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I'm stumped


hawkfish01

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I dont think its the water either because we use for all tanks and no other problems in them..no hair algae..yeah i might pm john and see if any issues lately..i know one time that the salinty may have been slightly off and we were told so we could check before any water changes..

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Dont sea hares nuke tanks if they croak or get harrassed??

I have never had a tank crash from a sea hare releasing ink or dying. They will clean the algae up quickly but you will need to find it a new home once the algae is gone so it doesn't starve.

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Ok..if i ever see one again...would solve hair prob efficently and naturally..its just confusing to me thats all...never had hair algae bad before..this is even tufted on the sand/coral bed...>8(

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BRK is a local vendor Blue Ribbon Koi. Since you have been so active on our boards lately you should stop in for the social they are having this weekend.

Sounds great, how close to Long Island is it?

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I used to freaked out from "algae" when I first start reefing. After awhile, I no longer care. They come and go.  You can control it by manually labor.   

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Whatever you decide to do with this don’t rush it. Hair Algae is a sign of excessive nutrients, and above all else it is efficient at sequestering those nutrients. Cut down on the feeding for now and wait a month to observe any effects. While you do that manually remove, or get some snails. I would try this before you use GFO. Not that I don’t think it will work, I just advise simplicity and taking ones time when it comes to a reef tank :)

 

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I used to freaked out from "algae" when I first start reefing. After awhile, I no longer care. They come and go.  You can control it by manually labor.   

 

 

+1 I feel the same way

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(edited)

i have to admit, i don't freak about hair algae and actually will leave some here and there as I think it gives a little more natural look....as a diver I don't recall ever seeing shallow reefs with no algae and I kinda like it...as I also see the mandarins hunting in it I assume the pods like to breed in it as well....so I leave some strategically in a controlled area....after 10 years you learn not to sweat the small stuff in this hobby. 

Edited by sachabballi reef
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Well i wouldnt worry but i dint want her frags to get overwhelmed... We have a couple snails in place and i just cleaned some off the rocks and cleaned the circulation fans... Its funny the left side shows no hair at all..go figure.. And removed the clumps from the sand... Now if i could get it off the wall in back...8/

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i have to admit, i don't freak about hair algae and actually will leave some here and there as I think it gives a little more natural look

I have some Romain Lettuce algae in my "Mini Pico Nano" tank along with diatoms and green water even though I have a lighted sump/refugium and I use ozone and dose Vodka. Is that bad?

 

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/urchsearch/IMG_2334.jpg

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I have some Romain Lettuce algae in my "Mini Pico Nano" tank along with diatoms and green water even though I have a lighted sump/refugium and I use ozone and dose Vodka. Is that bad?

 

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/urchsearch/IMG_2334.jpg

 

You look ready for a tang.

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Paul's right. If you were to stop feeding your tank, provided that there is no other entry for phosphates into the system (such as phosphate leaching rock), the algae will consume and lock up all that is available to it. If you harvest the algae, you're actually exporting "solid" nutrients. It's a very efficient means of export and that's why some hobbyists swear by algae turf scrubbers. In most cases, though, people just don't like the algae where it is. However, if there's a constant influx of nutrients that are not being taken up by other, competing means (such as bacteria), the algae will grow and grow and grow. Your real goal here is to establish a balance that pushes hair algae out of the picture. To that end, I think it's useful to understand and to the extent possible, limit, the sources, and promote nutrient uptake (whether it be to increase uptake capacity through a more developed biological filter or through other means such as GFO).

 

This kind of thing always boils down to a really simple concept - available energy and competition for that energy. In this case it's nutrients and competition for the nutrients.

 

So, if you get the nutrient input under control and are able to let the algae clean up the water for you, then you can beat this by simply harvesting the algae by pulling it out as it becomes unable to sustain itself.

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Paul's right. If you were to stop feeding your tank, provided that there is no other entry for phosphates into the system (such as phosphate leaching rock), the algae will consume and lock up all that is available to it.

 

Really!  No one ever agrees with me, I am beside myself.  I used to be over there ----------------->  But now I am beside that

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Really!  No one ever agrees with me, I am beside myself.  I used to be over there ----------------->  But now I am beside that

That would make you over here <<==========

 

He still needs to figure out the source of all the fertilizer that's feeding the growth.

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(edited)

That would make you over here <<==========

 

He still needs to figure out the source of all the fertilizer that's feeding the growth.

No he doesn't, after he breaks this cycle it may be over.  My tank has gotten cycles of hair algae for decades, sometimes it goes a few years algae free and sometimes it comes back in 6 months.  Now it has been algae free for to long for me to remember  but it is a cycle and sometimes it comes for no reason that we "know".  No, it is not the nutrients alone as my nitrates are 40 and I have high phosphorites and absolutely no algae, not even in my algae trough.  That is why I do not like to get into these algae threads because they are IMO all wrong.  I don't know the answer, but neither does anyone else.  I am fairly sure I have been dealing with algae longer than Moses, OK maybe not, but at least fifty years.

OK I am done.  Time to go to dinner and have some great Merlot. :rolleyes:

Edited by paul b
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I disagree. If there's a net inflow of nutrients, something will grow to take up those nutrients to establish balance. It doesn't magically disappear unless it's food source disappears. You can let it grow until it becomes self limiting, but it does not go away until 1) you stop fertilizing it or 2) it's out-competed or 3) it's consumed faster than it grows (it's still there, though) . I guess you could also turn the lights out or use an herbicide that interferes with uptake.

 

 

 

(Sent from my phone)

 

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Aren't you glad you got that refractometer?

Yes. It does the job it's intended to do and does it reliably, accurately, inexpensively, simply and well :lol:

 

(Sent from my phone)

 

 

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In reality, the source water could be the issue. You cannot take for granted that because the water comes from a vendor that it is TDS free. There have been many instances where someone was buying r/o water that was full of solids or was de-chlorinated tap water. Start with the water source first. My advice is to eliminate the vendor bought water and buy a big jug of Deer Park or other commercially available purified water source.

Get rid of the chemicals that you are using since they don't really work as intended and scrub away the algae by hand. IF this were a large stable system, I might agree with Paul about no water changes, but since it's a small tank, I'd do a 10% weekly change to keep trace elements replenished. This process is easy but you'll have to get your hands wet.

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In reality, the source water could be the issue. You cannot take for granted that because the water comes from a vendor that it is TDS free. There have been many instances where someone was buying r/o water that was full of solids or was de-chlorinated tap water. Start with the water source first. My advice is to eliminate the vendor bought water and buy a big jug of Deer Park or other commercially available purified water source.

Get rid of the chemicals that you are using since they don't really work as intended and scrub away the algae by hand. IF this were a large stable system, I might agree with Paul about no water changes, but since it's a small tank, I'd do a 10% weekly change to keep trace elements replenished. This process is easy but you'll have to get your hands wet.

Agreed. Checking the source water was advised earlier. Harvest the algae to export nutrients. This also allows competition to establish itself. Add CUC for further control. In other words, understand and control sources. And encourage and add competitors / consumers. That's how you find balance.

 

(Sent from my phone)

 

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 IF this were a large stable system, I might agree with Paul about no water changes, but since it's a small tank, I'd do a 10% weekly change to keep trace elements replenished. This process is easy but you'll have to get your hands wet.

That no water changes is just temporary until the algae is gone, not meant to be forever.

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