FearTheTerps

Temp is to 76 now, all still looks good.

I have the heaters on a Ranco controller, which is what was actually turned off. Basicly its only good for if a heater gets stuck in the ON position, doesnt do much good when the operator turns it off. No need for a big budget controller here, my little set up doesnt need one IMO and my wallet doesnt need the dent either.

Last night my top off reservior was running low, and I didnt feel like carrying a bucket full of water up 2 flights of stairs from the basment so I just turned off the pump and decided to re fill it today. Well when I refilled it I noticed I didnt turn the ATO pump off I actually turned my heater off instead!!!!!! Everything on my power station is labeled, it was just dark when I flipped the switch. Palm meet forehead Good thing is the pump for my ATO never ran dry. The temp in the tank fell to 73 but it feels ice cold. Everything looks ok as far as corals ( my borneman anemones look a little different but not bad) and the fish are all out swimming around. I guess im just gonna let the heater bring everything back up to temp, I have 2 150W heaters for the tank. 55 gallon with a 20 gallon fuge. Or do you think they might bring the temp back up too fast? maybe unplug one? I know the temp swing is more harmful then the lower temp.

I think the Kole will be fine in a 75, best choice of tangs for a 4 ft tank

BUMP, come on, Mike hasnt won yet!!!!

Im pretty sure I have read somewhere that PAR readings arent comparible from LEDs to T5/MH. I dont recall where that was or anything else much about it. Can anyone else help jog my memory?

I still dont see a seahorse lol

down the drain

One solution I thought of was building the square frame around the pipes, and then using some thin plexi glass to cover the holes left between the pipes and frame. Attach it to the frame with some velcro for easy removal and to also hold it in place firmly. This is the idea I like best so far, I dont have any jumpers yet so I havent got around to trying it out yet.

Ive thought about this too, I have a large HOB skimmer and 2 pipes from my fuge that comes down in the DT. I know I would have to build around the skimmer, but that shouldnt be hard considering its a square shape. The pipe isnt an easy to work around though. I didnt want to just cut the screen, because then it would make it hard to remove when I need to do spot feedings or any other maintenance. Still havent thought of a good workaround.

This month's topic will be..... Feeding Frenzy Show us your fish or corals at feeding time. Thanks to Mike(BowieReefer84) for suggesting the topic this month. GUIDELINES Submissions must be made by September 24 Photo size: At least 800 x 600 ONE submission per person. To be included in the voting, your submission must also have the following information: Submitters: Name, BBName Location: where it's taken (who's tank, ocean, etc) Camera Used: (if not available please say unknown) Subject: (what title/picture name/picture of)

I gotta remember this is a family site.... Go slow, dont push hard, and use lots of lubricates Drilling your own tank is pretty easy, it can be nerve racking but its fun to DIY. Best advice is to go slow, and let the drill and the bit go all the work. You dont have to push on the drill at all, just let the weight of the drill press down on the glass. I recommend making a template when you start, I always have trouble keep the bit in place. Be careful when you get close to cutting all the way through, The first tank I drilled I broke because I let the drill slip in the hole and cracked the glass.

I think the reflectors would get too hot from the T5s and not work well as a heat sink for LEDs Honestly, I would just stick with the T5s. With an 8 bulb fixture you have tons of combinations of bulb colors that you can use to get the right color that you want.

I have a non reef ready 72, but all the reef ready ones I've seen have the overflow box on left hand portion of the tank, but not in the corner. I'm away from the house for the weekend, but I believe the depth at the side is 13 inches on my tank. The only other member I know for sure that has a 72 is Travis, screenname trockafella, shoot him a pm.

Congrats Darren.

Congratulations to Chad, this month's winner.

I'll give my honest opinion. Alot of the information you gave is basic knowledge that can be found in a lot of different places, also some of the information is wrong. In the article about tank crashes you dont talk about how to find the cause of the problem, only ways to "fix" a problem. I wouldnt call getting ich a crash, and I dont have a clue what a bacteria crash is? Ich treated in QT should be alot longer then 35 days, almost double that really, your DT should be left fishless for 6-8 weeks by most people's advice. The biggest thing I had a problem with is that you keep a 14 inch lion fish in a 55 gallon tank? A standard 55 is only 13 inches wide, that tank is nowhere big enough for it. Take you own advice and do some research about your livestock you intend to keep. I would leave the atricle writing and advice giving to someone more knowlegable then yourself, there are plenty of great books out there about the hobby that people can learn from. Disinformation and opposing opinions run rampant in this hobby, no need to add fuel to the fire.

was it just that one "parent" polyp that had larvae in it, or did the other polyps have them as well?

Sean from Fins&Feathers had a thread a few months ago about hydrogen peroxide dips. http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/41043-treating-algae-with-h2o2peroxide/

He changed his name to OHCOCINCO, enough said.

5 grand, you gotta be kidding me. I wanna be best friends with the guy who buys that thing.

you can see them a little bit, definitely looks like a polyp. I wonder how long till they start to take on a darker color.

+1 on the Fji Purple, good for bringing out reds

those squirrels have a really weird appetite.

Thanks to everyone that submitted a picture this month.