Djplus1

As long as the temps are adjustable and you don't have weird stuff in the lines that can't be cleaned out I think it would "work" The main issue is if it's suitable for marine conditions I would assume.

I guess it's off to get a test kit. I'm not bothering to test for about a month anyway and I'm sure the tank will have probably cycled by then.

Well, this goes back to the original question. Are my expired API tests most likely fine for nitrites/nitrates?

Wow, you're really talking to my lazy side, lol. I've actually never used one. Is it really safe to assume that once ammonia is at proper levels I can just add some fish without nitrite/trate tests? I will be in Rockville today, is this something that Congressional or Petco will have on the shelf?

So this is going to come off as a total newb question, but since the move a couple years ago I've had most of my test kits in the garage. I realize most (if not all) need to be trashed, but do you guys think that I can get away with using the API test kit that I brought inside with the tank to test the cycle of the old trusty Red Sea Max. Obviously will get the fancier stuff when I have it up and running, but I never tested trates, trites, ammonia, PH etc once the tank was up and running. Water has been in for a few days now and I'm dosing AquaVitro seed to kickstart the cycle.

Well the Home Depot one worked fine. Apparently had plenty of PSI before the pump and have 90 PSI with the booster. Faster water I guess.

OK, I'm almost back in. I just got my RODI set up. it's the https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-75gpd-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.htmlwith the 150gpd water saver kit installed on top. I assume that the pressure may be a hair low so I am connecting up my booster pump, but the gauge doesn't seem to pick up anything. It is one of these https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/air-filled-pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html I haven't used this RODI in a couple years so is it likely that the gauge is "gummed up" and can be used again or do I need to get a new one? And does anybody have experience just picking up the gauge itself from Home Depot and attaching it to the fitting?

Not to make light of a sad situation, but when my wife saw it she basically immediately told me to hurry up and start a new tank, lol.

I'd definitely like the layout to match the light I have, so I need to figure out what Reefbreeders used for the 48" as there is a difference between the layout of the it2060 and the photon 24 apparently. Are these fixtures all the same size front to back? Especially the "new" versions? Mine is 8.5".

Is there a 24" Evergrow that is effectively the exact same as the Reefbreeders 24 photon? I know that Reefbreeders sets up there colors a certain way stock. Of course, it's discontinued so I'd have to pick up used or buy a more common Evergrow model if it's capable of the same programming to match the 48" I have.

How likely would I be able to sync the programming of the 24" photon to the 48"? I just wouldn't want 1/3 of the tank on one side not looking like the other 2/3.

My mistake, I was looking at other sizes also. As it turns out the 180 is actually about 2" deeper than the 125.

I didn't think about the Kessils. Thats not a bad idea. I just didn't feel like letting my fixture go to waste while also buying three smaller units.

I'm considering (in pseudo planning stages) of installing a tank in the wall of my basement, using the utility room as a fish room as there is plenty of piping to tap into if needed and a utility sink if not. I have about 7 feet of length I can cut out of the wall (stupid metal support post prevents a clean 8 feet) This tank would only be view able from the front. What are the pro's and con's of a 125 vs 180 other than the obvious? ie the 125 being deeper requiring stronger lighting or the 180 requiring more maintenance since it has greater water volume. Mainly thinking swimming space (for Tangs) and aquascaping (for a minimalist mixed reef) concerns. My goal is to pick up one of these on the cheap in the next few months when someone breaks down and to re use most of my equipment from my previous tank(s). Secondary question: Will my Reefbreeders 48" Photon be enough light on a 6 ft tank if I'm not planning on placing corals on the ends? I have the stock colors and optics. Any other ideas are welcome!

I would think water temps would be more of an issue perhaps?

So are you suggesting that provided it's not sitting on the ground for a long time and is pretty much immediately wiped up, I shouldn't see crumbling floors. My main concern is splashing behind the tank that I may not see and/ or reach and that turning into a problem eventually.

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s650/djplus11/IMAG0078_zpspwf0xoij.jpg As you can see in the pic, there already is a "stain" on the stained concrete, lol from the previous owners. Now that I moved in, it doesn't appear to be "polished", just stained and sealed. My concern is less with the discoloration, but the crumbling of the concrete itself, when assaulted by saltwater from leaks, spills, etc. Talk to most about using salt on their concrete sidewalks and you'll generally hear that the concrete started crumbling into a huge mess. Definitely DONT want that in the house.

I used a bucket head for draining other kind of tanks and it fills the 5 gallons in like 30 seconds. It's a real shop vac that just happens to sit on a 5 gallon bucket. Cheap enough that you can buy one for reef only and not worry about getting contaminants from other cleanups in your system.

Thinking about setting up the RSM in the basement. Still curious about any real world experience anyone has with saltwater and stained concrete. I know that salt water swimming pool decks are usually sealed with a special sealer to prevent damage, but they are under constant splashing,etc. I don't want my floors breaking apart after a few months of water change splash over.

Thanks Scott. You're an "officer", where should I list this stuff? As a getting out thread on the "General Discussion" or keep it all in the "For Sale" section? Just don't want to miss out on buyers that aren't paying members over the next 30 days or so.

Hopefully will get appraisal result today or tomorrow. If all goes well, right after that.

So I assume that a bunch here have had to deal with the hassle of selling off set ups for whatever reason. And barring a poor appraisal or the place catching fire, I will be moving in a month to Sykesville. Not worth trying to transport livestock with the weather being cold and moving duties and probably a good opportunity to take a break. The question I have is what is the best order to sell livestock? My concerns are trying to sell someone a fish that I can't catch easily. Is it better to try to sell off a bunch of corals, liverock and corals attached to liverock first, and then have a nice open space to catch the fish, or is this going to somehow be bad news for the fish? Clearly tanks and equipment go last, so I've got that down. Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated.

pressure washer

Appreciate all of the answers. Either way, I'm def selling the 72 gallon bow and sump and most pumps, etc. Got alot of small gear that I might keep just because they're small, but also because I don't want to go out and buy stuff like dosers again when I have them BNIB. Probably selling the 14g Biocube unless it just makes more sense to keep it for future use as it's also pretty easy to move. Considering keeping the LED's for a while as I saved the shipping box and that's easily reusable.

Just curious if anyone here has decorative polished and/or stained concrete floors with a tank? Is there any problems with concrete finish damage?