Jump to content

My 220 gallon rebuild


MBVette

Recommended Posts

Dunno. I'm not the expert, but I'd say not really safe since its presence at all indicates one of a few choices. One would be that you're getting an errant reading on the test, one would be that there's something dead in there which keeps generating ammonia as it rots, one would be that the bacteria that is supposed to be processing it isn't doing it's job for whatever reason. If the ammonia is really sticking around with nothing in the tank it almost seems like it's not cycled.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 346
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The tank looks great and nice cabinet and rock work. The water line doesn't look bad at all to me.

 

Yes you can add the fish but just keep dosing the Prime every other day to make sure the bond on the ammonia stays in place. I would re-dose some bacteria to help the process along.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've read that Prime binds ammonia and will "detoxify" it, but it doesn't really remove it, so it will show up on a test. Seems like Stability should get rid of it, though, since it's bacteria, right?

Prime binds up ammonia in a non-toxic form until your biological filtration removes it. It will confound ammonia tests until it's removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scott, it's looking awesome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice! As far as the waterline, you may try to lower the cabinet door by shiming the hinges or changing their mounting position on the door itself...really depends on how much overlap is at the top of the cabinet door and the type of hinge used...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So in a week I didnt produce as much skimmate as I thought. I got about 1.5" of some stinky stuff, but the carbon avast put on the top makes it not noticeable.

 

skimmate-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So of course I came into work today to a ton of water through the lobby...

 

Winds up the float valve I recently setup for my brute trashcan failed and the can overflowed. So I got about 12 hours worth of rodi water on the floor. Luckily its mostly all vinyl flooring and a small room of carpet. But the carpet is just glued to the floor w/ no padding so I setup some fans and it should dry out.

 

Thats what I get for forgetting to turn the rodi off last night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not had a chance to take a look at it yet. For the most part I have just finished up mopping, there is still some seeping coming out from the carpet and under the walls (all floating walls and the sheetrock doesnt touch the floor) I will take a look at it a bit later.

 

I had not tested it all that well, all I did to test it was pull up on it to see if it shut the water off and it seemed to work fine then. But never had it tested when the can was full.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I think I figured out what it was and it is my fault. The can didnt overflow, it was coming out the the hole where the float valve is drilled into. So the valve worked, but I didnt screw where the hose goes into the valve tight enough so when it hit the pressure of the closed valve it leaked right back out of the bucket instead of just shutting if off. If that makes any sense

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yikes. I just received my RO/DI and float valve yesterday and was going to install it in my trash can today. Good thing for me to read right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry! I'm glad that there wasn't more damage. You probably don't want another insurance claim related to the tank, you know?

 

Is the RO/DI unit on a permanent installation? If so, consider putting a solenoid valve on the source feed. Using a 7-day electronic timer (or controller with similar capability), you can activate it only during work hours during weekdays so that the risk of this failure when nobody's around to notice a problem early is minimized. Done right, you can also use this technique to stretch the life of your DI resin by making fewer, larger batches of water, rather than a large number of smaller batches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have it run off of the plumbing, so its semi-perminent. I should be able to get the cord over to my apex, so I would be able to program . Is it worth it to get the heavy duty one, or for our purposes should I just get the regular one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have and use a regular solenoid. Quarter-inch fittings with cord. That's all they carried when I bought mine. I've been running it for about 3 years now and have had no issues at all. When it loses power, it fails in the closed position which is a nice safety feature for our hobby.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was actually just reading neptunes thread on RC, and I guess they are going to be coming out with their own waterbug. They announced it at MACNA, so I might wait just a little bit to see if they come out with their own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the last week the tank has started to get a little cloudy and there is some really long hair algae now. Im going to get some turbos to combat the hair algae, but any idea what would make it start to get cloudy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...