corals grew out I had to dose again. That said I do run fuges on both systems so I know that doesn't help. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Definitely could use a DOS head for this purpose. You have to have an idea of your evaporation to gauge how much you can dose. There isn't a set calculation that I am aware of since each tank will evaporate water amounts differently. Just start slow and work your way up. Your ATO will still make up the difference. In my instance I dose kalk at a 6ml/min via a doser 24/7 on my 100G SPS system full time and even then my ATO still has to run for top off. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

You have two options. Either use a separate dosing pump to push fluid through the kalk stirrer (either on a timer or via the control of the doser) which IMO is the best way to run kalkwasser, or you plug your ATO feed line into the kalk stirrer and let it push water through everytime your tank needs top off. It's a fairly straightforward concept, but takes time to get it dialed in. Testing will be your best friend while getting it setup for your tanks needs. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I have personally had 5x more Ecotech MP magnets rust and bust over my Jebaos, but alas all magnets will go at some point in this hobby. Sorry to hear it. Definitely a good public announcement for everyone to check their gear! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

It's hard to beat the nicrew as it basically stole the design of the G4 radio which I still firmly believe is the best light they have ever made. Control is done manually on the fixture or with a kessil controller. All depends if you are the set it and forget type or have to constantly tinker with the light on a phone app. If I were buying a new LED today it would probably be a reefi uno/duo if I was willing to pay a bit more, but on a budget it's super hard to beat the nicrews. A guy down in Richmond (Ben Jones) has tons of high end corals under them and they are all growing and coloring like crazy.

So IMO this exact situation is the problem with all for reef long term. Alk uptake will always be more than calcium/mag and the majority of trace. So with all for reef you would just need to dose more to get the alk back up, but keep an eye out as it will elevate everything else as well. I personally would just add in some soda ash or straight alkalinity supplement to get it back up to around 8ish dkh. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I would definitely think two would work for LPS and such. One gyre would cover the whole tank I bet, but depends if you like that style of flow as it is different than a traditional power head like the Nero. There really isn't a right or wrong answer on that front.

I got some for you for free [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Probably a limpet. I have hundreds of them and they are good cleanup crew. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

You have ATB (Aquarium and Terrarium Builders) down in Yorktown area. He builds nice stuff for the price and isnt terribly far. Probably easiest to find him on Facebook. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Milwaukee has been around for a very long time in the PH game and many use their PH controllers on Calcium Reactors, so that would be my choice. The MC120 is probably the best overall choice IMO. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Doesnt affect it's mouth so I would assume it's not an issue. If anything more camouflage for it to be hidden which in the wild I bet is common. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Contact RedSea and they will more than likely send you a new tank. Sadly this is a very common occurrence with RedSea tanks. Sorry to hear it! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Dang sorry to hear it. Definitely borrow/get a Rubbermaid tub and set that up until you have time to evaluate the situation and make a decision on going forward. I mean sometimes you gotta have the mentality of tanks being like cars. Sometimes newer cars break too. I'm down in Stafford but willing to help any way I can. Aaron 757-648-9401 Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

That is amazing! I have a pair of Japanese Swallowtails and got them both in at the same time and size. One has made the shift to male getting much larger and streamers. Can't wait until he gets the bars and color change. I lucked out and things have been smooth sailing for the past 8 months with them both. It is a species of angel that is hard to ignore being basically completely reef safe. I too in the past have been through a few sets trying to pair them as its not easy. The thing that has worked for me twice (once bellus and now swallowtail) is just getting them both really small and praying they are both female and nothing has shifted yet. I definitely wouldn't risk adding another as it could force a change of the current female into male, which is something anthias and wrasses seem to do a lot when the numbers of them change.

I kinda went down a rabbit hole a few months ago on heaters. Wanted to try out the new IM Helio PTC heater as that is the newest tech, but I'm definitely not one to adopt new tech in something as important as a heater as I read a lot of negative reviews that gave me an uneasy feeling. Finnex titanium and ehiem are always the old go to, but after reading and talking with a buddy in Italy who breeds discus I went with the BRS heaters. They are made by Schego and are great Germany made heaters. I like the fact they seem to pull less amperage than Finnex heaters per watt which is important on bigger wattage heaters. I've had the 600w one for 3 years and clean it twice a year and it has been rock solid. I have a spare in the closet for the day it dies or acts up. Just my thoughts on the topic. I'd love to hear some local successful stories on the PTC heaters. Aaron Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Pm sent

Your call if you want to redo the plumbing or not. I just know the orings definitely need to be replaced if your seeing salt creep/leaks. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk